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Rear wheel bearing seized

Old 06-08-2018, 04:50 PM
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Wink Rear wheel bearing seized

Hi there I've dropped slightly the rear trailing arms, removed the rear spring, shock, and all the brake junk, as well as the four nuts that hold on the aluminum bearing. Next, I soaked the trapezoid shaped piece in penetrating fluid, but it's rusted on nicely. I tried hammering from behind the hub on two of the four bolts with a regular claw hammer, but no progress, and I don't have the leverage or the swing to hit it with very much force. So I'm waiting right now for the penetrating fluid to take effect, and I've also hammered on a chisel around the trapezoid piece to get off all the old rust.

So now, what do I do? Option 1, spark up the torch; Option 2 wait for the penetrating fluid to set in; Option 3 stop cheaping out and buy a sledge, then whack it, or Option 4, take off the whole assembly, admit defeat, and take it to a shop so a pro can remove the bearing piece from the rest (I really don't enjoy admitting defeat).

Option 4 might happen because the trapezoid looks to be a cast aluminum (but it isn't it's steel - duh - should've known from the weight and the fact that aluminum isn't as strong), which should oxidize white, but instead, the oxidation is rust colored brown at the junction of the bearing trapezoid with the backing plate (steel), which is weird (not really weird when you figure out it's steel again duh). I suspect the difficulty is partly because of the two different metals oxidizing together to form a perfect bond.

I guess there's also an Option 5 which would be to try to wedge my 12" chisel in between the trapezoid and the steel backing plate and slam it with the hammer, deforming the plate, but I worry about damaging the plate - I don't mind damaging the old bearing of course. But I'd rather keep my replacement parts costs down.

Or should I start drinking and phone Mommy? <wink>

What do you guys think - any tricks from the pros?

Last edited by OhSixBalt; 06-10-2018 at 01:02 PM.
Old 06-08-2018, 05:27 PM
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Ok I've got it - sorry for the bandwidth - for future reference, the answer is, apply a torch, and you have to pony up and get right under the car to get the angle needed for a full swing, and be mindful of the brake lines that lead to the wheel, then whack hard on the two bolts that protrude. The rest of the job is, well, almost as easy as taking out the front seat.

Yay. Now I'll clean and paint up the trailing arm, and the plate, a nice fresh coat of black rust paint, so everything looks purdy. Done.

I'm going to run out now and get some blue threadlocker loctite, hoping it's as good as the 277 stuff which I can't find in town right now.


Last edited by OhSixBalt; 06-10-2018 at 02:08 PM. Reason: picture
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