New 2008 cobalt BOV?
01-10-2009, 08:56 PM
#77
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ok i can see alot of ppl are lost in the bov mod..........if going with a bov or bypass valve...you need to get a block off plate thats 1st....2nd find out what you want bov or bypass...im going with a bov hks or tial....Synchronic bov will fu*k with you tune to much since we have the maf in front of the turbo...to run a Synchronic bov youll need to put it 2-3inch in front of the throttle and have the bov on the hot side pipe......dont get me wrong the Synchronic bov work good but with a ball bearing turbo could cause damage.....
someone said why would a bov be adjustable...simple you would want the bov to work if your boosting 5 or 20 psi this is why they a adjustable nut on almost every bov you buy....you need to blow off and let all the air out you dont want back spool...so you adjust the bov you cant have the nut set to 20psi and your only running 5pounds..your not going to blow off.....if you have a tial or hks and you have surge adjust it and you should be fine......
when i ready to move the maf and ready to tune then yea i get me a Synchronic bov.......
someone said why would a bov be adjustable...simple you would want the bov to work if your boosting 5 or 20 psi this is why they a adjustable nut on almost every bov you buy....you need to blow off and let all the air out you dont want back spool...so you adjust the bov you cant have the nut set to 20psi and your only running 5pounds..your not going to blow off.....if you have a tial or hks and you have surge adjust it and you should be fine......
when i ready to move the maf and ready to tune then yea i get me a Synchronic bov.......
01-10-2009, 10:18 PM
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if I had any kind of issuse I would def. be letting everyone know!
01-10-2009, 10:35 PM
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w/e im just giving my 2cent if you want take it.....since the ss/tc has the no lift shift you can run a bov and not have no problems with back firing....when racing......
01-28-2009, 01:57 PM
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ok i can see alot of ppl are lost in the bov mod..........if going with a bov or bypass valve...you need to get a block off plate thats 1st....2nd find out what you want bov or bypass...im going with a bov hks or tial....Synchronic bov will fu*k with you tune to much since we have the maf in front of the turbo...to run a Synchronic bov youll need to put it 2-3inch in front of the throttle and have the bov on the hot side pipe......dont get me wrong the Synchronic bov work good but with a ball bearing turbo could cause damage.....
someone said why would a bov be adjustable...simple you would want the bov to work if your boosting 5 or 20 psi this is why they a adjustable nut on almost every bov you buy....you need to blow off and let all the air out you dont want back spool...so you adjust the bov you cant have the nut set to 20psi and your only running 5pounds..your not going to blow off.....if you have a tial or hks and you have surge adjust it and you should be fine......
when i ready to move the maf and ready to tune then yea i get me a Synchronic bov.......
someone said why would a bov be adjustable...simple you would want the bov to work if your boosting 5 or 20 psi this is why they a adjustable nut on almost every bov you buy....you need to blow off and let all the air out you dont want back spool...so you adjust the bov you cant have the nut set to 20psi and your only running 5pounds..your not going to blow off.....if you have a tial or hks and you have surge adjust it and you should be fine......
when i ready to move the maf and ready to tune then yea i get me a Synchronic bov.......
Why do you need a block off plate??
Dave from dejon is running a bov with out all he did was hook the stock one up to a boost only source which makes sense.
And how does the synchronic bov hurt your turbo?
Rerouting the blow off back into the intake will not damage the turbo. that is how most stock one are hooked up you would think that if it would hurt it then they would all just vent to atmosphere to prevent them having to do warranty repairs.
plus rerouting the blow off back to just before the turbo will allow you to keep maximum spool while shifting even with no lift to shift.
AND how will it mess with our tune that makes no sense, if you mount the bovv on the hot pipe and reroute the blow off to just after the maf then it will work exactly like the stock bypass valve.
I am in the proccess right now mof making this exact system. I will have the pipes by the end of the week and the intake the week after. So we will test your theory and mine
02-05-2009, 04:44 PM
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It makes sense to want something that makes you faster. It's just plain stupid to want something that makes you slower. An atmospheric BOV will do two things: 1) screw up your AFR because you are blowing off metered air and 2) throw all your boost pressure out the window instead of helping keep the turbo spooled.
