cujo

Have a 2008 Cobalt LT and the suspension is pretty much toast. Bad knocking sound from right rear which sounds like the exhaust smacking the body. Every bump hits HARD. I had Sportlines put on the stock suspension over 8yrs ago. I received the complete FE5/YYZ kit from CED recently (Powell YYZ springs are v7). Also ordered both the SS and non-SS Powergrid end links (12M-65 and 12M-90) from their eBay site... as I am still confused which would be best reading all the review/opinions re the orientation/bend of the sway bar where it connects to the end links. Will likely be using the stock front stabilizer bar for now, which I am still not sure if 18 or 19mm. The bushings I have on order from GMPD say 18mm IIRC. Also ordered a set of FE5 750012 Moog end links as backup. Anyone have pics of stock front stabilizer bars and the 'bend' where they connect to the end links?

Sportlines then...




Sportlines now...






New stuff from CED / Powergrid...

cw383

iTrader: (6)

What kind of instructions are in the end links? Ive often wondered how one would set up the adjustables

cujo

Here is a pic...

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

I just set mine up to be the same length as stock.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Same as above^

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

Damn man those powergrid fully adjustable end-links are expensive but nice pieces and you bought an extra set! lol. You have that kind of cash to throw at it you may as well throw on some FE5 aluminum control arms with Powell's spherical trailing bushing already installed.

The instructions for the end links are good. If you want to get real fancy you have the end links adjusted with you in the car or equivalent weight in the drivers seat. As far as length of end-link, like we have discussed previously, if we assume the GM engineers selected the end link length for a good reason you'd want to use the same end-link length that came with your sway bar stock. Otherwise, because you already have both end-links, I would suggest doing a little experiment. Install each end link length on both sides at the same time. Load up the suspension, with the wheel off, by placing support under the ball joint on the control arm to support the front of the care. Then take a picture, of each configuration, looking normal to the end of the sway bar and post them up here so we can compare, learn, and better advise.

As far as the sound it looks like you have aftermarket exhaust? It is possible that it is banging on the body of your car where it goes over your rear twisting beam. Worth taking a look.

Another thing that will make banging sound is those YYZ springs if you don't have that wrap adjusted down on the bottom set of "dead" coils where the coils actually are is constant contact with each other. You will go over a bump and the coils will separate when the suspensions extends and bang back together when it compresses again.

cujo

Thanks. Yes I had the GMPP Touring Exhaust (as well as the Extrude Honed Exhaust Manifold) put on around the same time 8+ yrs ago. It has mostly rotted off though, and had some makeshift pieces put in. Also had the huge resonator cut off as it kept bottoming out. Still have the muffler though. Noise sounds like the exhaust (or something broken smacking around). Perhaps it is just the old tired Sportlines though.

I had a look see at those pretty FE5 control arms of theirs... and if I am understanding correctly... I would need to make the hole a bit bigger in the stock FE1 knuckle for the ball joint to fit?

Since I am somewhat close to Powell's shop (hour and a half or so away) I will likely get them to install it all once I build up funds again and recover from overdraft. ;-)

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

No need to make the knuckle hole bigger. You can spread the knuckle opening the small amount it needs with a large flat head screwdriver which Powell will tell you the same thing.

It's hard to imagine you don't have something broken or loose. All you can really do is get the car up in the air and wiggle stuff around to see what is banging. Check suspension bushings and all pivot points for all suspension components. With these suspension upgrades you will notice a huge improvement in handling once you get your issues sorted.

cujo

Few more pics of the shocks/springs from CED Also picked up a set of lower arms with the Powell CAB's from CED as well. Don't see Cobalt on the CED site anymore... I see them switching links around though, changing the left nav, etc. Also ordered pretty much every OE nut/bolt in the front suspension area just in case LoL. There are a couple nuts/bolts I am not sure of. ie. the length of the caliper bracket bolts (FE5 ones are longer than FE1... so got both anyway). Also, the knuckle to strut nuts... there were two sizes listed. Got both as well (last pic). Still have the noise issue in back. Does it even when leaving driveway now, so perhaps the rear springs or bushing. Time to save up again ;-)

royce777

iTrader: (29)

looks like a nice project! Sure it will make the car feel great again. How many miles on the car?

cujo

Thanks. Mileage is just under 68k.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

It's a nice upgrade for sure.

cujo

Just wondering if it would be worth while to get new Koni shocks for the rear only (at least for now)... or are these Sachs ok to handle these YYZ springs? Also, if you bought a new TC... would the rears be Sachs? Would the front struts be Sachs as well? Just curious. These struts from CED say PMM on them. I have to assume that CED sells good stuff and would try to 'match' this FE5YYZ setup as best they can. Obviously, anything is going to be better than the dying stock FE1 stuff on there at present.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

I thought Sachs was OEM. When I bought YYZ FE5 combo package off of CED I was pretty sure they came with Sachs shocks. FE5 shocks will work great with YYZ springs. I ran FE5 shocks with YYZ springs for quite a while before swapping over to Konis and in my honest opinion if you are just driving on the street the FE5 shock with YYZ springs is a great package. I wouldn't even worry about wasting time/money swapping the FE5 TC Cobalt shocks out for Konis.

Don't know what PMM is but like you said I wouldn't think CED would ship anything less than OEM quality.

cw383

iTrader: (6)

Ive been hearing of people breaking axles on lowered cars ( although with stock mounts often ). I'm wondering if the YYZ springs could contribute to that, or not since they dont really lower it that much

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Given the higher rate I'm sure the YYZ helps prevent the extra angles since they're significantly more difficult to bottom out

cobaltss#01

iTrader: (4)

Curious as to if there was bumpers in the boots on the struts.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Rotated mount helps a lot. Yyz isn't low enough to effect things like sport lines are. I had sportlines after stock springs and I could feel a noticeable bind in the steering after alignment. Then went to yyz and it went away.

cujo

Found this old pic. This was the day I bought it. Oh how I regret not getting the SC, or at least the 5-spd LT which was $1000 cheaper.

cujo

Finally got the FE5/YYZ and LNF arms w/ Powell CAB bushings installed. John Powell did all the work at his garage. He is a great guy... and a machine! The reason the thing rode like crap metal on metal feeling over certain bumps... two broken Sportline springs... rear and front pass side. Anyway... the almost 9yr old low speed shimmy is gone which was an unexpected bonus. Stance is about the same as the Sportlines (these Powell springs are v7). Hoping to get UCR's done next so I can actually feel comfortable jacking the thing up.









The drivers side rear CAB bolt was fine and required no cutting, heating or anything. The pass side was another story...






The longer Powergrid Endlinks were used with stock FE1 swaybar. Getting the alum LNF FE5 arms to fit in the knuckles was not a simple smack it with a large flat head to spread it. John took the time to ream it out properly.






Immediately after lowering...






After driving around an hour or so...

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

You are lucky to be close to him. Powell suspension parts are awesome. That's a lot of rust.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Wow that is alot of rust makes me wonder how the rest of the car looks from the bottom

cujo

John said it was not too too bad underneath. It has been driven every winter and never oiled, undercoated, etc. Just washed 2-3 times a week... mainly through those auto washes with undercarriage wash. I did have a rotted fuel line though on drivers side rear wheel well area. I see rust on front edge of hood starting to bubble. Also see some on the bottom rocker area. Should have had it done long ago. Needs to be checked thoroughly.

06cobaltss/ss

its not too bad. if you really wanted too you could fix alot of that and put the undercoating on it to prevent it from getting worst. did that with my old cavalier. my buddy has it now and its going on 477k. runs like a dream yet.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Doesn't look so bad, I would do what was mentioned above