High RPM clutch drag
#1
High RPM clutch drag
Drove the Cobalt for the first time since the last autocross event and it appears I ruined the synchronizer during high rpm 2-3 shifts because my clutch wasn't fully disengaging. I've never even seen what the synchronizers even look like but I have all the internals out of a Cavi F23 so I'm thinking I should be able to rob whatever I need from that.
What I am really trying to figure out here is if it may be possible to correct the clutch disengagement issue with a TOB spacer plate. Its a Clutch Masters stage 4 and I have had issues with it since day one. I took steps that vastly improved the situation, such as vacuum bleeding and adjustable slave cylinder engagement, but those obviously did not cure the issue completely.
What I am really trying to figure out here is if it may be possible to correct the clutch disengagement issue with a TOB spacer plate. Its a Clutch Masters stage 4 and I have had issues with it since day one. I took steps that vastly improved the situation, such as vacuum bleeding and adjustable slave cylinder engagement, but those obviously did not cure the issue completely.
#2
i have never seen an fx400 need a spacer and we measure every one that goes together here. They usually only have a 0.150" gap; if you used a spacer you'd be in permanent neutral.
Master cylinder issues, worn clutch pedals are the next most likely culprit. I've also seen bent disks from people struggling to put the trans back in, which causes drag.
Master cylinder issues, worn clutch pedals are the next most likely culprit. I've also seen bent disks from people struggling to put the trans back in, which causes drag.
#3
Worn clutch pedal? What would that do?
When I put it back in it slid on easily but I supposed there's a possibility it caught and warped before the splines lined up.
.
If I do the clutch disengagement test by revving the engine up with the clutch pedal depressed the clutch will start to grab about 7,200-7,500.
I'd gladly replace master cylinder. I just don't want to throw a bunch of time and parts at it and still have the same stupid problem.
When I put it back in it slid on easily but I supposed there's a possibility it caught and warped before the splines lined up.
.
If I do the clutch disengagement test by revving the engine up with the clutch pedal depressed the clutch will start to grab about 7,200-7,500.
I'd gladly replace master cylinder. I just don't want to throw a bunch of time and parts at it and still have the same stupid problem.
#4
the socket in the back of the clutch pedal can get worn out over time. It seems somewhat random though. Ive seen several that were completely shot, making the master engagement sloppy. but the one in my personal car has over 250,000 miles on it and is still fine.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post