But hey, being cool trumps being fast right? Just look at all the fart can sticker racers.
But hey, being cool trumps being fast right? Just look at all the fart can sticker racers.
02-17-2009, 04:46 PM
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get both. i wouldn't worry about an aftermarket BOV until you get the hardpipes and an intercooler. unless you get the pipes first then the intercooler after. when you WOT shift you won't lose any boost with an aftermarket BOV.
02-24-2009, 07:59 PM
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hahn racecraft...
well, you can put an aftermarket blowoff valve on it, i know that hahn racecraft makes a delete plate in order to make this happen. that is step 1. you have to re work the mass air flow sensor as well. not the easiest thing to do, but it's doable.
02-24-2009, 10:35 PM
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to do it the PROPER way, you do
02-25-2009, 02:28 PM
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You either need a blow through setup for the MAF or you need to recirculate back into the intake otherwise you are blowing off air the MAF has already metered and the engine will not see. This does cause a momentary rich condition and bog between shifts. It will not throw a code though from being to rich unless it misfires, but the ECM adjusts the fueling fast enough to prevent a misfire normally.
03-22-2009, 08:06 PM
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so wait if i get a tune for my car and set the boost from 15psi to 20psi i should get a BOV then right, if i dont will i cause any damage or will it just help things out a bit.
03-27-2009, 10:42 PM
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07-02-2009, 06:39 PM
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hey guys go 2 ths to c my car and hear the blow off. http://www.youtube.com/99turbosi#pla.../6/xG7oibPP-jU
08-13-2009, 06:21 AM
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Ok again, Im new to this site, but not a stranger to 4cylinder turbos. But reading some of the replies, I can’t believe some of the responses ive read. So let me clear this up.
1. Yes our cars have a blow off valve. But for some reason on any factory turbo car they are called bypass valves. And for anyone who says you don’t need them, that’s like saying you don’t need to fart after a long night of drinking, and eating white castle. Hi hp turbo drag cars and bikes typically don’t run them because they’re flat foot shifting, and it’s only for short burst. However, in the everyday driving environment, think about how many times you shift, and get on and off the throttle. When you are in boost, no matter how much, once you let off the throttle the pressures got no where to go. Now if you didn’t have a blow off, or bypass valve, all the pressure (boost) will go back the way it came, right back through the turbo. Which is damaging to the turbo. When the pressure runs back through the compressor side that can cause a rapid slow down, or "surge" that basically puts a gun to the turbos shafts head. Meaning the compressor wheel its self or the shaft can snap due to the rapid slow down, or back spinning of a turbo that doesn’t have a bov, or not a sufficient enough bov. But if you let that pressure release, or "fart" your turbo will live to see another 3rd gear highway pull again.
2. The purpose for resuculating the blow off valve is to help keep the turbo spinning durning shifts, not as effective as a no lift shift, but it helps alot in daily driving. Mitsubishi figured that one on back in 89, with the DSM cars. (Eclipse, talon, laser)
3. "I want an aftermarket blow off valve." Well that’s great kid. But a louder blow off, doesn’t give you any power gains. It might get you some "street cred" but besides that, you’re wasting your hard earned, or your parents hard earned cash. Put it like this, if you’re running a stock turbo, you don’t need an aftermarket bov. However if you do plan on turning up the boost, you can get a stiffer bov spring. That allows the bov to not leak at hi boost, or if the stock spring is getting worn. But if you still gotta have the sound, heres one mod you can do that gets you that oh so cool "whoosh" you’ve been having wet dreams about. Get an aftermarket intake. First of all, if you get a tune you actually will GAIN hp, for about the same price as a bov. Next the stock intake is plastic...plastic is an insulator, and it doesn’t resonate, or allow sound to travel to well. But with an aluminum, or stainless steel intake, the sound of the turbo AND the bov are almost amplified. And if that’s all your worried about is hearing your turbo, and bov, BAM!! Instant race car, just add intake! Plus, the smoother bends help the turbo to spool at lower rpms, which is always a good thing.
