me either, i cap the hose and the soleniod. and no code so far still, i will just cross my fingers and just keep hoping the light wo't come on.

 

Wonder if this has any bearing on the situation's with the valve?

#PIP4549B: Various Intermittent DTCs Or Electrical / Communication Concerns - keywords bare battery camshaft chaff circuit class2 connection controls crank data DTC exhaust high intake light low message no open - (Feb 8, 2010)

Subject: Various Intermittent DTC's or Electrical/Communication Concerns

Models: 2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt SS
2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt
2006-2010 Chevrolet HHR
2008-2010 Chevrolet HHR SS
2008-2010 Chevrolet Malibu
2007-2009 Pontiac G5
2008-2009 Pontiac G6
2005-2009 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)
2007-2009 Saturn Aura
2005-2007 Saturn Ion
2004-2007 Saturn Ion Redline
2002-2009 Saturn Vue
With any of the following ECOTEC engines
2.0L Engine (RPO LSJ/LNF)
2.2L Engine (RPO L61/LAP)
2.4L Engine (RPO LE5/LE9/LAT)
with one or more of the following DTCs
P0326 P0335 P0341 P060E P0561 P0651 P2120 P2122 P2123 P2125 P2127 P2128 P2135 P2138 U1863 U1886 U1899 U2105 U2106 U2107 U2143

This PI was superseded to update model years. Please discard PIP4549A.

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:

A technician may comment of intermittent CEL, DTC's or No communication with various modules. This may be caused by a short to ground of the vehicle wiring in the engine harness.
Recommendation/Instructions:

The harness may chaff in the area of the Canister Purge Solenoid attachment bracket, causing an intermittent shorting to ground. The harness routing forces the harness into the edge of the bracket. This bracket is present with any Ecotec engine. The Purge Solenoid bracket may have a sharp edge from the manufacturing/shearing operation. If any DTCs are setting consistently, perform the eSI diagnostics and repair as necessary. If the eSI diagnostics do not isolate the concern, inspect the engine harness for potential shorts to ground at the EVAP purge valve bracket on the side of the cylinder head. Then repair and reposition the circuits/harness as necessary.

Note: To prevent future chaffing remove the sharp edge from the purge solenoid bracket and add conduit to the engine harness at the ECM and Purge Solenoid harness breakout.

Object Number: 2394691 Size: SH
Click here for detailed picture of above image.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.


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GM replaced my purge valve because it was staying closed. Wannanty.

 

mine was throwing a code and I went twice to dealership and they finally replaced it and a month later my rear o2 sensor. Now TPMS has **** the bed.

I had a drop in RPMs at start up during fast idle and running rough until it was fixed.

 

Since disconnecting the solenoid keeps it closed could we not just put in a restrictor plate and by that I mean. Make a plate that would go between the intake and the purge solenoid and drill a small hole in the center. My theory is that it would at least tame what ever issue we are having with the solenoid either being open to long or open all the time. We would still be givin suction to the evap system but we would limit the effects on the air flow. Anyone have any input on this

 

its been a week, still no code, yay.

 

I've had my evap purge solenoid disconnected for just about a month now, and my car is running great with a Trifecta tune. To get rid of the CEL and get the LTFT working again, I decided to try reconnecting the solenoid and capping the input from the gas tank, as Stamina suggested - but it popped off on my first drive, despite a snug fit and a zip tie.

Stamina, any word from Vince at Trifecta on fixing this as part of a tune? I'd love to leave the evap purge system fully connected and just bypass it through software.

 

Nope, no word yet. I'll ping him again.

Glad to hear it's running good!

 

its been almost 4 weeks now, still no code. just an update for all of you.

 

I think I may be running into this issue.

I have much higher STFT and LTFTs.

Also i have this weird jumping in throttle under partial throttle. No CEL, no misfires. Car runs spot on under WOT.

 

Okay, so I heard back from Vince. He verified it's on his list of things to look into.

In the meantime, he recommended looking into using the capping method and then using a resistor of similar resistance to hook to the electrical connection to keep the ECU happy.

Are there any more updates or findings on this?

I'd use a 22 Ohm resistor to fool the ECU if I was certain that your solenoid was correct. I'll see if I can't do some research with the OEM and back out what the design resistance is. Hopefully it'll be the same as what you found.


Update: I found that the Evap Solenoid (GM Part#: 12608378) comes from ACDelco and offered under the part number 214-2125. I verified that it's a 12V solenoid, but other than that so far I can't find any other technical info about it.

 

So I capped off the input to the solenoid with a tighter-fitting vacuum cap and a metal clamp, and it hasn't popped off yet after a few drives. I couldn't figure out a good way to cap the line coming from the fuel tank - the connector on the end is awkwardly shaped and does not look or feel like it will come off of the hose without damaging something. I stuffed a foam earplug (yay for ghetto mods) in to the connector and it's a pretty snug fit and stayed in place, but I got a "Check gas cap" message this morning and a CEL shortly afterwards.

Stupid emissions control devices. I'm all for saving the planet, but do these things have to be so finicky?

 

Yeah, it must be leaking. I just took the same kind of cap I used for the solenoid and stuck it head first into the evap line (both before and after I disconnected it at the portion up by the battery) and it seems to be working okay.

I'll take a pic if anybody's still wondering what I did.

 

The object of the disconnect test was to show the evap purge valve was bad. It is not meant to drive around with it permanetly disconnected.

Also something to note, if it occurs during warmer temperatures (the varying A/F), this time of year the winter fuels are still being dispensed, it has a higher reid vapor pressure (evaporates easier) and could cause some of the issues in this thread

 

X2. Winter gas is crappy. I can run 2-3* more timing with no knock than I could all winter and it is a lot warmer now.

 

I agree.

I'm also working trying to figure out what could be causing the remainder of the deviations I'm seeing post-solenoid replacement. Before, it wasn't a happy camper at all, so I'm hesitant to hook it all back up until I know everything's fixed.

 

Can I have the part number for the solenoid

 

Yup. Both are 6 posts up from your post. ^

 

Thanks I am ordering it today

 

So most people are just disconnecting the power to the solenoid...

 

Seems to be that way.

That method disables the LTFTs though, so they need to make sure they are not running lean. (Need to normally have negative LTFTs to be safe, which means that the ECU is normally taking out fuel due to being rich overall.)

 

thats funny....i finally figuered out my issue....it was similar to your....i disconnected the evap purge solenoid and my erractic vacuum readings finally went away....after i changed all my vacuum lines it turns out it was the solenoid...

 

Does disconnecting the solenoid just stop the existing LTFT values from being updated, or will the LTFT values not be used at all? Basically, can you let the car learn some decent values with everything connected, and then disconnect it?

I'd love a software solution for this because I've tried disconnecting mine but I HATE the CEL light

 

No, it appears that when you disconnect it, it becomes zero and remains at zero. That's why normally having negative LTFTs before using that method is important, because you're then only using STFTs.

I've spoken with Vince about this before, but it's low on his list at the moment compared to the other big fish he's frying right now.

 

Cool thanx