Message I sent to Powell, but looking for opinions - Cobalt SS Network



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Old 09-11-2017, 05:14 PM   #1
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Message I sent to Powell, but looking for opinions

2008 cobalt SS, My car uses the FE5 suspension, Its been torque steering horribly, but goes left right left right. I can also hear some clunking over bumps. I know the sway bar links may be needing changed again I went to get it aligned first, to rule out other issues and they found my ball joints fit loose in the pockets. They were new ball joints last year, Moog 80567 is what the alignment shop said I needed. I looked up what I bought, and it was the right number. Have you heard of these having a sloppy fit? I hope it didn't wreck the holes in my knuckles too. I'm going to try to order a new set of GM control arms, swap in my Powell cabs and hope for the best. Let me know what you think? Thank you
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Old 09-11-2017, 05:57 PM   #2
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The FE1 ball joint stut is smaller than FE5 and maybe that is actually an FE1 ball joint? They aren't real far off because I am running FE5 ball joint with FE1 hub and I just had to spread the part of hub that slips over the ball joint to make it work. Yours would be the opposite situation if that is the case.

I looked on Rock Auto and it suggests this can be used for FE3 and FE5 suspension. Does FE3 suspension have the bigger ball joint stud as well? I was under the impression it didn't.
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:04 PM   #3
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I'm going to bet Powell will say you should not replace the ball joints in aluminum arms. My question is was the ball joint torqued correctly, it's a tighten to one spec, reverse the nut, then re-torque.
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:22 PM   #4
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,,

I'm betting everyone has the Moog incorrectly listed as fitting the FE5 when it doesn't. Ecaulk, good info. I did not. I just torqued it. Getting new GM arms, so Powell should be happy. Lol.
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:23 PM   #5
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Now I'm wondering if I should try the old knuckles or get new. I'm on the fence there
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:28 PM   #6
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Ask Powell what the specs should look like on the control arm bushing for the diameter and then see how close the knuckle is, you should have a mm or two of space between the halfs that collapse together around the ball joint.

I went to Moogs page and they have a different part # for the FE1 (80566) and call out the 80567 for FE3 and FE5. I'd bet the install wasn't done properly due to the torque reverse re-torque required.
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:35 PM   #7
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Pretty sure like 80% that I saw somewhere that FE3 were the same smaller diameter as the FE1.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:56 PM   #8
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You know you could just get new arms from Powell with his cabs already installed. Not cheap I'm sure, but 1 stop shopping.
I screwed up one of my control arms pressing in the cab and just had Powell send me a whole new arm with his bushing installed.
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 63 Nova SS View Post
You know you could just get new arms from Powell with his cabs already installed. Not cheap I'm sure, but 1 stop shopping.
I screwed up one of my control arms pressing in the cab and just had Powell send me a whole new arm with his bushing installed.
This is the way I got mine as well. Just wish I would have thrown down for the front bushings at the same time.
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:24 PM   #10
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Im pretty sure the ball joint for an lsj is smaller than an lnf. You could have gotten an lsj ball joint, thus making it a looser fit. Its about 1 mm smaller IIRC
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:16 AM   #11
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..

Here is what Rock Auto and pretty much everyone else is saying. John says there is a difference in size, so maybe Moog is counting on the knuckle over crushing to tighten around the ball joint stud? Not for me. I ordered new GM arms, so its a moot point now, but it ticks me off Moog would sell them that way.


MOOG K80567 Problem Solver Info
Front Lower; Aluminum Arm; FE3 Sport Suspension; FE5 Performance And Handling Suspension

Doesnt look like its possible to fit both FE3 and FE5 with same part.

Anyone have a listing of that torque sequence?
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Old 09-12-2017, 11:14 AM   #12
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From Powell's instructions:

Leading arm bolts are 50 ft lbs nominal; trailing are 145 ft lbs. Ball joint cross pin
is 37 ft lbs, loosen ¾ turn, 37 ft lbs again +25 degrees.
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:45 AM   #13
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New control arms with Powell spherical trailing bushings and new end links fixed the side to side torque steer I was getting
New shocks and yyz fixed it even better than stock. Car just wants to go strait now.
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:47 AM   #14
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Oh and also did new swaybar bushings which I'm not sure was necessary but they were cheap and I figured any rubber with 130k km on is probably starting to breakdown and couldn't hurt.
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:23 AM   #15
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I have an lsd trans and your setup and can steer with 3 fingers wot. 0 torque steer. Also have his rotated mounts.
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 63 Nova SS View Post
I have an lsd trans and your setup and can steer with 3 fingers wot. 0 torque steer. Also have his rotated mounts.
Also have lsd. New tires im sure are also assisting.
Rotated mounts as well. But I found they actually made torque steer More apparent.
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