4. WOT Shifts with after market bov. Ok so you just had to burn the $, and get an aftermarket bov..for your stock turbo. No you will not lose boost, or "blow off" during shifts. As long as your foots firmly planted, your like the dude from the taco bell commercial. "Good to go!" Now to prove this, a simple explanation on how they work. The back side of the bov is connect to MANIFOLD pressure, and is held shut by a spring for when out of boost. And on the other side, The piston side, which is what blocks the boost from being vented. So when ur at 10psi for example, you have 10psi on the back side of the bov, and 10psi on the piston side. The only difference is you have the additional spring pressure on the back side helping to hold it close. When you go from WOT, to closed, the pressure changes in the intake manifold faster the the rest of the intake system. Now you have 0psi on the back of the bov, and 10psi on the front. What do you think happens? WHOOSH!! The 10psi on remaining pushes the valve open, and all positive pressure (boost)is gone. So that being said as long as you are at WOT, you will not lose boost with an aftermarket bov, due to the fact that a bov will "blow off" if there is any variance from the manifold pressure side of the diaphram in the bov, as compared to the other side of the piston.
5. Any tial bov is way, WAY overkill for most turbos all the way up to at least a 60trim. Someone may argue the point "well my car makes 300hp @22 psi, and my buddies 550 hp turbo (insert car here) is at 22psi, why does he need a tial, or twin smaller bov's (twin type-s, HKS-ssq) Well 22psi, is 22psi, no matter how big or small your turbo is, but the big difference is air flow, or volume. Our stock turbo for example might flow 35lbs per min, vs. a gt35r flows around 75 or 80lbs a min. (if I remember correctly) So with a big ass turbo, you not only have to get rid of 22psi, but you also have to get rid of dubble the volume of air in a reasonable amount of time...FAST! You don’t wanna back spin a $1500 Turbo. So you buy a tial then. Boost is not = to volume.
I hope this clears up some future stupid replies. Its 5am, and my spelling and grammar may suck, but ive tried my best to water down an un technical subject, so ANYONE can understand why they’re wasting they’re $, and time...In stock applications.
1. Yes our cars have a blow off valve. But for some reason on any factory turbo car they are called bypass valves. And for anyone who says you don’t need them, that’s like saying you don’t need to fart after a long night of drinking, and eating white castle. Hi hp turbo drag cars and bikes typically don’t run them because they’re flat foot shifting, and it’s only for short burst. However, in the everyday driving environment, think about how many times you shift, and get on and off the throttle. When you are in boost, no matter how much, once you let off the throttle the pressures got no where to go. Now if you didn’t have a blow off, or bypass valve, all the pressure (boost) will go back the way it came, right back through the turbo. Which is damaging to the turbo. When the pressure runs back through the compressor side that can cause a rapid slow down, or "surge" that basically puts a gun to the turbos shafts head. Meaning the compressor wheel its self or the shaft can snap due to the rapid slow down, or back spinning of a turbo that doesn’t have a bov, or not a sufficient enough bov. But if you let that pressure release, or "fart" your turbo will live to see another 3rd gear highway pull again.
2. The purpose for resuculating the blow off valve is to help keep the turbo spinning durning shifts, not as effective as a no lift shift, but it helps alot in daily driving. Mitsubishi figured that one on back in 89, with the DSM cars. (Eclipse, talon, laser)
3. "I want an aftermarket blow off valve." Well that’s great kid. But a louder blow off, doesn’t give you any power gains. It might get you some "street cred" but besides that, you’re wasting your hard earned, or your parents hard earned cash. Put it like this, if you’re running a stock turbo, you don’t need an aftermarket bov. However if you do plan on turning up the boost, you can get a stiffer bov spring. That allows the bov to not leak at hi boost, or if the stock spring is getting worn. But if you still gotta have the sound, heres one mod you can do that gets you that oh so cool "whoosh" you’ve been having wet dreams about. Get an aftermarket intake. First of all, if you get a tune you actually will GAIN hp, for about the same price as a bov. Next the stock intake is plastic...plastic is an insulator, and it doesn’t resonate, or allow sound to travel to well. But with an aluminum, or stainless steel intake, the sound of the turbo AND the bov are almost amplified. And if that’s all your worried about is hearing your turbo, and bov, BAM!! Instant race car, just add intake! Plus, the smoother bends help the turbo to spool at lower rpms, which is always a good thing.
