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Is this a thing with Dynojets???

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Old 03-15-2017, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Sharkey
some shops prefer to use uncorrected numbers. correction factors just tell you what it would make under different conditions. myself, i prefer to know what the cars making right here right now. all correction factors are good for is trying to compare with another car.

as it comes down to, the dyno is a tuning tool and the numbers tell you if your going in the right direction or not. its primary use isn't to see who's car has the bigger d!@#
But they didnt give him the numbers before the tune so uncorrected isnt helpful. And its not that difficult to give someone both numbers, then again the shop didn't want to spend anytime figuring out the rpm signal...
Old 03-15-2017, 09:08 AM
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The shop I got my dyno at asked me ahead of time to have my coil pack cover off, and they went straight to the wire they needed and had no issues getting RPM readings from my car.

Find a new shop, sounds like they aren't competent enough.
Old 03-15-2017, 09:14 AM
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I'm not happy at all with the lack of a baseline (amongst other things). At this point I'm just trying to get the most I can for the money that I've already paid.

I did have another question or two since we're talking about tuning. He said he tuned it for 11.4 afr at WOT, is this slightly too rich? I've read where I believe it was 11.5-11.8 was ideal. Also, is afr tied more closely to rpm or boost level (or both). I ask because when I'm at part throttle at around 5 or 6 psi the afr doesn't drop until around 3500 or so, it'll stay in the 14s until then.
Old 03-15-2017, 09:38 AM
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Who said it's about comparing dicks? What if you want to take a baseline and come back later? Obviously there are tons of variables that will effect the numbers from different sessions, but by using a correction to a set condition, you minimize that as much as you can. And if this shop doesn't care enough to get an rpm signal for this guy, it's a safe assumption they aren't going to save his raw data to potentially have correction added later for comparison. Not that he should be going back there anyway...
Old 03-15-2017, 10:04 AM
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Didn't realize there was a second page when I responded lol
Old 03-15-2017, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jmix
I'm not happy at all with the lack of a baseline (amongst other things). At this point I'm just trying to get the most I can for the money that I've already paid.

I did have another question or two since we're talking about tuning. He said he tuned it for 11.4 afr at WOT, is this slightly too rich? I've read where I believe it was 11.5-11.8 was ideal. Also, is afr tied more closely to rpm or boost level (or both). I ask because when I'm at part throttle at around 5 or 6 psi the afr doesn't drop until around 3500 or so, it'll stay in the 14s until then.
what model of cobalt do you have?
Old 03-15-2017, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 07blackg5
Didn't realize there was a second page when I responded lol
newb
Old 03-15-2017, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ECaulk
what model of cobalt do you have?
It's an 06 SS/SC. The mods are on the first page.

Last edited by jmix; 03-15-2017 at 12:50 PM.
Old 03-15-2017, 02:50 PM
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your fueling is calculated on a ton of variables. whats your experiencing is normal, at mid throttle with some boost it isnt in power enrichment mode yet, so its looking to stay at 14.7:1. once you get harder into the throttle with higher boost it triggers power enrichment and it will richen up to what its tuned for.

11.4 is a tad rich, but its also safe. things will fluctuate with weather, on a real cold day that 11.4 could easily turn to 11.7, all depends on the conditions it was tuned in. id much rather be a little safe than have a slight extra power is will make being leaner.

the dynojet program saves every dyno pull automatically, when a new session is started a new folder is created for that car, so they will likely have all the pulls on file. as for why they didnt give you them, it really depends on the operator. our shop for example doesnt typically give you a baseline on your sheet unless you ask. however, most of the time they arent doing booked dyno runs, they are tuning the vehicles built in the shop, so really strapping the car down to get a before run is pointless. but everything gets an rpm signal (except some of the real high strung rotary engines, emi can be an issue and one misfire can spell disaster) and most eill get a boost reading. typically the wideband isnt hooked to the dyno, it just isnt needed.
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:43 PM
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I didn't really want all of the pulls but I couldn't understand why they wouldn't do a baseline. I came in with a zzp canned tune and I just wanted them to dial it in. I would think that as a company you would want the customer to see what they paid for. For all I know I could have lost power with their dyno tune.
Old 03-15-2017, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jmix
I didn't really want all of the pulls but I couldn't understand why they wouldn't do a baseline. I came in with a zzp canned tune and I just wanted them to dial it in. I would think that as a company you would want the customer to see what they paid for. For all I know I could have lost power with their dyno tune.
That's why you do your research before hand.
Old 03-15-2017, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cluelessk
That's why you do your research before hand.
They had 4.7 stars on Google out of 50 reviews and nothing but good reviews on their Facebook page. I figured a baseline was a standard thing.
Old 03-15-2017, 06:53 PM
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this happened to me at a shop that loves hondas.
Old 03-15-2017, 07:08 PM
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That sucks.




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