Suspension and brake facts (FE1, FE3, FE5, J41, JM4, JL9)
06-01-2009, 09:11 PM
#201
Actually with a 2006 SS you CAN use the TC knuckles. with modification.
You would need to get Pontiac Grand Am hubs from GM, they come drilled with the GA 114.3 bolt pattern AND the Cobalt 110 bolt pattern and will work with your ABS. HOWEVER, you will need to have a machine shop clearance your knuckles about 2mm so the much larger GA hub will fit(it bolts on its just too around the outside) heres where it gets tricky though......not all TC knuckles are cast the same. Some of them have enough room to machine safely, some dont, theres no way to tell what youll get when you order them. you could get a set with the extra meat needed or you could get a set that wouldnt be able to be safely machined. Thats $125 per knuckle gamble.
So....Grand Am GT hubs, TC axles, TC knuckles and machining. Worth it? up to you.
You would need to get Pontiac Grand Am hubs from GM, they come drilled with the GA 114.3 bolt pattern AND the Cobalt 110 bolt pattern and will work with your ABS. HOWEVER, you will need to have a machine shop clearance your knuckles about 2mm so the much larger GA hub will fit(it bolts on its just too around the outside) heres where it gets tricky though......not all TC knuckles are cast the same. Some of them have enough room to machine safely, some dont, theres no way to tell what youll get when you order them. you could get a set with the extra meat needed or you could get a set that wouldnt be able to be safely machined. Thats $125 per knuckle gamble.
So....Grand Am GT hubs, TC axles, TC knuckles and machining. Worth it? up to you.
06-02-2009, 11:33 PM
#203
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hey, i have an 09 ss sedan, nd i noticed there was more wheel gap in the rear wheels than the front. i wasnt sure if it was just me but then i saw that for lowering springs the rear drop was always greater then the front. i wanted to know if i got a set of eibach springs for example, wud leveling it out have a negative effect on its performance? am i better off stock, considering the nice suspension 08 + has?
06-03-2009, 01:46 AM
#204
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hey, i have an 09 ss sedan, nd i noticed there was more wheel gap in the rear wheels than the front. i wasnt sure if it was just me but then i saw that for lowering springs the rear drop was always greater then the front. i wanted to know if i got a set of eibach springs for example, wud leveling it out have a negative effect on its performance? am i better off stock, considering the nice suspension 08 + has?
06-03-2009, 09:53 AM
#205
I am of the opinion that Sportlines WILL NOT improve handling characteristics of an SS/TC other than they reduce brake dive to some extent. Sportlines are good springs, and the TC looks really good on them, but they are more a "looks" mod on the TC imo
06-03-2009, 11:18 AM
#206
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Interesting....so one in my situaton could go with the shocks struts and springs from an SS/TC and improve the handling to be similar if not the same of being a stock shocks struts and eibach sportlines.
06-27-2009, 03:07 AM
#208
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So do the 09 FE5 front and rear springs have different part numbers than the 08's? Has anyone checked? I picked up a set of SS/TC springs from a member with an 09 and the part numbers don't match with those given on the first page, or any cobalt spring p#'s for that matter. I have p#22246979 and p#25793741. Can't seem to find those numbers referenced anywhere in my research.
06-27-2009, 03:44 AM
#210
So do the 09 FE5 front and rear springs have different part numbers than the 08's? Has anyone checked? I picked up a set of SS/TC springs from a member with an 09 and the part numbers don't match with those given on the first page, or any cobalt spring p#'s for that matter. I have p#22246979 and p#25793741. Can't seem to find those numbers referenced anywhere in my research.
If your downpipe is newer and the bolts arent all rusty remove your downpipe and the bolts for the steering rack(just the 2 big ones) the bar will come out the passeneger wheel well. If your DP is originally or appears to have lots of corrosion on the bolts just remove the whole steering rack(2big bolts, small bolt on intermediate shaft and the tie rod nuts. slide the rack out the left wheel well and the bar out the right wheel well)
Last edited by Maven; 06-27-2009 at 03:44 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
06-27-2009, 04:14 AM
#211
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06-27-2009, 11:22 AM
#212
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If your downpipe is newer and the bolts arent all rusty remove your downpipe and the bolts for the steering rack(just the 2 big ones) the bar will come out the passeneger wheel well. If your DP is originally or appears to have lots of corrosion on the bolts just remove the whole steering rack(2big bolts, small bolt on intermediate shaft and the tie rod nuts. slide the rack out the left wheel well and the bar out the right wheel well)
06-27-2009, 05:37 PM
#213
I'm old school
Thread Starter
If you are removing your steering rack, remember that means you are removing your tie rod ends, which messes with your alignment. It you are careful enough to just bust loose the jam nut on the tie rod, but then leave it in place, that will help you put it back together again close enough that you shouldn't need to get a new alignment.