4. WOT Shifts with after market bov. Ok so you just had to burn the $, and get an aftermarket bov..for your stock turbo. No you will not lose boost, or "blow off" during shifts. As long as your foots firmly planted, your like the dude from the taco bell commercial. "Good to go!" Now to prove this, a simple explanation on how they work. The back side of the bov is connect to MANIFOLD pressure, and is held shut by a spring for when out of boost. And on the other side, The piston side, which is what blocks the boost from being vented. So when ur at 10psi for example, you have 10psi on the back side of the bov, and 10psi on the piston side. The only difference is you have the additional spring pressure on the back side helping to hold it close. When you go from WOT, to closed, the pressure changes in the intake manifold faster the the rest of the intake system. Now you have 0psi on the back of the bov, and 10psi on the front. What do you think happens? WHOOSH!! The 10psi on remaining pushes the valve open, and all positive pressure (boost)is gone. So that being said as long as you are at WOT, you will not lose boost with an aftermarket bov, due to the fact that a bov will "blow off" if there is any variance from the manifold pressure side of the diaphram in the bov, as compared to the other side of the piston.
5. Any tial bov is way, WAY overkill for most turbos all the way up to at least a 60trim. Someone may argue the point "well my car makes 300hp @22 psi, and my buddies 550 hp turbo (insert car here) is at 22psi, why does he need a tial, or twin smaller bov's (twin type-s, HKS-ssq) Well 22psi, is 22psi, no matter how big or small your turbo is, but the big difference is air flow, or volume. Our stock turbo for example might flow 35lbs per min, vs. a gt35r flows around 75 or 80lbs a min. (if I remember correctly) So with a big ass turbo, you not only have to get rid of 22psi, but you also have to get rid of dubble the volume of air in a reasonable amount of time...FAST! You don’t wanna back spin a $1500 Turbo. So you buy a tial then. Boost is not = to volume.
I hope this clears up some future stupid replies. Its 5am, and my spelling and grammar may suck, but ive tried my best to water down an un technical subject, so ANYONE can understand why they’re wasting they’re $, and time...In stock applications.
Last edited by murderedout09; 08-13-2009 at 04:27 PM.
08-26-2009, 03:27 AM
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Ok again, Im new to this site, but not a stranger to 4cylinder turbos. But reading some of the replies, I can’t believe some of the responses ive read. So let me clear this up.
1. Yes our cars have a blow off valve. But for some reason on any factory turbo car they are called bypass valves. And for anyone who says you don’t need them, that’s like saying you don’t need to fart after a long night of drinking, and eating white castle. Hi hp turbo drag cars and bikes typically don’t run them because they’re flat foot shifting, and it’s only for short burst. However, in the everyday driving environment, think about how many times you shift, and get on and off the throttle. When you are in boost, no matter how much, once you let off the throttle the pressures got no where to go. Now if you didn’t have a blow off, or bypass valve, all the pressure (boost) will go back the way it came, right back through the turbo. Which is damaging to the turbo. When the pressure runs back through the compressor side that can cause a rapid slow down, or "surge" that basically puts a gun to the turbos shafts head. Meaning the compressor wheel its self or the shaft can snap due to the rapid slow down, or back spinning of a turbo that doesn’t have a bov, or not a sufficient enough bov. But if you let that pressure release, or "fart" your turbo will live to see another 3rd gear highway pull again.
2. The purpose for resuculating the blow off valve is to help keep the turbo spinning durning shifts, not as effective as a no lift shift, but it helps alot in daily driving. Mitsubishi figured that one on back in 89, with the DSM cars. (Eclipse, talon, laser)
3. "I want an aftermarket blow off valve." Well that’s great kid. But a louder blow off, doesn’t give you any power gains. It might get you some "street cred" but besides that, you’re wasting your hard earned, or your parents hard earned cash. Put it like this, if you’re running a stock turbo, you don’t need an aftermarket bov. However if you do plan on turning up the boost, you can get a stiffer bov spring. That allows the bov to not leak at hi boost, or if the stock spring is getting worn. But if you still gotta have the sound, heres one mod you can do that gets you that oh so cool "whoosh" you’ve been having wet dreams about. Get an aftermarket intake. First of all, if you get a tune you actually will GAIN hp, for about the same price as a bov. Next the stock intake is plastic...plastic is an insulator, and it doesn’t resonate, or allow sound to travel to well. But with an aluminum, or stainless steel intake, the sound of the turbo AND the bov are almost amplified. And if that’s all your worried about is hearing your turbo, and bov, BAM!! Instant race car, just add intake! Plus, the smoother bends help the turbo to spool at lower rpms, which is always a good thing.
