CobiJack

I have been through my entire cooling system and even had the pros spend a week with it and we can't seem to figure why I am running high Coolant Temps. He mentioned running lean with the added Turbo, so I look at the tune (I am a novice at tuning, still trying to learn the basics of hptuners), and I noticed that my afr is set to 13.1. Shouldn't I be closer to the 10-11 range? My fans are set to start at 100% at 194°, it has a new water pump, thermostat, Coolant temp sensor, and zzp oversized radiator. It's not doing anything to suggest a bad head gasket, other than Overheating. Is the tune the problem? I'm slowly crossing mechanical off the list.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Your AFR for cruise should be 14.7

For an LE5 for WOT (which you need a wideband to verify iirc) should be around 11.5, not sure what LE5s like.

How high are the temps?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Is the system pressurizing?

CobiJack

I have a wideband installed, I just haven't had time to wire it up yet. Temps get up to around 235, then come down. It's like roller coaster. If I'm around 70mph it won't go over 212

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Get it wired up and see what's going on. It's impossible to tune wot correctly without it, it will also help with getting the idle and cruise areas where they need to be

CobiJack

Can you suggest a power source for the gauges? I tried the cig outlets and the tap a fuse thing, cig outlets are always on and I can't get the fuse tap to give me anything

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Theres a fuse box in the passenger footwell, get an add-a-fuse.

CobiJack

Tried that. My add a fuse must be junk because it doesn't work in any slot in any direction with any fuse. My wideband instructions say there should be 2 black and 2 red wires that both need to be connected to grounds and a 12v power source. I only have 1 of each. It's an aem e85 analog wideband

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

your door locks are constant power. so I'd tap there if you need a constant

If you need a switched power, tap your Ilumination.

Remember, with the add-a-fuse you need 2x fuses in them for it to function.

zeeky420

I'd check into bleeding the system I've heard that will cause temp shooting up and down

CobiJack

I'll try the door locks. I had the boost gauge connected to the cig outlet before, but didn't have the vacuum hose connected, now it's all rigged up and the same connection won't work. I'll probably just try to wire the wideband into the gauge cluster.

CobiJack

There isn't a bleeder valve on these cars. There is a specific refill procedure to limit air in the system. I took temp readings of my downpipe, which is about 4 inches from my heater hoses and crossover tube and I think that 600 degrees could be too much. Going to try some heat shielding on the turbo, Heater hoses and crossover. Lnf hoses have heat shielding from the factory.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Heat shielding is not going to cause the car to overheat. You need to properly bleed the cooling system. I usually just drive around with the cap loose so the air can escape and keep it topped off. How did you run water lines for the turbo? I bet thats causing you some issues.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

This. Always let the car idle up to operating temp with the cap loose add if need then go for a short drive with it loose. Or the other option is to drill a small hole on the t-stat and that will help bleed the system significantly faster.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Are you sure the fan is coming on at 195? I had a turbo LE5 with a ZZP tune that the fan wasn't lowered enough and because of the turbo baking the water pipes back there the car would get very hot very fast, until I lowered the fan turn-on point.

I'd suggest replacing the t-stat again with a good OEM one and drilling a small hole in it to bleed. I've always done that and i've never had one ecotec give me hassles bleeding the cooling system.

CobiJack

Yeah, I checked the tune. 0% at 192, 50% at 194, then 100% on everything else. I changed it to 20% @192 and 100% @ 194. I think they gave me a tune for 93 when I bought my kit for e85. But right now, it's a nice 51° outside so I turned my heat completely off and turned the knob to the cold side and haven't been above 212° for almost 30 miles. I have some exhaust wrap, ordered a Turbo blanket and some heat shielding, I'm going to wrap everything.


Another question, which wire for the dimmer leads to the cluster? I keep seeing grey but I only have green and purple.

CobiJack

All lines have been checked 47 thousand times. Radiator shop says it's not an airlock. I have drained and refilled this by the procedure in the Haynes manual at least 6 times, I would think one of those I could have had right. One heater hose is literally an inch from the downpipe. I would think that has the potential to raise the water temp. Ever leave a hose out in the sun?
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Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Now that you mention it only happens with the heat ON, i remember having a similar issue when i put a k04 on my car. Rerouting those lines farther from the downpipe solved the issue.

Cobalt_noob

Dude I was having this exact same problem with mine... are you using the stock radiator shroud?

If so, replace the resistor. its that little metal part that has holes and has a spring in the center... its a resistor. Replaced that and I haven't had one issue since. The fan turns on every time now. Stupid a$$ design on Chevy's part for sure.

The messed up part about mine was I bought a whole brand new shroud and everything, it worked for like 2 months and then started having over heating issues. Replaced thermostat, the whole nine yards, temp sens. all that. And here it was that little metal resistor on the fan shroud on the corner. Replaced it and it works.

CobiJack

Yeah, I replaced that too. It was bad but I didn't solve my problem. ZZP has you tee the Coolant return for the turbo into the return that comes out of the top of the valve cover. It creates an airlock. I took that tee out and rant the Turbo line straight to the overflow tank. Runs perfect now. I might hit 201 at high rpms but that's it. ZZP said that wouldn't make a difference but it was all the difference.

Cobalt_noob

Interesting. I got the S/C set up so I'm assuming there must be a direct connection in to your cooling system to the turbo? And I'm assuming your heat exchanger is just for inlet air temp? Is the heat exchanger air to liquid cooled or air to air on the turbo set up???

CobiJack

The intercooler is air to air for the intake temperature, but the Turbo itself is cooled by the engine cooling system. There is a line going from the thermostat housing to the Turbo then another return line, now going to the overflow tank. I'm not sure where the coolant return for the lnf is but the way it was set up didn't work.

Cobalt_noob

Hey, whatever works! The SC is liquid to air cooled for intake temps (for obvious reasons) and for the heat exchanger pump they wanted me to tap in to some fuse.... I'm trying to remember its been a while.... but whatever, I tried it numerous times and the pump would just not kick on correctly. I switched over to other sources I knew were constant, no effect.. finally I found that the fuel pump was the perfect choice

So whatever works man. Glad you got it hashed out... hey and how are you liking HP Tuners? Have you found a lot of information on how to tune with it out there?? Thinkin about taking the plunge myself

CobiJack

I really like hptuners, don't really understand a lot of it yet, but I'm slowly learning. I have 3 books on tuning but they don't really give me what I'm looking for. I just bought the tuning schools beginner program so hopefully I can pick this up.

Cobalt_noob

well if you start gettin the hang of it you should start your own thread on how to tune the boosted LE5's.