Low boost after intercooler pump change
06-18-2018, 07:28 AM
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Low boost after intercooler pump change
hey guys I searched around but couldn’t find the exact same problem but here we go.....
I have an 06’ ss/sc no LSD.... when I bought the car the intercooler pump as out (no flow) but everything worked perfect boost in every gear, just a high temp I assume. No CELs at all.... so I bought the replacement pump changed it out lost a little fluid not much put more fluid in.... but now in 1st gear I don’t go over 0 psi of boost not matter how hard I accelerate. Second and third is usually strong boost but sometimes inconsistent ? The new pump is flowing properly and I hear whine. Not sure why with a broken pump I was able to reach full boost but now I can’t and or it’s not consistent ? Thanks !
I have an 06’ ss/sc no LSD.... when I bought the car the intercooler pump as out (no flow) but everything worked perfect boost in every gear, just a high temp I assume. No CELs at all.... so I bought the replacement pump changed it out lost a little fluid not much put more fluid in.... but now in 1st gear I don’t go over 0 psi of boost not matter how hard I accelerate. Second and third is usually strong boost but sometimes inconsistent ? The new pump is flowing properly and I hear whine. Not sure why with a broken pump I was able to reach full boost but now I can’t and or it’s not consistent ? Thanks !
06-18-2018, 07:57 AM
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I’m not aware or hitting or disturbing anything else ..... it is possible but I don’t believe so and my temp seems to be fine or no diff really, running K&N typhoon .... I manually can move the actuator rod and it seems to slide fine but at the top of its stroke it’s kind of “crunchy” and or makes a hard click ? Just weird like I said because before the pump swap everything worked fine
06-19-2018, 06:34 AM
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Could I still be low on heat exchanger coolant ? Or could there be air in it ? .... first sometimes very rare builds boost up to possibly 5 psi.... second gets boost and third and so on .... just frustrating because with a non functioning heat exchanger pump I had full 12 psi in every gear including first
06-19-2018, 08:05 AM
#6
You could very easily have an air bubble preventing the pump from circulating properly. In my experience the pump does not self prime very well and you have to ensure it is primed with fluid. However if your IAT2 temps are the same as before then that should not be the cause of your boost being pulled though it is an issue I would correct before worrying about boost.
The symptoms you describe are exactly what would happen if your boost bypass solenoid loses power or if your ECU is commanding it open. Get water flowing first, IAT2 temps down where they should be. Then check to see if your solenoid is functioning properly when energized (it will block manifold pressure and vent sc actuator line to atmosphere when energized. You can test this by manually energizing it and try to blow through) Then check to see if it is getting power when the car is running. If it isn't getting power it could be your ECU commanding it open. Do you have an illuminated CEL? There could also be a circuit problem preventing it from getting power but Im not familiar with how that is configured. There are other members on here with access to circuit diagrams that may be able to help with that.
The symptoms you describe are exactly what would happen if your boost bypass solenoid loses power or if your ECU is commanding it open. Get water flowing first, IAT2 temps down where they should be. Then check to see if your solenoid is functioning properly when energized (it will block manifold pressure and vent sc actuator line to atmosphere when energized. You can test this by manually energizing it and try to blow through) Then check to see if it is getting power when the car is running. If it isn't getting power it could be your ECU commanding it open. Do you have an illuminated CEL? There could also be a circuit problem preventing it from getting power but Im not familiar with how that is configured. There are other members on here with access to circuit diagrams that may be able to help with that.
06-19-2018, 10:27 AM
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I have a typhoon k&n so I could assume of hope I’m “cold” being in the splash guard in the fender but the sensor could be reading high just before I changed the pump I had no problem ....
06-19-2018, 10:35 AM
#10
IAT2 temps are post-supercharger. IAT1 temps are before. What you are looking for is if your IC pump is working correctly you will have much lower IAT2 temps than if it isn't. Are you sure the old unit wasn't working? How did you check it? If your IAT2 temps are high enough your ECU could pull boost but I honestly don't know how it is all mapped out and what all could trigger the ECU to do that.
I can tell you we aren't going to be able to figure it out for you without you doing some trouble-shooting. We don't know what you did to cause the boost to be pulled.
I can tell you we aren't going to be able to figure it out for you without you doing some trouble-shooting. We don't know what you did to cause the boost to be pulled.
06-19-2018, 12:44 PM
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Yea I checked the pump before I replaced it I could see coolant but no flow .... so I did what everyone told me to do, hit it with a wrench and it turned on I had flow ....I could see the swirl of the coolant but it only worked when it wanted to (turned off when it wanted to) had to hit it with a wrench again to turn it on..... now that I replaced the pump anytime the car is running and I open the cap I see the swirl flow right at the T....
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