OK so my SS is down. Check it out.
Well if you want an '09 ss/tc that's what you're gonna pay unless you have a lotta money to put down or can haggle. Remember they didn't have white '08's and I'm not sure what kind of incentives they have right now and I don't think I can let anyone else use my GM discount lol.
My grandpa worked for Hughes, so I get a family discount which equaled to be about $2k off my car, and then the extra $1k off for the memorial sale. I get a certain percentage off a car's msrp, so if I were to buy a CTS I'd get a bigger chunk off it usually adds up to cover tax and some extra. The more expensive the car, the bigger percentage I get taken off.
want to go with me to see if your discount works? ill buy you lunch???? lol Yeah I might check out the one in glendale. But I still got to wait a little while to see if my car will be paid off.
BRO WHEN YOU GO AND GET ONE ASK TO SEE THERE INVOICE ON THE CAR AND TELL THEM THAT YOU WILL ONLY PAY A COUPLE HUNDREDS OVER INVOICE PRICE! THEY WILL LET IT GO! SO GOOD LUCK ON THE BUY AND HOPE THAT BLOWER IS STILL GOOD CAUSE I WANT IT LOL! 

Glad to hear you weren't hurt too bad Steve. Only big hurdle now is getting your insurance to play nice, I'm sure you realize cars can be replaced. One important thing, if they lowball you and just send you a check, DO NOT CASH IT! When you cash the check you are essentially accepting their offer. Don't be afraid to call, escalate, even file a complaint with the DOI. Good luck with things.
-Mike
-Mike
Well if you want an '09 ss/tc that's what you're gonna pay unless you have a lotta money to put down or can haggle. Remember they didn't have white '08's and I'm not sure what kind of incentives they have right now and I don't think I can let anyone else use my GM discount lol.
Last edited by {TEAM ADRENALINE}; Jan 23, 2009 at 07:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
if u can get with a hi rise thatd be great but if not low rise will work too he will just upgrade later. its clean debadged bowtie, only thing on it is the cobalt ls letters
Of course it's possible it could be fixed, but the insurance isn't going to do it because of the extent of the damage compared to the value of the car. Without being able to do a full inspection I'd say there's around $12-13k in damages and most major carriers will total the car if the estimate for damages exceeds 75% of the value or if there is certain types of frame damage. The car is an SS but it's still a Cobalt and there's a reason you're starting to see many of them in the self-serve salvage yards with less damage than that.
It's all about what's best for the insurance company, that's why you have to look out for yourself and never accept an offer that isn't what you feel is adequate. I've had the unfortunate circumstances that insurance has had to write off three or four cars I've owned over the years (not at fault accidents). With that much damage I'd be trying to make sure they did write the car off. The trouble is then going to be getting what the car is worth and not accepting a low-ball initial offer.
And for future reference for everyone else buying a new car that might have heavy depreciation like the Cobalt, GAP insurance can be your friend. It covers the difference between what you owe and how much you get of the car in case of a write-off. It's always negotiable and through my credit union was only $199 and well worth it.
You can do that, but they can manipulate and show you lots of stuff. It usually works better to do your own research before going in to negotiate on any car. For example, when I went in to buy the Cobalt I knew exactly the out the door price I was willing to pay. I started off on sites like edmunds.com and intellichoice.com to look up the actual invoice price as well as to see what incentives were available. Many times the dealer gets cash back from the manufacturer that isn't advertised so don't just go off what the car maker's web site shows is available.
After figuring out the invoice price with all the options I wanted I subtracted the current incentives and then headed over to the DMV web site to calculate sales taxes and registration fees and from there added on an extra hundred or so for dealer documentation and miscellaneous fees. This gave me pretty close to the out the door price with zero profit for the dealer (they do get a dealer holdback from the manufacturer but you don't want to negotiate for that). I added $300 onto the number I came up with as profit and left a couple hundred margin I was willing to go up, or in other words about $500 over true invoice which was still under sticker and even under their invoice once the rebates were factored in.
The first dealer I went to didn't want to deal so I walked out and headed to the next one on the list. I had went to the chevrolet.com web site and knew exactly where the cars with colors/options I wanted were located. The next dealer I went to accepted my offer after some negotiation. My out the door price I paid for my car with all taxes and fees ended up being less than MSRP sticker price. One other piece of advice is to take a PDA or laptop computer with you so if the dealer tries to start using their "four square" sheet and negotiate off monthly payments you can use a loan calculator to reverse calculate interest, total amount financed, etc.
And for future reference for everyone else buying a new car that might have heavy depreciation like the Cobalt, GAP insurance can be your friend. It covers the difference between what you owe and how much you get of the car in case of a write-off. It's always negotiable and through my credit union was only $199 and well worth it.
After figuring out the invoice price with all the options I wanted I subtracted the current incentives and then headed over to the DMV web site to calculate sales taxes and registration fees and from there added on an extra hundred or so for dealer documentation and miscellaneous fees. This gave me pretty close to the out the door price with zero profit for the dealer (they do get a dealer holdback from the manufacturer but you don't want to negotiate for that). I added $300 onto the number I came up with as profit and left a couple hundred margin I was willing to go up, or in other words about $500 over true invoice which was still under sticker and even under their invoice once the rebates were factored in.
The first dealer I went to didn't want to deal so I walked out and headed to the next one on the list. I had went to the chevrolet.com web site and knew exactly where the cars with colors/options I wanted were located. The next dealer I went to accepted my offer after some negotiation. My out the door price I paid for my car with all taxes and fees ended up being less than MSRP sticker price. One other piece of advice is to take a PDA or laptop computer with you so if the dealer tries to start using their "four square" sheet and negotiate off monthly payments you can use a loan calculator to reverse calculate interest, total amount financed, etc.
Last edited by blackbird; Jan 24, 2009 at 03:06 PM. Reason: speeling errore


