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bought this 98 ls1 z28 for 2500 bucks on craigslist yesterday. i had to drive to bremerton, wa to get it tho. it was raining super hard the whole way up there and off and on heavy rain / slushy snow on the way back.
the guy bought the car for ls swap into his nova and ended up not doing it. it sat for 2 or 3 months with the t-tops leaking so it was wet inside but i got to it before there was any mold or real damage. someone put wood panel stickies onto a lot of the interior pieces LOL. has 130k and a4.
it runs and drives really nice its a steal for 2500 bucks. i'm going to put some elbow grease into it and get it fixed up nice. i started peeling off the wood **** on the drive home
has k&n lid, SLP loudmouth exhaust and the tips were put on backwards lol... it had a CEL on the way home and by the time i got back the CEL went off and stayed off. never checked to see what it was
PROS:
cheap
straight body with no dents
runs & drives great
decent wheels
SLP exhaust
shift kit or programming in transmission
everything inside works (power windows/power locks/power seat/power mirrors/cruise control)
CONS:
mismatched bald tires on every wheel
windshield wiper motor bad or broken / bent tab in mechanism wipers work fine but stop in the up position
goofy interior pieces
t-top leak
no T-STAT or broken T-STAT (never heats up fully but gets hot enough to have some heat)
backwards exhaust tips
headlights stuck on brights
brake rotors slightly warped but still stops good
headlight rubber seals messed up
no key fobs
belt sequel
cheesy messed up tint, especially on the rear hatch window (can't even see out of it)
already bought:
long tubes
t-stat
serp belt (installed right away)
275/40/r17 tires
drilled / slotted rotors & ceramic pads (same as ones i put on cobalt)
o2 extensions
2 new black 3.5" exhaust tips (same i put on cobalt)
bow tie valve stem caps 8)
Nice score! I hate trying to tune the 98 computer tho. 2500 bucks tho. That woodgrain looks like ****. Hopefully its just stuck on and you can remove it off. My 98 A4 got maybe 20 on a long trip. When I swapped the 2.73 gears for 3.73 it actually didn't change the mpg.
i did derale pan and trans cooler
bmr lowering springs
kyb shocks
powerstop evo32 drilled/slotted rotors
headlights
fixed most of the little here and there problems.
i need to get started on the interior but i'm trying to make sure the t-stops stopped leaking before i bother.
i did derale pan and trans cooler
bmr lowering springs
kyb shocks
powerstop evo32 drilled/slotted rotors
headlights
fixed most of the little here and there problems.
i need to get started on the interior but i'm trying to make sure the t-stops stopped leaking before i bother.
NIce, T tops were cool, but they all leaked. No matter if it was GM or Ford. Mine weren't air tight back in 2010.
yeah my problem is a was going to use my ramps instead of a floor jack and stands, but i forgot ramps and motor is already apart. so i couldn't drive it up on them anyways
with the car lowered and the jack all the way up i cant even get under the car far enough to get the back bolts and unbolt the cats from the manifolds.
im going to have to bring a block of wood and jack it up in stages lol... lame.
it started pissing rain so i said F it and i'll do some more later
ive done long tube a few time and its just a pain but not too hard.
i got new plug wires and plugs for it while im in there.
Good call! Yeah the clearances especially on the driver side was ridiculous. I think it was the third plug back that I had all kinds of issues with. I ran a step cooler NGK plugs with MSD wires back then.
finished up everything but the exhaust, gotta wait for PCM so i can drive it to shop.
the egr block off was really annoying because the threads on the passenger header were fucked up and i couldnt' get a bolt started. i had to drill into the hole a little bit to steady the bolt so i could force it in the threads and fix them, but it worked out in the end.
the SLP tower bar BARELY fit, i had to walk the bolts down