Fuel Injector sale!
Fuel Injector sale!
Take a look http://www.ottperformance.com/Cobalt..._20/index.html
Four 42's $152.99
Four 60's $172.99
Four 79's $262.99
$35 to add an injector harness.
Four 42's $152.99
Four 60's $172.99
Four 79's $262.99
$35 to add an injector harness.
yes, all of them will fit, you need a harness for anything above the 42s. And Fast, I am really interested in this with the TVS - do you know enough about the pricing of the TVS kit to recommend that I buy these now or with the kit?

Yes
The 42's need the harness also. Anyone who is buying the tvs will get there injectors at this price. Other items they will get a discount on though.
yeah i dont mind re pin'n i had to do that for my buddy who got them from ZZP, hmm very tempting ihave the money but i was trying to save it to buy my turbo hahahaa, but this deal is pretty good, hmm idk...i need both things, but having one before the other doesnt really matter hahaha
Sorry to add confusion, I was responding to:
In which case the 42s are a direct fit.
Glad to hear the pricing will be as good in the TVS GB.
In which case the 42s are a direct fit.
Glad to hear the pricing will be as good in the TVS GB.
(could these be run without cooling mods and stuff?)
I have a spare pcm on it's way, what all do i need to do to that to make it plug and play?
Also what can you guys do to make sure I don't fry #4, I'm new to the tuning and seeing multiple people melting #4 out from being too lean. Would you be able to fatten it up a little bit more so that won't happen, which would just sacrifice a little bit of power? I'll be driving in the winter with it also so I just wanna be safe as possible even if it isn't pushing the potential to it's limits, I've got bigger plans, this is just a hold me over.
PM me if you don't wanna discuss here. Thanks.
Ok just to be 100% clear, because I'm paranoid:
Please tell me which one of these is correct.
A) You need the harness whether you are stock or have (GM Stage 2) 42# injectors and are upgrading to 60 or 79
or
B) You don't need the harness if you have (GM Stage 2) 42# injectors and are upgrading to 60 or 79
Thanks!
Please tell me which one of these is correct.
A) You need the harness whether you are stock or have (GM Stage 2) 42# injectors and are upgrading to 60 or 79
or
B) You don't need the harness if you have (GM Stage 2) 42# injectors and are upgrading to 60 or 79
Thanks!
good question i might just wait and get a tune 60's and 2.8 + hub all at the same time.
(could these be run without cooling mods and stuff?)
I have a spare pcm on it's way, what all do i need to do to that to make it plug and play?
Also what can you guys do to make sure I don't fry #4, I'm new to the tuning and seeing multiple people melting #4 out from being too lean. Would you be able to fatten it up a little bit more so that won't happen, which would just sacrifice a little bit of power? I'll be driving in the winter with it also so I just wanna be safe as possible even if it isn't pushing the potential to it's limits, I've got bigger plans, this is just a hold me over.
PM me if you don't wanna discuss here. Thanks.
(could these be run without cooling mods and stuff?)
I have a spare pcm on it's way, what all do i need to do to that to make it plug and play?
Also what can you guys do to make sure I don't fry #4, I'm new to the tuning and seeing multiple people melting #4 out from being too lean. Would you be able to fatten it up a little bit more so that won't happen, which would just sacrifice a little bit of power? I'll be driving in the winter with it also so I just wanna be safe as possible even if it isn't pushing the potential to it's limits, I've got bigger plans, this is just a hold me over.
PM me if you don't wanna discuss here. Thanks.
Not at this time. But our stage kit is still on sale, have you seen it?
The 60's and 2.8" can be run without cooling mods but don't go making freeway pulls one after the other. The best way to make sure you won't blow number four is to monitor afr, knock and to let the car cool down between runs.
The 60's and 2.8" can be run without cooling mods but don't go making freeway pulls one after the other. The best way to make sure you won't blow number four is to monitor afr, knock and to let the car cool down between runs.
1. Do you think that 60's and a 2.9 or 3.0 would be safer, and able to be tuned for?
Honestly, I beat on my car a good bit, I don't know whats considered excessive, but somedays you get the urge you know lol.
All I have and will have when I upgrade is an interceptor, don't have a wideband, and i don't think you can hook one up with the stock exhaust? So i know I can monitor knock, idk about the others, I guess by cooling you mean IAT2's?
