jdbaugh1 official "build" thread
#27
Thanks man. They have a LOT of potential and used parts are plentiful and cheap if you break something so why not make it fast? These engines are actually relatively easy to work on too. I think back and if I did it over again I probably would have went turbo for more power but the supercharger really is pretty great for autocross. I recommend getting the TC Cobalts front control arms with Powell's trailing spherical control arm bushing. If you have a manual I would also recommend his F23 front trans/engine mount as well. These mods will get rid of the wheel hop problem.
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#31
#32
Here is a video from autocross Midwest Divisional Championships in Lincoln Nebraska this weekend. I placed second behind a 2014 Ford Fiesta. Second video I spin out the first run of the second day.
Last edited by jdbaugh1; 07-31-2016 at 07:43 PM.
#36
I got them because I wanted a sway-bar end link that was quality and will last without diminishing performance.
#37
I think the main thing is they can actually be dialed in instead of the "close enough" approach with fixed length end-links. Another advantage is you can adjust them for zero load with you sitting in the drivers seat.
I got them because I wanted a sway-bar end link that was quality and will last without diminishing performance.
I got them because I wanted a sway-bar end link that was quality and will last without diminishing performance.
#38
The bushings for the TC bar are 2 bolt so you will have to drill an extra hole for both. However that is no problem because you will already have the cradle dropped anyway.
#40
Thats a nice dual camera angle vid you got there. Looks like a LSD would help for sure. I have a feeling you're not going to stop building up your ride until you run out of parts to throw on there. Lol
#41
One thing I got from this angle is that my brakes are fine for autocross. If I put discs on the back I'm afraid they would lock up too easy without ABS.
I plan on installing rear twisting beam bushings but other than that and what I listed above that is all I would do at this time. If I break an axle I will upgrade those at that time.
I do kind of have a problem considering my original plan was just to supercharge it and leave it stock.
#42
It's ok man. I understand 100%. I was originally going to only do intake/exhaust and just drive it until the wheels fell off... But look at me know. We could have worse problems. Lol. Your car looks super fun to drive.
#43
Thanks man. Yeah an LSD would help me get a bit more speed exiting corners for sure. It's just so expensive and I haven't even done the research on how much of a PITA it is to install. May do it eventually but right now it's still good enough to have a good time.
One thing I got from this angle is that my brakes are fine for autocross. If I put discs on the back I'm afraid they would lock up too easy without ABS.
I plan on installing rear twisting beam bushings but other than that and what I listed above that is all I would do at this time. If I break an axle I will upgrade those at that time.
I do kind of have a problem considering my original plan was just to supercharge it and leave it stock.
One thing I got from this angle is that my brakes are fine for autocross. If I put discs on the back I'm afraid they would lock up too easy without ABS.
I plan on installing rear twisting beam bushings but other than that and what I listed above that is all I would do at this time. If I break an axle I will upgrade those at that time.
I do kind of have a problem considering my original plan was just to supercharge it and leave it stock.
You change the proportioning valve to one from a LSJ as well and it shouldn't lock up. We have the whole parts list for rear disk swap on the website If your going to go and get John's rear beam bushings, you might as well just swap beams and go disk, imo for AutoX drums are okay, but if you start doing any kind of trackdays, they will overheat. trust me, lol.
As for the LSD, trans has to come out and be completely opened up, and shimmed right for the Quaife unit. I let a shop do mine.
#44
You change the proportioning valve to one from a LSJ as well and it shouldn't lock up. We have the whole parts list for rear disk swap on the website If your going to go and get John's rear beam bushings, you might as well just swap beams and go disk, imo for AutoX drums are okay, but if you start doing any kind of trackdays, they will overheat. trust me, lol.
As for the LSD, trans has to come out and be completely opened up, and shimmed right for the Quaife unit. I let a shop do mine.
As for the LSD, trans has to come out and be completely opened up, and shimmed right for the Quaife unit. I let a shop do mine.
The problem with having a shop install an LSD for me is I don't have one anywhere close that I even know of. There are regular repair shops but I don't know if they would do that type of thing or if I would trust them to do it right. So I pretty much have to figure out how to do it or not do it at all.😐
#48
Alright so I my magnaflow muffler recently blew along the seem. So considering my options I wanted to verify my exhaust diameter and against what I previously thought it is actually a 2.25" exhaust instead of the 2.5" I thought I had. First thing I am going to do is try to repair the damaged muffler because I had a jack slip and the exhaust broke the fall so it is slightly damaged, enough that I don't think they would honor warranty.
But what I am getting at is if y'all thought it would be worth it to upgrade to like a ZZP 2.5" exhaust. I won't go 3" because I already have a LT header and downpipe combo that is made to bolt up toe 2.5" flange. I'm not about to buy a different version of that because it is not even a year old. So pretty much what I am looking for is going to a complete 2.5" cat-back worth it over just getting a new muffler for my 2.25" or doing my best at repairing my damaged muffler? Exhaust systems are just way too expensive for no more than they do.
But what I am getting at is if y'all thought it would be worth it to upgrade to like a ZZP 2.5" exhaust. I won't go 3" because I already have a LT header and downpipe combo that is made to bolt up toe 2.5" flange. I'm not about to buy a different version of that because it is not even a year old. So pretty much what I am looking for is going to a complete 2.5" cat-back worth it over just getting a new muffler for my 2.25" or doing my best at repairing my damaged muffler? Exhaust systems are just way too expensive for no more than they do.
#49
So I used a Fel-Pro gasket and it blew it's seal on cylinder 1. The oil you see in this picture is from me doing a compression test prior. Which btw if you use too much oil to test the rings it can give you a false positive with a blown head gasket as well.
blown Fel-Pro head gasket
I sent my head off to get the exhaust ports port matched to the gasket.
Installed an intake air temperature sensor
Going back on with an LSJ head gasket this time. Has relief cuts around the pistons and just looks to be an all around much better gasket.
Used a ratched strap to compress with tensioner pulley.
Cut a slot in my phenolic spacer so the PCV system could work properly.
Before this last time taking the head off there is evidence of the PCV system leaking into the cylinders and the intake manifold through the IM gasket seal. Hopefully with the new head gasket and my PCV routed properly I will burn less oil and restore compression to the number 1 cylinder.