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Received all the specs back from the machine shop on the LEA block I purchased.
First off this was only suppose to have 20,000 miles on it. I was thinking a de-glazing is all that would be needed and a taper under .0004" Standard is 3.4645 so something under 3.4649
I get it with a reman plug on it so off to the machine shop it goes to see what all was done to it. First thing I noticed is one of the OEM oil galley plugs on the back was replaced with a bolt and an oil return hole was drilled and tapped into the filter housing. Indications of a turbo feed and return.
The initial good news was the bore had not been altered. The bad news was the Taper was 13X the allowable limit. Yes, 13 times. Since the LEA sleeves are not removable like the LE5 and others, It took a cut and hone to 3.4700 to perfect all the holes. So I have zero taper now and a letter off to Diamond to take my last specs and increase them to what's necessary.
There's quite a financial difference between a de-glazing and cutting and honing 4 holes. It wasn't done there. The block took .010" off the deck to get it clean. My head already took .010 to take care of warping. That means a .040 Cometic gasket. Overall that will make clearance .007 closer but their next jump is an .080 gasket. The LSJ and others have way more choices.
After Diamond gets back to me I want to discuss lower compression pistons for a higher future boost.
Super Chrome Powder Coat. Not exactly mirror chrome but a killer polished aluminum look.
I don't paint anything that can be taken apart and withstand 400F anymore.
It's the recommended base coat for translucent colors or stand alone for a chrome look.
Gave it a wash after work. Cleaned the undercarriage and inside all jambs. Some rust starting on the passenger rocker, looks like it's time to por 15 that and spray oil inside the rockers.
With that said, she still cleans up nice after 11 years and 142,000 miles.
Only what was necessary to correct warpage. .010.
030 will raise your compression about 1/2 a full point
That and the thinner lsj gasket was my intention. If all goes well I want to dyno it. See if I can make 200whp na on ethanol. If the head gasket isn't sealed it's off to the scrap heap.
Don't know. It wasn't supposed to be this complicated. First it blew the oil out and spun a bearing. Crank had no damage so it was supposed to be an easy fix. Then the timing guide broke and I said **** it, may as well throw that ported milled head on it if I'm changing the timing set. And balance shaft deletes. And may as well do head studs.
Got it running and revved it a little. It jumped two links on the timing chain. Chain has 1/2" of play in it. Rattles more than a graffiti artist with Parkinson's. And the valves are most certainly fucked. Im not pulling the engine a third time or spending another dime on it. I have a 68 beetle to restore **** this car
Started the block blue printing yesterday.
Milled and tapped the head for the correct size intake bolts. No more wimpy LE5 bolts.
Opened the head for the PCV. No longer need to modify gaskets and i didn't want to channel the ZZP Pheonolic spacer.
Opened up the PCV valve holes 25%
04-27-2018, 08:10 PM
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