Middle of a Rebuilding a Crashed Balt
02-23-2017, 12:41 PM
#26
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02-23-2017, 12:41 PM
#27
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When your not making boost, your making vacuum, that's perfectly normal. It will only make boost when you stomp on the throttle.
FYI, that boost gauge I got, you have to run a hose (supplied in the kit) through the firewall and into the vacuum line coming out of the manifold after the sc. The only reason I haven't put my boost gauge in yet is because I need to get under the car to get access to the grommet between the clutch and brake pedal. That's the only grommet I can find that is reasonably accessible from the interior side. Also, Autometer makes a bunch of different mechanical gauges so have a look at what one best suits you. I went with the z-series because you can change the color of the light (I'm using a green LED to match my green Aeroforce gauges) and I wanted one with a black bezel, again, to match the black bezels on my Aeroforce gauges.
Can't really help you on the lowering kit. I'm at stock ride height and I scrape my valence going into my driveway. If I want to lower the car I need to go air so I can lift the car up to get it up the slope. When the time comes Airlift makes a set of airbags I'll use. But I need to find out why they claim it doesn't fit the SS models in the rear. Airlift apparently doesn't answer their e-mails.
Go do some reading through the Suspension section, you'll learn a lot there.
106,000km, mine will hit 338,000km this weekend (210,000 miles)
FYI, that boost gauge I got, you have to run a hose (supplied in the kit) through the firewall and into the vacuum line coming out of the manifold after the sc. The only reason I haven't put my boost gauge in yet is because I need to get under the car to get access to the grommet between the clutch and brake pedal. That's the only grommet I can find that is reasonably accessible from the interior side. Also, Autometer makes a bunch of different mechanical gauges so have a look at what one best suits you. I went with the z-series because you can change the color of the light (I'm using a green LED to match my green Aeroforce gauges) and I wanted one with a black bezel, again, to match the black bezels on my Aeroforce gauges.
Can't really help you on the lowering kit. I'm at stock ride height and I scrape my valence going into my driveway. If I want to lower the car I need to go air so I can lift the car up to get it up the slope. When the time comes Airlift makes a set of airbags I'll use. But I need to find out why they claim it doesn't fit the SS models in the rear. Airlift apparently doesn't answer their e-mails.
Go do some reading through the Suspension section, you'll learn a lot there.
106,000km, mine will hit 338,000km this weekend (210,000 miles)
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WillisW (02-23-2017)
02-23-2017, 12:48 PM
#28
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When your not making boost, your making vacuum, that's perfectly normal. It will only make boost when you stomp on the throttle.
FYI, that boost gauge I got, you have to run a hose (supplied in the kit) through the firewall and t into the vacuum line coming out of the manifold after the sc. The only reason I haven't put my boost gauge in yet is because I need to get under the car to get access to the grommet between the clutch and brake pedal. That's the only grommet I can find that is reasonably accessible from the interior side. Also, Autometer makes a bunch of different mechanical gauges so have a look at what one best suits you. I went with the z-series because you can change the color of the light (I'm using a green LED to match my green Aeroforce gauges) and I wanted one with a black bezel, again, to match the black bezels on my Aeroforce gauges.
Can't really help you on the lowering kit. I'm at stock ride height and I scrape my valence going into my driveway. If I want to lower the car I need to go air so I can lift the car up to get it up the slope. When the time comes Airlift makes a set of airbags I'll use. But I need to find out why they claim it doesn't fit the SS models in the rear. Airlift apparently doesn't answer their e-mails.
Go do some reading through the Suspension section, you'll learn a lot there.
FYI, that boost gauge I got, you have to run a hose (supplied in the kit) through the firewall and t into the vacuum line coming out of the manifold after the sc. The only reason I haven't put my boost gauge in yet is because I need to get under the car to get access to the grommet between the clutch and brake pedal. That's the only grommet I can find that is reasonably accessible from the interior side. Also, Autometer makes a bunch of different mechanical gauges so have a look at what one best suits you. I went with the z-series because you can change the color of the light (I'm using a green LED to match my green Aeroforce gauges) and I wanted one with a black bezel, again, to match the black bezels on my Aeroforce gauges.
Can't really help you on the lowering kit. I'm at stock ride height and I scrape my valence going into my driveway. If I want to lower the car I need to go air so I can lift the car up to get it up the slope. When the time comes Airlift makes a set of airbags I'll use. But I need to find out why they claim it doesn't fit the SS models in the rear. Airlift apparently doesn't answer their e-mails.
Go do some reading through the Suspension section, you'll learn a lot there.
its starting to annoy me
02-23-2017, 12:53 PM
#29
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I had to replace both my tweeters. They were toast. Snapped crackled and popped more than a bowl of rice crispies!
Fortunately a friend of mine had some kicking around. Last time he needed tweeters he bought a bulk order of 100. He'll never need to buy another tweeter his whole life.
Fortunately a friend of mine had some kicking around. Last time he needed tweeters he bought a bulk order of 100. He'll never need to buy another tweeter his whole life.
