What Have You Done To Your Cobalt Today?
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Snail_SS
Completed the suspension swap from the white lnf to the sedan also transferred over the Powell hardcore bar
Originally Posted by Fulcrum
Modified my headlights today
and picked this up to swap in
and picked this up to swap in
Haha yeah I'm just transferring everything I can from the coupe to the sedan, i like it but i think i would prefer a xxx
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EmperorJJ1 (08-30-2017)
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Replaced the short turbo feed line that came with my WR-3 kit with a 2ft Vibrant feed line and re-routed it away from the manifold.
Next up - try to reinstall my 3bar map sensors again (fought the lower TMAP pigtail last time and it wouldn't click into the factory connector)
Next up - try to reinstall my 3bar map sensors again (fought the lower TMAP pigtail last time and it wouldn't click into the factory connector)
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Recharged my AC system and it is blowing nice cold air again. However I started getting a "check charge sys" message on the dash. I had my battery checked yesterday and it is low on cranking amps so I am picking up a new battery today in hopes that that is the issue and I don't have to replace the alternator.
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Join Date: 01-31-16
Location: Frozen Wasteland of the North
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I did my wheels 2 weeks ago and forgot to post the results...
I do have to find an open empty parking lot to really show off the handy work.
These things were bad though:
Bubbling and peeling and curb rash
Blah
Crap ton of sanding, but it's all in the prep
I do have to find an open empty parking lot to really show off the handy work.
These things were bad though:
Bubbling and peeling and curb rash
Blah
Crap ton of sanding, but it's all in the prep
So i finally had time to drop motor n trans to replace clutch.
Discovered a few things i wasnt happy about.
First is someone had put a junkyard trans in this car.
Second whoever did that really didnt care when they did.
The bellhousing bolts were all barely in if even there at all.
I could literally stick a small bic lighter between block and bell.
That would explain the loud clunking and harsh 1st gear. I assumed it was just motor mounts getting weak.
And to boot thats the reason the clutch went to begin with.
Disc wasnt worn at all (makes me feel better being my first manual and all) the friction disc was broken off of the splined centerpiece on 2 of the 4 pins and half of it was pushed up causing me not to be able to disengage clutch.
But fixed that and all done on the road again.
Discovered a few things i wasnt happy about.
First is someone had put a junkyard trans in this car.
Second whoever did that really didnt care when they did.
The bellhousing bolts were all barely in if even there at all.
I could literally stick a small bic lighter between block and bell.
That would explain the loud clunking and harsh 1st gear. I assumed it was just motor mounts getting weak.
And to boot thats the reason the clutch went to begin with.
Disc wasnt worn at all (makes me feel better being my first manual and all) the friction disc was broken off of the splined centerpiece on 2 of the 4 pins and half of it was pushed up causing me not to be able to disengage clutch.
But fixed that and all done on the road again.
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Fixed alternator problem. Trying to track down and fix all water/meth push to connect fitting leaks. It's hard to do because the system only pressurizes during a pull and drys so fast. All I can do is do a pull and pull over real quick and look for wet spots. If anyone has a better method my ears are open.
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Replaced the short turbo feed line that came with my WR-3 kit with a 2ft Vibrant feed line and re-routed it away from the manifold.
Next up - try to reinstall my 3bar map sensors again (fought the lower TMAP pigtail last time and it wouldn't click into the factory connector)
Next up - try to reinstall my 3bar map sensors again (fought the lower TMAP pigtail last time and it wouldn't click into the factory connector)
Fixed alternator problem. Trying to track down and fix all water/meth push to connect fitting leaks. It's hard to do because the system only pressurizes during a pull and drys so fast. All I can do is do a pull and pull over real quick and look for wet spots. If anyone has a better method my ears are open.
Slobodan Miloević
iTrader: (8)
why do you think its leaking?
I noticed that you have your nozzles in vacuum areas. do you have a check valve installed? I know without a check valve it will suck your mix out, and when it is pre blower, it is known to wash the needle bearings (since the mix is just dribbling in and puddling when not at wot). That would make sense since you had dry ass bearings.
I noticed that you have your nozzles in vacuum areas. do you have a check valve installed? I know without a check valve it will suck your mix out, and when it is pre blower, it is known to wash the needle bearings (since the mix is just dribbling in and puddling when not at wot). That would make sense since you had dry ass bearings.
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
why do you think its leaking?
I noticed that you have your nozzles in vacuum areas. do you have a check valve installed? I know without a check valve it will suck your mix out, and when it is pre blower, it is known to wash the needle bearings (since the mix is just dribbling in and puddling when not at wot). That would make sense since you had dry ass bearings.
I noticed that you have your nozzles in vacuum areas. do you have a check valve installed? I know without a check valve it will suck your mix out, and when it is pre blower, it is known to wash the needle bearings (since the mix is just dribbling in and puddling when not at wot). That would make sense since you had dry ass bearings.
I had the check valve with my old pre-blower setup as well. I think I may have washed the grease out because I have my progressive controller come on at 2psi boost to help prevent spray delay and tip in knock. Full spray above 10 psi. But not that is no issue. Spraying after the blower is working out great.
Senior Member
Installed TTR passenger engine mount and Powell front trans mount as well as keyhole spacer. Another awesome mod. Eliminated almost all movement from the Eng/trans and really raised it up nicely. No more axle bind either.
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iTrader: (1)
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Do you have to go WOT for any part of the testing? Any load or do you just sit there and rev it? Luckily I've never had to do one and I'm curious if I would pass.
My STFT and LTFT are very happy with my tune.... LTFT is always less than 5% either way. I was worried that I may be blowing out my cat with the richer WOT runs but it's hanging in there. As long as that post O2 stays steady the cats doing it's job.