Holeshot

I'm not talking about cones, I am talking about dedicated tracks or club lapping days. Why bother with the Racepak and everything else if it is just to be posed and never used. Seems like a waste to use it for a show car and that's it. To each his own.

IonNinja

lol oh I guess they are both hatches, whoops

yeah ur wifes car is pretty clean...diggin it

i agree though, you should road race it

Brian MP5T

I do not "Show" my car, Show Cars are ******* STUPID. Make a nice engine, Good Mods, then put 1000Lbs into the trunk, Lights, Paint, Just to trailer the car from hotel to hotel. **** THAT ****.

The Racepack was the only way that I could have a instrument cluster. The stock one was controlled by the ECU.. The ECU is currently in the farmers field across the street from my house ready to be tilled into the earth. (With all the stock wires)

http://www.calabogiemotorsports.com/...=43&Itemid=126

This track is available, but when I said it as a street legal go kart, I was trying to say that it is very fast in corners, and acceleration. It is gear limited to 200Km/h. 5th gear at 100 is 3 Grand, which is fine because what I normally do is accelerate hard to the limit and then just cruise. It's a hobby, to build and drive, then build...

Competitively, it is geared for a 1/4 mile perfectly, lapping on a short track or inside section it is also perfect, but anything that has a long high speed section is just beating up the car. It takes so little distance to achieve top speed that I either have to maintain near redline to get to the end, or drive like a pansy.

Either way, It was built to drive on the street. It does a ******* awesome job of doing just that.

Brian MP5T

******* SUCCESS!




I just hooked up the starter to verify that the Trigger and Home sensor work on the car.

If I had the Fuses in for the Coils and Injectors, it would have tried to start for real.

See Picture, Home Counter, Trigger Counter near Bottom Middle..

The 4 Home, means that the engine did 8 Revolutions or four full cycles.
The 255 Triggers is divided by 8 as 31 and some decimal. Which is fine because it should be around 245 - 280 (Due to when I stopped cranking the starter)

This means that the math that the ECU is doing, is exactly the math I was expecting.

The Cam gear modification work, a Reluctor sensor has a unique property, the signal becomes stronger as speed is increased. So if this low speed test has no trouble, then it will only get better when the car is actually running.

I am still waiting on a WBO2 controller to run the engine..

Holeshot

So have you run this thing at a 1/4 mile track? Have any times? Have you had the opportunity to run on any road courses? Shannonville would be good for your setup.

Brian MP5T

With a Shitty Extra injector controller and street tires it ran a 13.00 @ 105.

With proper EMS, the goal is 400-450 Whp.

Brian MP5T

No, the last time I ran it on a 1/4 mile was over 4 years ago. At that time it ran a 13.00 at 105.

The question was asked, "What is your best 1/4 Mile time"

I gave you my actual best run from the last time I brought it to a track in 2005, even if since then I have a fully built motor and went from 14 to 22 Psi.


-=-=-=-

Alright, things continue to improve.

Eric Gash at Haltech suggested I play with the Trigger Voltage Map.

I was able to get a totally perfect RPM signal every time, after an initial spike that i think will prove to be a systemic normal.

The final settings will be updated once the car is running well and I can confirm them.

I also spent about one hour making sure that all the timing settings are correct in the ECU. That the Home Occurs 5 teeth before the missing tooth. That the Tooth Offset is 3 and 66 Degrees (Based off measurements that I will verify with a timing light)

Here is a new screen shot.


Purple MAP.
Yellow Oil Pressure.
Green Fuel Pressure.
Tan Tachometer.

Holeshot

It's all about the tune, I am switching from Maf to Map sensor and now running a full AEM ems and ditched my other engine management software I was running.

Brian MP5T

I just got it to run (roughly) for about 47 seconds.

Full Sequential and Direct fire!

Waiting for the battery to charge up before I try again.

rico

god everytime i look at this thread i love the car more ahh

nicksredline

sorry dident want to read all pages any numbeers??

Brian MP5T

Read the last 2 pages..

It just fired up for the first time in 16 Months on a standalone ECU..

Brian MP5T

Made the car run off of the charge from my other with cables.

I have tried and failed to make the Mazda alternator control work so I am looking at the easy reliable solution.

On Monday I will contact an alternator shop to see if they have an alternator that has a regulator that is a direct fit, or if they can make this alternator run old school like normal. (Two Wires)

I am playing with the Prime Map and the Post start map now that I have a basic idea how much fuel the car needs to run, now I am making the car have the gas it needs to start automatically rather than me juicing with the trim.

An original 35% was reduced off the base map and now a further 26% was removed from the entire map. It's easy to do this in excel.

