How to tell if you have a tune?
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How to tell if you have a tune?
How does one tell if their ECM has been flashed with a tune or not? The guy I got my car from claims it was tuned, but I have my doubts. The only reason as to why I am asking is because I have the notorious high idle issue. I have a vxdiag GM on the way that will allow me to flash my ECM. The plan was to flash it with the newer update that is supposed to aid in fixing the issue. (It is one of the revisions). I would like to flash it when I get it, but I'm afraid of the car running like crap if I do and HAVING to get a tune for it to run right. I was going to pull the cover off where I can look to see what color the injectors are...I stumbled across something the other day that depending on the color of them you could tell what stage of injectors were in it..I know it has a smaller SC pulley, intake, full exhaust headers back, and that's all that I know of as far as bolt on mods go.
#2
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green top injectors are stock, black top with silver body are stage 2, and all black injectors with a straight body are 60lb or larger.
if the car has a smaller pulley its more than likely has larger injectors and is tuned in some way as the factory injectors are maxed out with the factory pulley.
if the car has a smaller pulley its more than likely has larger injectors and is tuned in some way as the factory injectors are maxed out with the factory pulley.
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07MetallicSC (03-24-2018)
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Looks like my injectors have a black top with a silver body....Someone else told me to look at the back of my ECM, they said that ZZP puts a sticker on the back of them. I did not have a sticker. I was also told that with the vxdiag and GDS software that it would read 00000000 for calibration if it isn't a GM tune. I guess my next question is, does anyone know if I am able to get the stage 2 GM tune with tis2000, or is it only the stage 1 tune that is in there?
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dont quote me, but i believe the stage 2 tune is the same as the stage 1, the only difference being the blower pulley/belt between the kits.
what blower pulley is on the car? if its got the 4 blue bolts its more than likely the gm stage 2 kit.
when one of these cars is tuned with hp tuners, the stock tune is read out of the car, the calibration is changed and re-written to the ecm. the actual firmware in the ecm isnt changed. what im getting at is the gds software might not pick up a tune thats been changed with hp tuners, im just not sure how that all works.
its been a while since ive done any stuff on gm oe calibrations, but last i looked tis2000 went by vin number, and if the car had a stage kit put on it the gm system got changed to mark that, and any calibrations listed for the vin would be for the stage kit. also to note, not many people here will know much about this stuff, not many people deal with factory calibration stuff, anyone going into the computer is doing custom tuning
what blower pulley is on the car? if its got the 4 blue bolts its more than likely the gm stage 2 kit.
when one of these cars is tuned with hp tuners, the stock tune is read out of the car, the calibration is changed and re-written to the ecm. the actual firmware in the ecm isnt changed. what im getting at is the gds software might not pick up a tune thats been changed with hp tuners, im just not sure how that all works.
its been a while since ive done any stuff on gm oe calibrations, but last i looked tis2000 went by vin number, and if the car had a stage kit put on it the gm system got changed to mark that, and any calibrations listed for the vin would be for the stage kit. also to note, not many people here will know much about this stuff, not many people deal with factory calibration stuff, anyone going into the computer is doing custom tuning
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The high idle issue.
Ever since I got the car, while coasting it will idle 1500-1800rpm. Doesn't matter if the clutch is pushed in or in neutral. It will continue idling that way until you are ALMOST at a complete stop. At that point, it will drop down to around 800rpm. When I initially got the car, it had an exhaust leak at the header where it bolts to the head and also where the downpipe bolts to the header. Some idiot decided to try and weld the flanges together so that it would stop, but it never sealed because you can't get a mig gun in the spots you needed to weld. The cat also acted like it had been gutted, it was stupid loud. So I bought an eBay header and down pipe (catless) cut out the old exhaust, and bolted everything up. I was guessing that part of my high idle was because of this. However, I was wrong.
