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-   -   Handbrake Problem - Stumped (https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/suspension-67/handbrake-problem-stumped-322146/)

wilbates Jul 22, 2016 07:29 PM

Handbrake Problem - Stumped
 
I have a 2010 SS 2.0T with stock calipers and around 30K on the pads.

The handbrake mechanisms on the rear calipers max out when I pull the brake, but the car still rolls away on a slight grade. When you look at the mechanism on the calipers, they limit how far the cable can travel before contacting the stops. Is there an adjustment for these back on the calipers (not the brake handle nut everybody likes to point you to), or are we simply talking new rear pads? I inspected the rear pads, but they don't seem to have premature wear. I don't know much about brakes, but this seems like a bad design.

Thanks

Snail_SS Jul 22, 2016 07:45 PM

It could just be your brake calipers aren't working or at least the part for the handbrake I had to replace a caliper due to my car rolling away

ItalianJoe1 Jul 22, 2016 08:58 PM

The rear calipers on these cars are very weak as far as handbrake holding power is concerned. That's interesting though, I never assumed the caliper would bottom out and limit the grip. As that type is self adjusting, i'd try new pads/rotors before changing calipers or lines if they are both hitting the stop and not holding well. How worn are your pads, you say they aren't unusual but if there's 5mm gone off both sides and the rotors are thinner than stock, that's a lot of gap to make up before the caliper can grab when you twist that e-brake screw.

double clutch Jul 22, 2016 09:42 PM

I had the same problem. Pads and rotors didnt look too bad but a new set of each fixed my issue. Its pretty tight at about 3 clicks now, where as before i could pull it all the way up and have no resistance.

Dutchman Jul 22, 2016 09:53 PM

Yup my 2010 is doing the same thing. I had to replace the calipers around 50k and now at 110K they need to be replaced again

63 Nova SS Jul 22, 2016 10:00 PM

Mine are getting looser. Couldn't have anything to do with the 2nd gear, dump the clutch burn outs I do at the track......
I will go through mine over the winter when it's parked.

Snail_SS Jul 22, 2016 10:21 PM

If you have someone to help you, have someone pull the hand brake up see if the pads contact the rotor or if they close but won't reach

cluelessk Jul 22, 2016 11:00 PM

Mine go from bad to decent and back to bad all the time. Really bad rear brakes.

wilbates Jul 22, 2016 11:03 PM


Originally Posted by Snail_SS (Post 7615641)
If you have someone to help you, have someone pull the hand brake up see if the pads contact the rotor or if they close but won't reach

Yeah, I've had the back end up on jack stands and taken a look at it with help. The handle comes up good and tight because those stops on the calipers (where the spring is attached) are maxed, but the wheels still rotate with little resistance. I'm gonna start with new pads.

cluelessk Jul 22, 2016 11:38 PM


Originally Posted by wilbates (Post 7615647)
Yeah, I've had the back end up on jack stands and taken a look at it with help. The handle comes up good and tight because those stops on the calipers (where the spring is attached) are maxed, but the wheels still rotate with little resistance. I'm gonna start with new pads.

From what I've seen it's the internal e-brake mechanism that fails. It's not serviceable.

Snail_SS Jul 23, 2016 12:20 AM

Yup I had to replace the caliper same thing happened to me I got mine from rockauto I think

wilbates Jul 23, 2016 05:02 PM

Update: Replaced rear pads. Problem solved.

Snail_SS Jul 23, 2016 05:11 PM

Where they that low?

cluelessk Jul 23, 2016 05:14 PM

Problem fixed temporarily*

Snail_SS Jul 23, 2016 05:16 PM


Originally Posted by cluelessk (Post 7615700)
Problem fixed temporarily*

That's what I'm thinking

cobaltssdude420 Sep 8, 2016 11:22 PM


Originally Posted by cluelessk
From what I've seen it's the internal e-brake mechanism that fails. It's not serviceable.

What u mean by internal ebrake mechanism? The assembly is made fairly strong it's just the cables that fuck up sometimes depending on the driver

cluelessk Sep 8, 2016 11:51 PM


Originally Posted by cobaltssdude420 (Post 7621689)
What u mean by internal ebrake mechanism? The assembly is made fairly strong it's just the cables that fuck up sometimes depending on the driver

You again...

The mechanism in the calipers. It just won't grab. You can't access it.

Read up on it.

Snail_SS Sep 9, 2016 12:42 AM

Yeah the rear calipers tend to crap out i need to change the drivers side, it's staring to drag when i go in reverse and when my passenger went bad it was doing the same thing.

Like stated above the caliper ebrake portion isn't serviceable so you would need a new caliper

cobaltssdude420 Sep 14, 2016 06:35 PM


Originally Posted by cluelessk
You again...

The mechanism in the calipers. It just won't grab. You can't access it.

Read up on it.

Lol relax I know what you mean

freeman May 6, 2017 11:06 PM


Originally Posted by cobaltssdude420 (Post 7622365)
Lol relax I know what you mean

I messed up on my 2007 ss/sc which has different brakes.

I rotated the caliper piston to move inward, but didn't align the notch with the inner brake pad bump so the pad was clamping at an angle and not parallel with the rotor. I fried the caliper, and the e brake would not clamp strong because the pad was misaligned.

I learned my lesson.


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