AEM CAI Magnaflow Catback Stage 2 Dyno Results
AEM CAI Magnaflow Catback Stage 2 Dyno Results
Well here they are, I'm a little disappointed I was hoping for a little higher but they said to come back when its not so hot. The thermometer said 91, but SAE should correct for temperature anyways right?
227.71 hp and 204.38 tq

Click to enlarge
And here are some search terms to help anyone who might try to search for results in the future: Magnaflow 2.5" Catback AEM Cold Air Intake CAI Stage 2 Dyno Results Graphs
227.71 hp and 204.38 tq
Click to enlarge
And here are some search terms to help anyone who might try to search for results in the future: Magnaflow 2.5" Catback AEM Cold Air Intake CAI Stage 2 Dyno Results Graphs
Dynojet, on the plus side I did get to see the owners 670whp Supra. That was kinda nice. I got vids and damn is the blower loud. I would post them, but streetfire has millions, so people have seen them all.
No, I don't have HPTuners, but I see around 15psi normally. The other night it was around 15.5psi. Yeah i figured I should have at least been in the 230's with stage 2. I asked if their dyno was known for being stingy and they said they didn't think so. They said no other Cobalts have been dyno'd there that they can remember.
No, I don't have HPTuners, but I see around 15psi normally. The other night it was around 15.5psi. Yeah i figured I should have at least been in the 230's with stage 2. I asked if their dyno was known for being stingy and they said they didn't think so. They said no other Cobalts have been dyno'd there that they can remember.
not in the real world. to make 245 whp in an ss s/c you need a 2.9" pulley or smaller. the 3.1" pulley from stage 2 isn't gonna get it done.
Last edited by chevysalesman614; May 1, 2007 at 06:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
So if i go on a day when its not 90 out do you think it would affect the corrected numbers, or do you think correction is accurate enough to be correct? Yeah, I'd be interested in getting a nice tune as Im sure I'd see some improvement but I don't want to void warranty any suggestions on that?
freaing ****.. was about to wonder why it took this freaking long for this to be said.. dynos are for tuning.. put the car on the track and lets see times.. then we will know what your real power is.
When i dynod this past November it was 72 degrees outside with no humidity and with just an S2, stock everything else right down to the air box, i put down a best of 229.02 whp and 213.07 wtq both on my third run. Actually it was my 4th since he lost signal on the plug wires during the 3rd, so i got another freebie. My A/F looks like a ****** ski slope during summer time. It was just a tailpipe sniffer but still..... This was on a dynojet and i was slightly disappointed. I really wanted 235-240 at the wheels. The way it was explained to me is that the advertised 246 is at the crank and compensate for a 15% average drive train loss, this equals about 209 to the wheels. It was BS since there are stock SS/SC's putting down the numbers i got.
First of all i dynoed my car stock and after i installed stage 2. I had the airbox mod when i ran both time, and also prothane trans mounts. I have an AEM uego for monitoring af's. It dips down into the 10's no problem on the street/dyno
Top one uncorrected is stage 2, bottom is before stage 2....

Here's a chart corrected, again before and after.... same stage 2 on top, stock on bottom...

Now here's one of the charts(not sure if it's corrected on uncorrected, doesn't really matter) but look at from about 5k on, the chart gets really irrregular. I'd like to find out why and correct it in hopes of seeing more gains....

Sorry to steal you're post, but i was really dissapointed with these numbers, my car ran really strong stock, as you can see by the stock dyno. I haven't pulled the plugs, but it is my next step. Anybody have any suggestions on what could be going on??
-Scott
Top one uncorrected is stage 2, bottom is before stage 2....

Here's a chart corrected, again before and after.... same stage 2 on top, stock on bottom...

Now here's one of the charts(not sure if it's corrected on uncorrected, doesn't really matter) but look at from about 5k on, the chart gets really irrregular. I'd like to find out why and correct it in hopes of seeing more gains....