02-23-2017, 12:58 PM
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I had to replace both my tweeters. They were toast. Snapped crackled and popped more than a bowl of rice crispies!
Fortunately a friend of mine had some kicking around. Last time he needed tweeters he bought a bulk order of 100. He'll never need to buy another tweeter his whole life.
Fortunately a friend of mine had some kicking around. Last time he needed tweeters he bought a bulk order of 100. He'll never need to buy another tweeter his whole life.
02-23-2017, 01:10 PM
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02-23-2017, 01:24 PM
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I got an aftermarket radio that's been sitting around for I think 2 years or something an I can't figure out what brand it is I think it's from Europe cause that's what the radio region was set for lol been trying to make it work
02-23-2017, 02:20 PM
#40
JD yeah I've looked it up since you recommended it. Sounds like a damn good deal. Be nice to get some brand new suspension...I mean mine has got 142xxKM in rear and 9000km in the front, but still. New is always nicer
02-23-2017, 02:25 PM
#41
Willis you want a good stereo with bluetooth cd and auxiliary get a JVC KDR780BT. I have a 720 and the one im talkig about is bascially the 720's big sister stereo
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1QfBo1...KD-R780BT.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1QfBo1...KD-R780BT.html
Last edited by COBALTace; 02-23-2017 at 02:26 PM. Reason: Added link for stereo
02-23-2017, 02:30 PM
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Willis you want a good stereo with bluetooth cd and auxiliary get a JVC KDR780BT. I have a 720 and the one im talkig about is bascially the 720's big sister stereo
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1QfBo1...KD-R780BT.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1QfBo1...KD-R780BT.html
02-23-2017, 02:39 PM
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okay how is the corning does the suspension properly lower to pull around the corner?
02-23-2017, 02:46 PM
#45
Trust me it will be a lot of time and Advil saved if you bought a new radio. My friend had a problem with something if a similar sort. He bought some radio from Texas and since his car is Canadian it wouldnt work and wouldnt work. Ended up having to take t to the dealer and they sent it to god knows where Mexcio for the trained GM monkeys to work on it. Long story short he got charged close to 200$ for it and ended up goig and getting a stereo installed at our local Aftermarket car parts storefor close to 500$! When the dealer had his car they traced the loom entirely back to the amp in the rear deck and messed around & cut-probed wires with a voltmeter to see what was dead that they ended up blowing his amplifer. So he had to get them to send away for one for 100 dollars
all I remember other than that is him being so POed the next night out at the camp he broke a beer bottle wih his bare hand :')
all I remember other than that is him being so POed the next night out at the camp he broke a beer bottle wih his bare hand :')
Last edited by COBALTace; 02-23-2017 at 02:48 PM. Reason: Re read the article and it looked like i was drunk. Fixed some crap
02-23-2017, 04:52 PM
#46
I would argue these springs are superior, performance wise, to any other aftermarket spring on the market for our cars. A ton of time effort testing and research went into designing these springs. They aren't made with the primary goal of lowering the car but for a nearly uncompromising optimization of ride comfort and performance. If performance is priority then these springs are the right choice.
02-23-2017, 06:14 PM
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I would argue these springs are superior, performance wise, to any other aftermarket spring on the market for our cars. A ton of time effort testing and research went into designing these springs. They aren't made with the primary goal of lowering the car but for a nearly uncompromising optimization of ride comfort and performance. If performance is priority then
these springs are the right choice.
these springs are the right choice.
02-23-2017, 06:17 PM
#49
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Trust me it will be a lot of time and Advil saved if you bought a new radio. My friend had a problem with something if a similar sort. He bought some radio from Texas and since his car is Canadian it wouldnt work and wouldnt work. Ended up having to take t to the dealer and they sent it to god knows where Mexcio for the trained GM monkeys to work on it. Long story short he got
charged close to 200$ for it and ended up goig
and getting a stereo installed at our local
Aftermarket car parts storefor close to 500$!
When the dealer had his car they traced the
loom entirely back to the amp in the rear deck
and messed around & cut-probed wires with a
voltmeter to see what was dead that they ended
up blowing his amplifer. So he had to get them
to send away for one for 100 dollars
all I remember other than that is him being so POed the next night out at the camp he broke a beer bottle wih his bare hand :')
charged close to 200$ for it and ended up goig
and getting a stereo installed at our local
Aftermarket car parts storefor close to 500$!
When the dealer had his car they traced the
loom entirely back to the amp in the rear deck
and messed around & cut-probed wires with a
voltmeter to see what was dead that they ended
up blowing his amplifer. So he had to get them
to send away for one for 100 dollars
all I remember other than that is him being so POed the next night out at the camp he broke a beer bottle wih his bare hand :')
got sound logic lol just had the radio checked out an the radio installer said specifically that it can't run high output audio which is the tweeters so it's a good paper weight basically I'm getting a different head unit now going with a Kenwood or jvc something with high quality out put
02-23-2017, 06:18 PM
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