First drive, it idled down like it should, didnt hang while coasting, but it did hunt for the idle. I figured, hey maybe the car needs to learn it. Well, I also noticed that while I had the cruise set, it would push my head forward a bit then push it back. Almost like you let off the gas and pressed it again. I glanced over at my wideband and it would show lean when it happened. Also, if you let it idle for more than around 20 seconds, the idle would start chopping and running like crap until you revved it up a little then it was fine for another 20 seconds or so.
So I brought it home, unplugged the rear o2 sensor and it went back to how it has always been. Also, it seems that the first time you get on it, it shoots out a big ol' cloud of black smoke, then it seems to be fine.
So my assumption is that the tune is either jacked up, or the ECM has an old version on it. There are some TSBs and also the notes on the latest version is for fixing part of that, or the way I read it anyway. I have pulled my throttle body off and cleaned it with a rag (it wasn't very dirty, but I cleaned it anyway), cleaned the MAF sensor, all with no change.
Ever since I got the car, while coasting it will idle 1500-1800rpm. Doesn't matter if the clutch is pushed in or in neutral. It will continue idling that way until you are ALMOST at a complete stop. At that point, it will drop down to around 800rpm. When I initially got the car, it had an exhaust leak at the header where it bolts to the head and also where the downpipe bolts to the header. Some idiot decided to try and weld the flanges together so that it would stop, but it never sealed because you can't get a mig gun in the spots you needed to weld. The cat also acted like it had been gutted, it was stupid loud. So I bought an eBay header and down pipe (catless) cut out the old exhaust, and bolted everything up. I was guessing that part of my high idle was because of this. However, I was wrong.
First drive, it idled down like it should, didnt hang while coasting, but it did hunt for the idle. I figured, hey maybe the car needs to learn it. Well, I also noticed that while I had the cruise set, it would push my head forward a bit then push it back. Almost like you let off the gas and pressed it again. I glanced over at my wideband and it would show lean when it happened. Also, if you let it idle for more than around 20 seconds, the idle would start chopping and running like crap until you revved it up a little then it was fine for another 20 seconds or so.
So I brought it home, unplugged the rear o2 sensor and it went back to how it has always been. Also, it seems that the first time you get on it, it shoots out a big ol' cloud of black smoke, then it seems to be fine.
So my assumption is that the tune is either jacked up, or the ECM has an old version on it. There are some TSBs and also the notes on the latest version is for fixing part of that, or the way I read it anyway. I have pulled my throttle body off and cleaned it with a rag (it wasn't very dirty, but I cleaned it anyway), cleaned the MAF sensor, all with no change.
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So I had someone that had a GM account run my vin, and there was never a stage 1, 2 or 3 kit installed on my car. Therefore with the GM stuff, I will only be able to flash a stock base SS tune. So that throws all of that out of the water.
I think I'm going to start with ordering the ECM tune from ZZP )109.00) and also pay the extra to get a refundable core (150). I'll pull my injectors and get the numbers off of them to make sure of my injectors and also have them disable the rear o2 sensor and go from there. I will give them a call Monday and ask them if an ECU from them will have the latest GM OS on it as well.
I hooked my scan tool up for giggles (autel ms906), and if I actuate the throttle body from 0%, at around 30% it will make a noise. it will not make the noise again unless I run it up near 100% then back down. I wonder if that isn't what's causing my issue with the idle hanging....although it really doesn't make sense for it to be if at a dead stop it idles like normal.
I think I'm going to start with ordering the ECM tune from ZZP )109.00) and also pay the extra to get a refundable core (150). I'll pull my injectors and get the numbers off of them to make sure of my injectors and also have them disable the rear o2 sensor and go from there. I will give them a call Monday and ask them if an ECU from them will have the latest GM OS on it as well.
I hooked my scan tool up for giggles (autel ms906), and if I actuate the throttle body from 0%, at around 30% it will make a noise. it will not make the noise again unless I run it up near 100% then back down. I wonder if that isn't what's causing my issue with the idle hanging....although it really doesn't make sense for it to be if at a dead stop it idles like normal.
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