The car originally would not idle by itself and the idle motor was all the way open. I had to open the throttle a bit, I decided to open the throttle with the throttle stop..I originally adjusted the Throttle set screw way too much and the idle motor went to 0% duty with thre car still at 1400 RPM (No problem). Adjusted it several times very small adjustments and now the idle motor is actually doing what it should do perfectly. The idle bumps a bit between 950 and 1000 cold, and 750 to 800 warm. A slight pulse in the idle is the least of my concerns, but all the basic systems work fine. I had to clean my plugs which meant taking that plate off. It's easier to access the plugs than I thought. There are only two bolts that hold it in place and the wires are long, I can place the entire thing still connected to all the wires over the injectors on a clean rag.

Brian MP5T

Today I was able to install all three WBO2 sensors after getting a thread chaser to clean up the one that was never cleaned two years ago when it was welded and bolted shut with a cap.

So I activated the coolant temp map for the first time and applied the corrections that I was able to get with some experimenting with the overall trim.

The car started perfectly on the second revolution even when only 20 Deg C this morning and runs about 13.50 AFR. +- 0.25 AFR.

**** does it stink, but it sounds awesome to hear it running. I was happy to see that eventually all three AFR readouts were almost identical, I will calibrate them to read identical.

I have to trim that AFR back today, but I will probably run the car up to 50 Deg C,

(My engine does not have a thermostat so that is the normal operating temp, Fan kicks on at 45 and off at 40) and then level out the AFR with the base map, then go back and correct the Coolant and post start map.

The engine now totally holds 1000 RPM solid. I can see the Step motor position cycling up and down by +- 1 or 2 Steps after just 15 seconds of running. No oscillation at all in the idle even with the 550cc injectors likely due to the fuel being delivered upstream of air rushing into a cylinder, rather than pooling in the manifold.

Still waiting for the alternator, so I will probably move the front half of the car out of the garage and connect it to my other car for power. Even with the two dyno fans running on the radiator from outside, it's still too much inside the garage. I don't feel like killing myself with Carbon Monoxide just yet..

I'll try to nail down all the idle settings and the warm and cold start settings this morning.

I should get the alternator back on Wed, so I can take it to the street and start working on the higher RPM Stuff.

Brian MP5T

Doc

Nice...

Brian MP5T

Picked up some new intake parts today.

1 90 Deg bend for the throttle inlet. It is a reinforced silicon coupler that will not get totally damaged by the brake master cylinder like the aluminum will. Should also absorb some vibration. I have been getting tired of the Aluminum being weakened at the bend.

4 x 2.5" Hump couplers and clamps
4 x 2.0" Hump couplers and clamps

All in black. Should make the engine bay look better. I hate the blue ones that are currently on the car, this is the third time I have installed them and taken them off. They are fantastic quality, but I think color under the my hood looks like POOP.

Brian MP5T

Got the alternator back yesterday and after discussing it with the owner of the shop, if the "Sense" wire is turned off when the engine is still turning quickly, the regulator will see Zero Volts and try to increase output and pop diodes.

The ignition key on the protege has a couple of wires.

Two different constant Power from the Battery according to the diagram.
The first click turns on only Accessory, (Radio) but this turns off for cranking and returns.
The second click maintains Accessory, but also turns on Ignition (Haltech) This setting remains on during cranking.

It is important to make sure that the Haltech is on this one so it does not turn off every time you try to start the car.

Because the Sense wire on the alternator has to be live during cranking as well, I hooked it to this wire. But as soon as the key is switched off for the ECU, the Alternator which is still spinning quickly looses it's field and overloads until it stops spinning.

I have taken two relays.

Positive in From Battery are both together.
Both Positive from the relays are both going to the Sense wire.
The trigger grounds are grounded
One Trigger is tied to Accessory from the key
One Trigger is tied to Run from the key.

This way, when I switch off the car, the second relay will maintain the power, and during cranking the first relay will maintain the power.
It will be important to turn the key off one click and wait for the motor to stop before turning the key off fully and removing it.

Not a big deal. Almost nobody else drives my car except my wife.

SuperchargedSS

Thats some serious work man... nice.

Brian MP5T

UPDATE: Went For a Drive Just now.

Did some basic mapping around the block, then went for a drive down a straight 10Km road. (Farm Area)

Then finished off with a spurt on the highway.

No leaks yet, no problems and the spark plugs are probably looking normal again.

I will have a look at what was auto mapped with the WBO2 sensors and apply some small corrections!

The more I drive, the better it gets. AWESOME!

Brian MP5T

Brian MP5T

Here is the final version of the plate that holds the LS1 Coils.

Brian MP5T

With the Silicon 90 Degree bend, the aluminum does not hit the brake master cylinder anymore.
I no longer needed the pipe with the mandrel bend, Got a piece of 1/8" thick 2.5" Aluminum straight tube installed.
Took one hour to polish it to a mirror finish.



Coil plate is done, You can see how much thicker it is, 1/4" Aluminum.

Brian MP5T

******' Updates Yo...

Brian MP5T

Fog Light Delete Kit! Merci Shrews8..

http://www.toprotege.com/forums/member.php?u=5252

and a New Big ******* Poster. 36"x100"