Sorry to steal you're post, but i was really dissapointed with these numbers, my car ran really strong stock, as you can see by the stock dyno. I haven't pulled the plugs, but it is my next step. Anybody have any suggestions on what could be going on??
-Scott
Its actually a cop-out explanation.
That 246 is rated at the crank. Take into account for a 15% drivetrain loss (about 37hp) and you are left with about 209. 209 is what you should see (according to GM's philosophy) at the wheels with a stage 2 installed. Since we see much more than that, GM's response is - well we estimated 246 at the crank and you are getting 229 at the wheels that equivicates to about 270 crank hp. 270 * .15 = about 40. 270-40 (15% drivetrain loss) = 230 whp.
That 246 is rated at the crank. Take into account for a 15% drivetrain loss (about 37hp) and you are left with about 209. 209 is what you should see (according to GM's philosophy) at the wheels with a stage 2 installed. Since we see much more than that, GM's response is - well we estimated 246 at the crank and you are getting 229 at the wheels that equivicates to about 270 crank hp. 270 * .15 = about 40. 270-40 (15% drivetrain loss) = 230 whp.
**for original poster***
all depends on what u dynoed stock on that exact same dyno, every dyno reads different. the operator can make the dyno read how he wants, so unless u dynoed before on that same dyno i would say it looks good, do you feel a difference?
*********
doent look like they did a reflash on it personally, something is tweaked, looks like u did how ever pick up a nice consistant power through out the entire power band so thats a good sign and thats what u should be looking for not just peak numbers.
all depends on what u dynoed stock on that exact same dyno, every dyno reads different. the operator can make the dyno read how he wants, so unless u dynoed before on that same dyno i would say it looks good, do you feel a difference?
*********
First of all i dynoed my car stock and after i installed stage 2. I had the airbox mod when i ran both time, and also prothane trans mounts. I have an AEM uego for monitoring af's. It dips down into the 10's no problem on the street/dyno
Top one uncorrected is stage 2, bottom is before stage 2....

Here's a chart corrected, again before and after.... same stage 2 on top, stock on bottom...

Now here's one of the charts(not sure if it's corrected on uncorrected, doesn't really matter) but look at from about 5k on, the chart gets really irrregular. I'd like to find out why and correct it in hopes of seeing more gains....

Sorry to steal you're post, but i was really dissapointed with these numbers, my car ran really strong stock, as you can see by the stock dyno. I haven't pulled the plugs, but it is my next step. Anybody have any suggestions on what could be going on??
-Scott
Top one uncorrected is stage 2, bottom is before stage 2....

Here's a chart corrected, again before and after.... same stage 2 on top, stock on bottom...

Now here's one of the charts(not sure if it's corrected on uncorrected, doesn't really matter) but look at from about 5k on, the chart gets really irrregular. I'd like to find out why and correct it in hopes of seeing more gains....

Sorry to steal you're post, but i was really dissapointed with these numbers, my car ran really strong stock, as you can see by the stock dyno. I haven't pulled the plugs, but it is my next step. Anybody have any suggestions on what could be going on??
-Scott