2. What would be the best option in your opinion, I'm not really sure, I want the 60's cause of my later plans however I don't want to get them if it's going to be less safe by a long shot than a gm tune you know what I mean?
Sorry for the long windedness I just wanna do it correctly. Thanks again.
Well let me ask you this.
1. Do you think that 60's and a 2.9 or 3.0 would be safer, and able to be tuned for?
Honestly, I beat on my car a good bit, I don't know whats considered excessive, but somedays you get the urge you know lol.
No a 2.8 is just as safe as a 2.9.
All I have and will have when I upgrade is an interceptor, don't have a wideband, and i don't think you can hook one up with the stock exhaust? So i know I can monitor knock, idk about the others, I guess by cooling you mean IAT2's?
You can hook a wb up to stock exhaust, you will just need an extra o2 sensor bung welded in. Iat2=cooling
2. What would be the best option in your opinion, I'm not really sure, I want the 60's cause of my later plans however I don't want to get them if it's going to be less safe by a long shot than a gm tune you know what I mean?
I think 60's with a 2.8 and our tune is safer than the gm tune with a 2.9 any day.
Sorry for the long windedness I just wanna do it correctly. Thanks again.
1. Do you think that 60's and a 2.9 or 3.0 would be safer, and able to be tuned for?
Honestly, I beat on my car a good bit, I don't know whats considered excessive, but somedays you get the urge you know lol.
No a 2.8 is just as safe as a 2.9.
All I have and will have when I upgrade is an interceptor, don't have a wideband, and i don't think you can hook one up with the stock exhaust? So i know I can monitor knock, idk about the others, I guess by cooling you mean IAT2's?
You can hook a wb up to stock exhaust, you will just need an extra o2 sensor bung welded in. Iat2=cooling
2. What would be the best option in your opinion, I'm not really sure, I want the 60's cause of my later plans however I don't want to get them if it's going to be less safe by a long shot than a gm tune you know what I mean?
I think 60's with a 2.8 and our tune is safer than the gm tune with a 2.9 any day.
Sorry for the long windedness I just wanna do it correctly. Thanks again.
...
Hmm, I'm gonna have to research more and ask more Q's but I guess I'll prob be hitting you guys up for a h/e before any injectors or tunes lol. I assume that'd make it more safe?
Final question of the day,
What would you guys look for on the knock and iat2 readings that would point to "woah woah chill out on the throttle"?
Because ever since i installed my interceptor my IAT2 temps go down whenever I'm on the throttle. It is winter here with 30 temp average. So I assume that's why my iat's are doing the opposite? Or you are talking about the heat soak after pulls?
Final question of the day,
What would you guys look for on the knock and iat2 readings that would point to "woah woah chill out on the throttle"?
Because ever since i installed my interceptor my IAT2 temps go down whenever I'm on the throttle. It is winter here with 30 temp average. So I assume that's why my iat's are doing the opposite? Or you are talking about the heat soak after pulls?
Hmm, I'm gonna have to research more and ask more Q's but I guess I'll prob be hitting you guys up for a h/e before any injectors or tunes lol. I assume that'd make it more safe?
Final question of the day,
What would you guys look for on the knock and iat2 readings that would point to "woah woah chill out on the throttle"?
Because ever since i installed my interceptor my IAT2 temps go down whenever I'm on the throttle. It is winter here with 30 temp average. So I assume that's why my iat's are doing the opposite? Or you are talking about the heat soak after pulls?
Final question of the day,
What would you guys look for on the knock and iat2 readings that would point to "woah woah chill out on the throttle"?
Because ever since i installed my interceptor my IAT2 temps go down whenever I'm on the throttle. It is winter here with 30 temp average. So I assume that's why my iat's are doing the opposite? Or you are talking about the heat soak after pulls?
Your IAT2 temps are low now cause of winter, like you suspect - eventually it would heatsoak the cooling system though and the IAT2s would rise.
One of the reasons you wouldn't want to pulley down on the GM tune and 42# injectors is that the injectors would go static in the higher RPM range, while the 60# injectors still have enough capacity. This avoids high RPM lean conditions = boom.
One of the reasons you wouldn't want to pulley down on the GM tune and 42# injectors is that the injectors would go static in the higher RPM range, while the 60# injectors still have enough capacity. This avoids high RPM lean conditions = boom.



