Stand Alone Tuner
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Stand Alone Tuner
I have an offroad rock crawler, race buggy.
I have a stock 2.2 L61 motor.
I have the P11 computer right now with a stock tune the tuner just made it stand alone.
I'm now looking for a little extra HP and RPM.
When I'm racing I basically bounce off the rev limiter for about 2hrs, I don't have enough power to up shift on the long up hill sections.
The only thing I did to the motor is the balance shaft delete.
Is there someone you recommend near by I'm in CT.
Or someone I can mail a computer too.
If anything I would like to get a spare computer.
I used someone on Ecotecforum but I'm having difficulty getting that forum to work.
Thank you
~Justin
I have a stock 2.2 L61 motor.
I have the P11 computer right now with a stock tune the tuner just made it stand alone.
I'm now looking for a little extra HP and RPM.
When I'm racing I basically bounce off the rev limiter for about 2hrs, I don't have enough power to up shift on the long up hill sections.
The only thing I did to the motor is the balance shaft delete.
Is there someone you recommend near by I'm in CT.
Or someone I can mail a computer too.
If anything I would like to get a spare computer.
I used someone on Ecotecforum but I'm having difficulty getting that forum to work.
Thank you
~Justin
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I have a lathe so the balance shaft delete was free.
The tuner just wiped out the VATS to make it stand alone.
I didn't care at the time I just wanted it to run.
Now I would like to see if I can get just a little more power. I think more RPM would actuality be more beneficial.
There are some long steep up hill sections were I'm stuck in 2nd if I shift to 3rd I start slowing down.
I need to either a pull a little further in 2nd or have more power for 3rd.
I'm not looking for miracles. I would like to have a spare computer if I can get a little extra out of it even better.
I posted my race videos here.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/new-...-buggy-325743/
#4
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If you want higher RPM you may also look into stiffer valve springs unless 7k is good enough for you. So did you do balance shaft delete like you plugged the oil holes with a collar and sawed off the balance shafts turning them into an idler sprocket or did you do neutral balance shafts?
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If you want higher RPM you may also look into stiffer valve springs unless 7k is good enough for you. So did you do balance shaft delete like you plugged the oil holes with a collar and sawed off the balance shafts turning them into an idler sprocket or did you do neutral balance shafts?
I knocked out the oil bushings, pressed in new ones that I made without holes.
Then cut off the balance shaft.
Still running the chain to run the water pump.
I had to pull the cam shaft out to put the hex in the intake to run a power steering pump.
So while it was out did the delete. Didn't take long. Also went with the newer style chain tensioner.
I wouldn't mind doing valve springs, if it would actually get me higher in the RPMs.
I would need a tune for that.
Right now it seams to red-line around 6500
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My computer is out of something like an 2002, 2004 Caviler
It had a cable throttle and a standard transmission.
I forget now exactly. I couldn't get EFI live to work so got another computer same problem. Gave up and sent it to someone on ecotecforum that used something else to clear the VATS.
I can always pick up another computer they are pretty cheap, but I would like it to plug into the same harness.
What valve springs do you recommend.
I don't mind doing springs they are pretty quick and I can swap them to a new motor if this one ever blows up.
Thank you
~Justin
It had a cable throttle and a standard transmission.
I forget now exactly. I couldn't get EFI live to work so got another computer same problem. Gave up and sent it to someone on ecotecforum that used something else to clear the VATS.
I can always pick up another computer they are pretty cheap, but I would like it to plug into the same harness.
What valve springs do you recommend.
I don't mind doing springs they are pretty quick and I can swap them to a new motor if this one ever blows up.
Thank you
~Justin
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I have 5.38 gears with 39" tires and 2.72 transfer case I run in low range the whole time.
The transmission splits are probably too big but I cannot change the gearing in the transmission.
The transmission is a Jeep AX-15 I use the Sky bellhousing.
There are a couple long up hill straights which feels like forever, usually where I gets passed it is probably more like 30 seconds but feels like forever, where I'm bouncing off the rev limiter in 2nd and when I shift to 3rd I slow down.
The first race was my fault the air filter got covered in mud.
I just want that little bit more, I think increasing the redline will get me into the sweet spot on 3rd instead of bogging down.
I'm not looking for crazy power, some guys have nasty built V8s that can spin the tires all the way up the hills not looking to compete against them. I just want to have fun.
Youtube LM4W or Linemountain Racing
Besides the hills it goes as fast as I feel comfortable I don't feel comfortable driving past like top of 3rd in the woods anyways.
I usually pass people in the woods then the hills come and they pass me back. If I can just keep pulling I would be able to hold them off.
When I go just rock crawling I swap transfer cases to a 5:1
#12
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Well good news is you can tune with hptuners and there are many outfits that could help you with that. Recommend valve springs for anything over 7,000 rpm. I would assume for your application stock cams are ideal for low end torque as it is but valve springs and lightweight retainers could raise your RPM even though torque will probably dive off. ZZP has 82# springs that I think have a good quality to price ratio. I also think they include lightweight titanium retainers standard order. I have those and I rev to 8k with my L61.
If you spend a lot of time in the upper RPMs you may also look into an ATI superdamper because the stock balancer with the L61 stroke is only effective up to 6,800 rpm iirc. This wouldn't be a big deal if you only revved it out occasionally but where you spend most your time in the upper rpm I definitely think it would be beneficial for longevity of the engine. Unfortunately it is an expensive piece. For what you are doing I would get the underdrive pulley as it will reduce the RPM and drag of your belt driven accessories.
Now I know you sort of indicated you aren't interested in going this route but I would think for your application you could seriously benefit from a cheaply sourced M62 supercharger along with supporting components. You could probably get it done for around $800 if you did the work yourself. You could run the stock pulley or maybe even a little larger so you don't run heat problems and it would yield you an extra 50hp safely/easily. That supercharger coupled with 82# valve springs, rev limit at 6,800 to 7,000 rpm and you would have great power throughout your rpm range. Your torque also wouldn't fall off up top where it sounds like you need it. Based on what you described I think M62 with large pulley would be perfect for your application. If you used a large enough pulley you wouldn't even necessarily need intercooling though large pulley with intercooling would be very robust.
If you spend a lot of time in the upper RPMs you may also look into an ATI superdamper because the stock balancer with the L61 stroke is only effective up to 6,800 rpm iirc. This wouldn't be a big deal if you only revved it out occasionally but where you spend most your time in the upper rpm I definitely think it would be beneficial for longevity of the engine. Unfortunately it is an expensive piece. For what you are doing I would get the underdrive pulley as it will reduce the RPM and drag of your belt driven accessories.
Now I know you sort of indicated you aren't interested in going this route but I would think for your application you could seriously benefit from a cheaply sourced M62 supercharger along with supporting components. You could probably get it done for around $800 if you did the work yourself. You could run the stock pulley or maybe even a little larger so you don't run heat problems and it would yield you an extra 50hp safely/easily. That supercharger coupled with 82# valve springs, rev limit at 6,800 to 7,000 rpm and you would have great power throughout your rpm range. Your torque also wouldn't fall off up top where it sounds like you need it. Based on what you described I think M62 with large pulley would be perfect for your application. If you used a large enough pulley you wouldn't even necessarily need intercooling though large pulley with intercooling would be very robust.
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If I put the valve springs on, is there someone I can mail the computer to, to have tuned.
Or does this require real time tuning to increase the Rev Limit?
May also be willing to by HPtuners if this is something I can do myself.
Thank you
~Justin
Or does this require real time tuning to increase the Rev Limit?
May also be willing to by HPtuners if this is something I can do myself.
Thank you
~Justin
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