Hopefully there is a simple tool available to pull needle bearings out of a TVS. If anyone knows of any I would appreciate your feedback.

I started noticing a faint noise that to me sounded like bearings going out in my supercharger. So I ordered bearings for replacement. Today I took apart the supercharger to find that the needle bearings are going to be a PITA to replace. But they have to be replaced because some of the needles fell out of one. If I can't buy a tool I will have to make one somehow.

 

it's called a blind puller

 

Got it and found one, thanks.

 

I noticed the rotor pack and front snout or where it mates up to SC body there are no gaskets. Do I just bolt it all back tight together and hope it doesn't leak or should I use something to help seal it up. Way things go for me I can almost garantee it will leak if I just put it back together as is.

 

Anaerobic sealant

 

So the bearings I bought from Harrop in Australia are actually made in USA. Does anyone know the manufacturers part number for the bearing so I don't have to pay $60 shipping from Australia again if these bearings go out frequently? They are made by INA.

 

Also. Does anyone know the torque specs for the snout bolts that hold everything together?

 

Bump for torque specs on snout bolts. Can't seem to find them anywhere and Harrop hasn't gotten back to me.

Edit: Never found values online for this specific blower but it seems general torque specs across various Eaton blowers have torque specs from 18 to 20 ft-lbs.

 

Wait until its daytime there and call them, emailing big companies sucks a lot of the time.

 

Finally got around to replacing the needle bearings with my slide hammer blind bore bearing remover and the damn needle bearing casings won't budge. All the rollers have fallen out. All that is left is the outer casing. My tool grips the casing well it just doesn't have enough force to break the bearings loose. Would appreciate any tips or tricks that I won't f up the housing but will help bust those bearings loose.

 

Took two hex nuts with the same thread/size as the end of my blind bore bearing remover head and welded them together and then welded them to a piece of all thread. I used I wood 2x4 to brace against the face and a wrench driving a nut to extract the bearings. The slide hammer that came with the head was not enough to break the bearings loose.

Blind bore bearing puller kit I used but slide hammer wouldn't budge the bearing loose.


Used this head in combo with the power screw I threw together to finally get the bearing removed


This is the new bearing that came packed with grease. Is this all the grease it needs or should I add more after I install them?


Also to press the bearing in does anyone see any problem with fabricating a piece with an OD close to the same as the bearing with a guide rod down the center to keep them concentric and then install with light tap tap tap from a hammer?

 

Got the bearings super cold with dry ice so that they would go in easier.

Used a rod down the center of pipe to center the bearing. Used a pipe with same OD as bearing to hammer in the bearings.

New bearings installed!

So how much oil do I put in the snout of this SC to fill it back up? I can't find any solid info about this online. Just says replace the oil you remove.

 

Damn dude, looks like you got it all figured out! I like the ingenuity going on there with the tool you built. Not sure how much sc oil it takes, ask harrop?

 

3.4oz.

 

I've seen anything from 3 to 8 oz. searching the forums. Now my SC is completely dry and this is not just a drain and replace. Do you have a source for where you got 3.4oz value? ZZP told me around 6 oz. Given the small amount that is in there that is a significant difference and that is why I want to be damn sure. To get an answer from Harrop I would have to call Australia I'm pretty sure

 

Wait until its daytime there and call they asses

 

If your running the M62 it is 3.4oz There was a huge discussion on this forum that if some was good, more was better, It is not. 3.4oz is from the manufacturer.

I measured mine when I took it apart and i got out just a little less than that. That is all I put in.

 

He's running a TVS 1320 so the Audi S4 has it on the table 5.2oz

 

not that simple. any difference in snout design will affect the oil capacity.

 

Didn't think of snout differences, they have to have the oil capacity somewhere even if it's on their dimension drawings of the tvs

 

Read thread title

 

Lol see what I mean? I will try and get a hold of Harrop this evening, verify, and report back.

 

Alright guys I don't know where we should store this value for safekeeping but Harrop got back to me and told me that they put 230ml or ~7.78 oz. You would only put this much in if the housing is completely dry/empty like mine. Otherwise replace with the same quantity of oil you removed.

 

this info should be added to the first post of the tvs sticky in the lsj section.

 

that is way more than I would have thought