You can also remove the rear powertrain frame bolts, but that may require an engine hoist. I haven't done it myself yet to know for certain.
You can also remove the rear powertrain frame bolts, but that may require an engine hoist. I haven't done it myself yet to know for certain.
06-27-2009, 05:51 PM
#214
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If you are removing your steering rack, remember that means you are removing your tie rod ends, which messes with your alignment. It you are careful enough to just bust loose the jam nut on the tie rod, but then leave it in place, that will help you put it back together again close enough that you shouldn't need to get a new alignment.
You can also remove the rear powertrain frame bolts, but that may require an engine hoist. I haven't done it myself yet to know for certain.
You can also remove the rear powertrain frame bolts, but that may require an engine hoist. I haven't done it myself yet to know for certain.
06-27-2009, 06:16 PM
#215
If you are removing your steering rack, remember that means you are removing your tie rod ends, which messes with your alignment. It you are careful enough to just bust loose the jam nut on the tie rod, but then leave it in place, that will help you put it back together again close enough that you shouldn't need to get a new alignment.
You can also remove the rear powertrain frame bolts, but that may require an engine hoist. I haven't done it myself yet to know for certain.
You can also remove the rear powertrain frame bolts, but that may require an engine hoist. I haven't done it myself yet to know for certain.
Lowering the cradle without an engine support isnt a safe/good idea.
Yes if you remove the rack you can do it with jackstands. if you leave the rack in place youll need really tall jackstands.
Last edited by Maven; 06-27-2009 at 06:16 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
06-27-2009, 06:19 PM
#216
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Purple might be SS/SC, cant remember
You dont need to remove the tie rod ends to remove the rack, you remove the nut that holds the tie rod to the knuckle.
Lowering the cradle without an engine support isnt a safe/good idea.
Yes if you remove the rack you can do it with jackstands. if you leave the rack in place youll need really tall jackstands.
You dont need to remove the tie rod ends to remove the rack, you remove the nut that holds the tie rod to the knuckle.
Lowering the cradle without an engine support isnt a safe/good idea.
Yes if you remove the rack you can do it with jackstands. if you leave the rack in place youll need really tall jackstands.
09-16-2009, 08:45 PM
#218
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2009 Cobalt LT
Hey, being doing some research and was wondering if anyone can help me out on this.
Just bought a 2009 Cobalt LT but looks like its ready to do some off roading. Would like to convert the suspension over to that of the 2009 Cobalt SS with the 18x7.5 rims. What parts will I need to do the conversion. Also my Cobalt has the 5 lug 5-110 bolt pattern. Thanks.
Just bought a 2009 Cobalt LT but looks like its ready to do some off roading. Would like to convert the suspension over to that of the 2009 Cobalt SS with the 18x7.5 rims. What parts will I need to do the conversion. Also my Cobalt has the 5 lug 5-110 bolt pattern. Thanks.
09-17-2009, 08:33 AM
#219
Hey, being doing some research and was wondering if anyone can help me out on this.
Just bought a 2009 Cobalt LT but looks like its ready to do some off roading. Would like to convert the suspension over to that of the 2009 Cobalt SS with the 18x7.5 rims. What parts will I need to do the conversion. Also my Cobalt has the 5 lug 5-110 bolt pattern. Thanks.
Just bought a 2009 Cobalt LT but looks like its ready to do some off roading. Would like to convert the suspension over to that of the 2009 Cobalt SS with the 18x7.5 rims. What parts will I need to do the conversion. Also my Cobalt has the 5 lug 5-110 bolt pattern. Thanks.
09-27-2009, 08:30 PM
#221
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Ya know I think this has been answered before and maybe I am just tired today, but with the competitve driving knuckle LH 88958710, RH 88958711. Do we need any other parts and is it a direct bolt-on? I think the answer to both of these are yes. Also what exactly is the benefit? Stiffer/stronger?
I believe so. Yes.
I believe so. Yes.
Last edited by CobaltSSilver; 09-27-2009 at 08:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
10-07-2009, 01:16 AM
#225
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The part number 19181631 is an updated part number. It would be the one to use, in fact it will automatically update your order if you go to GMPD online.
