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Car will not start at all. No dash light except securit which always comes on, but the car isnt showing the brake is on, no IML, my ABS light has been on. None of them show. Fuel pump isnt turning on at key on either. There are two wires in the BCM that have been rewired it appears with no inline fuse. Has the same two wires pictured rewired as another member with no start (mine are taped no fuse) But with wiggle or anything still no dash light. Ecm communicates with OBD
Havent got to put a multi on the battery yet, but lights are bright and the car was just running. Went to crank it nothing. No door chime, no pump prime, no lights except the security for a second then it goes off.
UPDATE: Jumped the taped wire on the left (pic above) to the ecm/tcm fuse (25 on bcm) as I saw in the shared image and another video, car starts right up everything works. How do I find the fault to actually fix it without the temporary jumper fix?
Im getting no power to the pink wire. ECM/TCM is constant hot, and allows everything to work when jumped to pink. Installed switch and all works. Car will not shut off by key. Does anyone know where this pink wire comes from?
I had no power to the IP fuse, nor almost any on the bottom of the fuse block. Key on, only the theft light would show. I found the pink wire out of the fuse to a grommet above the slave, and inside it had been slipced there too it appeared. There was a piece of bare wire wrapped around the wire. Retaped it. The car wouldn't start even with the switch after i wiggled the wire. I will take a picture of this wire when I get home. So fuse 16 blew and the tcm fuse blew when i flicked the switch, but I had the switch on an add a fuse. So I pulled the add a fuse, fresh tcm fuse and hvac/btsi/cluster. Turn key, lights come on blow fuse 16 instantly. I blew about 5 10 amps tried a 15 and it everything worked as should. But I feel like there's excessive draw on the circuit or one of those splices may have hit metal or something and grounded out? But everything works just fine with the 15 amp in. Power everywhere it should be. Just haven't got specific resistance to test or some way to find where it may be drawing extra
I had no power to the IP fuse, nor almost any on the bottom of the fuse block. Key on, only the theft light would show. I found the pink wire out of the fuse to a grommet above the slave, and inside it had been slipced there too it appeared. There was a piece of bare wire wrapped around the wire. Retaped it. The car wouldn't start even with the switch after i wiggled the wire. I will take a picture of this wire when I get home. So fuse 16 blew and the tcm fuse blew when i flicked the switch, but I had the switch on an add a fuse. So I pulled the add a fuse, fresh tcm fuse and hvac/btsi/cluster. Turn key, lights come on blow fuse 16 instantly. I blew about 5 10 amps tried a 15 and it everything worked as should. But I feel like there's excessive draw on the circuit or one of those splices may have hit metal or something and grounded out? But everything works just fine with the 15 amp in. Power everywhere it should be. Just haven't got specific resistance to test or some way to find where it may be drawing extra
It looks like you added some wiring. I'd try removing everything aftermarket and see what happens.
Modern cars can be very sensitive to voltages and such.
The wires in the top pic of OP are from another thread of another member. The bottom pic of OP is my BCM as I found it. Where I'm identifying the pink wire, yes, I added a jumper
All of that has been removed and the car starts with a 15 amp fuse in #16. The problem here is finding out why. Something is causing extra draw, and I just bought the car a couple weeks ago, so dont know it in and out just yet
The car done the same thing today on the way to get some beer for me and the old man. Went into eng pwr red, I turned it off, no start no click. Drug it home, thought I was gonna have it towed tomorrow and get this sorted. Well I seen one more thing where a guy grounded his pcm. I pulled the pcm and noticed a cut ground I assume attached to it. I pulled a piece of 18g I had, remover the cut piece and terminal and ran it from the pcm to the strut tower and all works as should, and no more 15 amp in the BCM. Works with the 10 as it should. Fingers crosses its solved once and for all.
09-27-2018, 09:19 PM