Last edited by Eddie; May 2, 2007 at 12:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
the fisrt picture is the setting set at uncorected setting from run run 2 stock to run 5 whit the stage 5 it only show 1 whp diference because if you look closely in the temputure of the air, in-hg and humidity
that beying the case the car didnt make more power at the wheel because these were diferent because it dont use the reading of temputure of the air, in-hg and humidity were not used in the final calculation of the hp and tq
that why when i post dynogragh i always set them a sae it could be a hot day or a could day or the other reding can be diferent but if there nothing changed in the car setting
it should see the same whp
the second picture is at sae setting and it the same run as the fisrt picture but corection setting set at sae and it show 11 whp difereance between stock and stage 2
if the poeple dont know how to used the dyno or give you diferent setting from one day to the other or compare other cars to other whit diferent setting how can you compare one to the other
i could have had the car that made the run 2 on the graph that was stock and show you a uncoredted seeting that it made 236 whp and the other guy come over and i give him run 5 whit the stage 2 and put his corection to sae and he only made 229 whp
well i guest my car stock made 6 whp more than the the stage 2
ps dont beleive what you all read on the net and make sure whe you look at the dyno grahp that they have the setting set at sae this way here they cant increase the numbers
sae stting will ad hp when it will be to hot out side and take out hp when it to cold to give the same number at what ever temputure it is, same for location you could be in the desert or up in the north pole or at sea level or at mount everest it should give you the same number whin in a few hp 1 to 2
uncoreted hp setting i have sean as much as 15 to 30 whp more on a 200 whp car when it cold out this is great for braging right
and for the dyno man showing better numbers on the dyno i cant increase the number other that changing the the setting fot the corection factors other than that dyno dont lie
it could read a bit diferent for dyno to dyno but when the car is tested on the same dyno it will show you if you gain or lost
dyno will save you alot of track time instgead of making alot of run i know i have been drag ring for almost 15 year
but when fininsh on the dyno i still fine tune on the track to get it perfect
that beying the case the car didnt make more power at the wheel because these were diferent because it dont use the reading of temputure of the air, in-hg and humidity were not used in the final calculation of the hp and tq
that why when i post dynogragh i always set them a sae it could be a hot day or a could day or the other reding can be diferent but if there nothing changed in the car setting
it should see the same whp
the second picture is at sae setting and it the same run as the fisrt picture but corection setting set at sae and it show 11 whp difereance between stock and stage 2
if the poeple dont know how to used the dyno or give you diferent setting from one day to the other or compare other cars to other whit diferent setting how can you compare one to the other
i could have had the car that made the run 2 on the graph that was stock and show you a uncoredted seeting that it made 236 whp and the other guy come over and i give him run 5 whit the stage 2 and put his corection to sae and he only made 229 whp
well i guest my car stock made 6 whp more than the the stage 2
ps dont beleive what you all read on the net and make sure whe you look at the dyno grahp that they have the setting set at sae this way here they cant increase the numbers
sae stting will ad hp when it will be to hot out side and take out hp when it to cold to give the same number at what ever temputure it is, same for location you could be in the desert or up in the north pole or at sea level or at mount everest it should give you the same number whin in a few hp 1 to 2
uncoreted hp setting i have sean as much as 15 to 30 whp more on a 200 whp car when it cold out this is great for braging right
and for the dyno man showing better numbers on the dyno i cant increase the number other that changing the the setting fot the corection factors other than that dyno dont lie
it could read a bit diferent for dyno to dyno but when the car is tested on the same dyno it will show you if you gain or lost
dyno will save you alot of track time instgead of making alot of run i know i have been drag ring for almost 15 year
but when fininsh on the dyno i still fine tune on the track to get it perfect
chassis dynos can be very bad scenes. There is so many factors that can throw a chassis dyno off. for instance my motor made 837 on a engine dyno, backed by a pretty loose converter a th400 and a 12 bolt the chasis dyno only reads 580 to the wheels, how am i loosing roughly 250hp? im not, the the varibles on the dyno and the car, converter slippage, tire slippage, correction factors. Even tho its a bad to judge like this how does it feel driving it sotck compared to the stage 2? Ditch the gm stage 2 tune, contact BCP performance (06blackg85ss on here) he will set you up with a killer but safe tune. Myself and plenty of others can vouch for him on here.
Last edited by 95cobra68camaro; May 4, 2007 at 11:20 PM.
i have seen a 548 cubic inch make 690 hp and 720 tq on a engin dyno
and on my chassydyno it only made 511 whp it was a a tremeck standard tranny
a chassy dyno mesure what you have at the wheel not what you have at the motor
different wheel, tranny, anything that has rotating mass will affect the number at the wheel
most enging dyno when the engin is on will used there onw headers and most time you dont put all the excesery on the motor, like the alternator, cooling fan, and ect.
and on my chassydyno it only made 511 whp it was a a tremeck standard tranny
a chassy dyno mesure what you have at the wheel not what you have at the motor
different wheel, tranny, anything that has rotating mass will affect the number at the wheel
most enging dyno when the engin is on will used there onw headers and most time you dont put all the excesery on the motor, like the alternator, cooling fan, and ect.



