JoePro424

I started to hear clanking like it was coming from my truck randomly while driving (not after some big pot hole or anything)
Turns out rear shock absorber's bottom bolt came off and it was dragging inside the wheel. I immediately took it to Firestone where they said even if they had a bolt to fit it wouldn't make a difference because the threads are stripped on the frame. The only "proper" way to fix it would be to replace the entire rear axle. I had a look at it, it looks like there's some thread left there and it cold be re-threaded. My question is, how the hell did this happen? Firestone said the shocks on there weren't the originals and was probably due to not enough torque. Which is insane because I've owned the car for 2 years and put over 20,000 miles on it.

And of course it snowed here, again, and I don't have a garage to work on it. So it's just sitting in the parking lot until the weather gets better or I have time to get it to dealership, or a local shop. Thing is I know a dealer is gonna tell me I need to replace the rear axle, local shop could re-thread.
It's still under extended warranty - anyone know if this is something usually covered?

Any other alternative fixes? I'm thinking about ordering a new bolt and just seeing if I can get it to lock on there with some loctite or rig it with a through-bolt and nut. '

Also, how dangerous is it to remove the one shock absorber completely to travel back and forth to work for the next couple days? It's about 2 mile drive.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Around town prob ok but I definitely would not drive it on the freeway. A bump could do some dangerous stuff at speed.

If there's a correctly sized helicoil that might fix it somewhat permanently.

cluelessk

You're fine to keep driving.

A helicoil sounds like the perfect fix.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Drill out the hole and put a nut on the back side with a longer bolt.

JoePro424

So it's that easy? Just put a longer bolt through with a nut? I don't how I feel about that. What would be the down side? If it's not a perfect fit it could vibrate and shake. Would you happen to know exactly what size bolt and nut (&washer?) would work best?
I completely removed the shock and I'm currently driving without one. Here are some pics of the stripped threads.





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cluelessk

Oh I assumed the bolt went through into threads without access to the back.

Just get a good high grade bolt and nut and go all the way through. Just make sure it's tight and check up on it occasionally if you're worried.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, me too. You can ask a dealership for the bolt dimensions (you'd want the shank diameter), or just measure the one on the other side. You can drill the same diameter as the hole in the damper.

cobaltssdude420

Or just re tap the hole to a slightly bigger size...

cobaltssdude420

Which would obviously require a different bolt

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Bolt goes through the shock, so it won't really accept a larger bolt.

cobaltssdude420

I mean, for a permanent fix he'd have to drill it slightly larger

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Yes, so he can either drill and tap for a helicoil and get the same bolt, or drill and use a through bolt and nut.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

This.

zeeky420

I would go with a helicoil

exninja

iTrader: (1)

I like the through bolt. Much cheaper. As long as the other side is flat for the nut.

cobaltssdude420

I've never heard of a helicoil before this lol. Checked it out on google and they seem pretty reliable...

exninja

iTrader: (1)

After install the joint is stronger. We have some parts that have a helicoil installed from new for strength increase.

cluelessk

It's really unnecessary in this case.

royce777

iTrader: (29)

Just go with a through bolt with a nut on the back.