hub swap experience
 

so ive decided im done with the 5x110.. possibly the most retarded bolt pattern in history.. anyways.. anyone have any experience with hub swaps? im lookin to go to a 114 but i didnt know if theres anything more to it than pulling the axle nut and then simply pulling the old hub off and putting the new 114 on.. anyone with any experience or tips would be greatly appreciated

you cant do that on the rear, its as simple as that.

ask ls1fbody what is required

yeah i actually did message him.. im waitin on a response.. why cant u do it to the rear?

Uh, i believe all you do is get hub adapters.

why here is all you need :)

http://www.ionforums.com/forums/buy-...110-5x114.html

see now ive seen those as well..do they work as well as they are supposed too? cuz i know there are also variation lug nuts for bolt patterns that are millimeters off but arent recomended on a higher performance car.. so are they safe for a car with 350 to 400 whp?

after reading his post apparently they would be safe? ive never actually seen any

It's not that simple. I did get your message, but i was on my way out the door.

The front is for the most part relatively straight forward. You have to replace the hub, but it's finding one in the correct lug pattern, with the correct dimensions, and the right ABS tooth count thats difficult. You also have to make sure your axle will fit, as well as ensure your spline count matches.

Replacing the rear hub is much more difficult. There isn't really a way to oder an off the shelf part that will bolt to the existing axle. You would have to drill new holes in the already relatively weak TWB. The "easy" solution is welding a plate to the axle and bolting your new hub on. Again, ABS tooth count. Also, it's not just welding the plate on, it has to be true as far as alignment, and it takes a lot of engineering talent and a jig, neither of which i have.

When John and I decided on a path, we came to the conclusion that an axle built to the same specs as the Time Attack cars was the only practical solution.

He may chime in here and add details, but thats what my memory serves thus far.

no further posts needed in this thread lol

ohh ok thanx for the input.. and yeah looks like i would have to go the same route as u did if i wanted to actually the a swap instead of an adapter.. with these 20 mm adapters.. would this run a risk of me rubbing? since itll be 20 mm out further than usual will it not?

also how long did ur swap end up takin ya? it turned out fantastic

lol yeah he pretty much sumed it up but these adapter may be a solution... maybe

i'm running adapters, keep in mind the smallest adapter that is considered safe is 19mm, so you will subtract that from the offset to get the new offset. You will want to find a rim with a very high offset 50+ depending on the width to use adapters.

I think it took about 6 or 7 months, if you take into consideration research, and going back and forth on ideas before settling on the final path.

20mm will put quite a bit of stress on the bearings. Not to mention you'll have to run some pretty radical offsets to get the wheels back inside the wheel well.

Total cost considered, including the new wheels and tires, i could have ordered HRE's. Think about that, haha

yeah cuz the wheels i were lookin at are +36

do not run spacers. the rear axle stress cracks very easily, and this leads to that problem

If I am thinking straight, you would need to run +16 with those spacers. I could have it backwards and you would need +56. Im tired.

i was thinking of doing this because the wheels i wanted were in a 112 and 114.. i know the 112 would allow variation lug nuts but i wouldnt think that variation lug nuts would be safe under higher horsepower applications?

The stress is another reason i would stay away from welding anything on the rear axle unless you know exactly what you're doing. As far as i know, there are about 3 people in the world qualified to do so.

yeah +56 is huuge

me not being one :lol: but would u say variation lug nuts at 400 whp would be retarded?

Probably not. There's a reason factory cars don't come like that. I'm not trying to scare you away from this because i like being unique, I want your car to be safe. If you really are interested, and you understand the kind of budget required for this, PM me again, and i'll get you in contact with the tremendous gentleman that built mine. This swap is not a light bolt on experience, and Hatrickstu can tell you, it took almost 2 days to install, and i'm still working out the bugs.

i appreciate it man.. yeah i was really just tryin to find a decent way to make these wheels fit cuz the 110 pattern is killin me lol and i may just go this route.. i will have to really see on how much i can drop on this..i could prolly pay for it but payin for it comfortably may be another issue lol i never really thought about it since i thought it was more of just a swap out than an entire build.. definitely learned something tonight.

Total build, but remember i switched to Brembo's, TC knuckles and stage eleventy-billion axles as well.

It truly is a full build. Also, the Time Attack spec axle will lower the car about 2 1/2 inches, on STOCK springs. Essentially slamming the rear end.

wow man.. i didnt know it was that drastic.. i guess im gonna have to really thinkin about what i want to do..damn

Yup yup. all those pictures are with my car at maximum ride height with k-sport coilovers, and i still tuck tire.
https://i415.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1260772290

the build came out great though.. has a great stance

It is beautiful! Too bad it's not drivable because the huge tires are rubbing! lol. It would be much cheaper to get wheels custom drilled than to do a full hub swap. It might even be cheaper to sell your car and buy one with a relevant bolt pattern! lol