4. WOT Shifts with after market bov. Ok so you just had to burn the $, and get an aftermarket bov..for your stock turbo. No you will not lose boost, or "blow off" during shifts. As long as your foots firmly planted, your like the dude from the taco bell commercial. "Good to go!" Now to prove this, a simple explanation on how they work. The back side of the bov is connect to MANIFOLD pressure, and is held shut by a spring for when out of boost. And on the other side, The piston side, which is what blocks the boost from being vented. So when ur at 10psi for example, you have 10psi on the back side of the bov, and 10psi on the piston side. The only difference is you have the additional spring pressure on the back side helping to hold it close. When you go from WOT, to closed, the pressure changes in the intake manifold faster the the rest of the intake system. Now you have 0psi on the back of the bov, and 10psi on the front. What do you think happens? WHOOSH!! The 10psi on remaining pushes the valve open, and all positive pressure (boost)is gone. So that being said as long as you are at WOT, you will not lose boost with an aftermarket bov, due to the fact that a bov will "blow off" if there is any variance from the manifold pressure side of the diaphram in the bov, as compared to the other side of the piston.
5. Any tial bov is way, WAY overkill for most turbos all the way up to at least a 60trim. Someone may argue the point "well my car makes 300hp @22 psi, and my buddies 550 hp turbo (insert car here) is at 22psi, why does he need a tial, or twin smaller bov's (twin type-s, HKS-ssq) Well 22psi, is 22psi, no matter how big or small your turbo is, but the big difference is air flow, or volume. Our stock turbo for example might flow 35lbs per min, vs. a gt35r flows around 75 or 80lbs a min. (if I remember correctly) So with a big ass turbo, you not only have to get rid of 22psi, but you also have to get rid of dubble the volume of air in a reasonable amount of time...FAST! You don’t wanna back spin a $1500 Turbo. So you buy a tial then. Boost is not = to volume.
I hope this clears up some future stupid replies. Its 5am, and my spelling and grammar may suck, but ive tried my best to water down an un technical subject, so ANYONE can understand why they’re wasting they’re $, and time...In stock applications.
1. Yes our cars have a blow off valve. But for some reason on any factory turbo car they are called bypass valves. And for anyone who says you don’t need them, that’s like saying you don’t need to fart after a long night of drinking, and eating white castle. Hi hp turbo drag cars and bikes typically don’t run them because they’re flat foot shifting, and it’s only for short burst. However, in the everyday driving environment, think about how many times you shift, and get on and off the throttle. When you are in boost, no matter how much, once you let off the throttle the pressures got no where to go. Now if you didn’t have a blow off, or bypass valve, all the pressure (boost) will go back the way it came, right back through the turbo. Which is damaging to the turbo. When the pressure runs back through the compressor side that can cause a rapid slow down, or "surge" that basically puts a gun to the turbos shafts head. Meaning the compressor wheel its self or the shaft can snap due to the rapid slow down, or back spinning of a turbo that doesn’t have a bov, or not a sufficient enough bov. But if you let that pressure release, or "fart" your turbo will live to see another 3rd gear highway pull again.
2. The purpose for resuculating the blow off valve is to help keep the turbo spinning durning shifts, not as effective as a no lift shift, but it helps alot in daily driving. Mitsubishi figured that one on back in 89, with the DSM cars. (Eclipse, talon, laser)
3. "I want an aftermarket blow off valve." Well that’s great kid. But a louder blow off, doesn’t give you any power gains. It might get you some "street cred" but besides that, you’re wasting your hard earned, or your parents hard earned cash. Put it like this, if you’re running a stock turbo, you don’t need an aftermarket bov. However if you do plan on turning up the boost, you can get a stiffer bov spring. That allows the bov to not leak at hi boost, or if the stock spring is getting worn. But if you still gotta have the sound, heres one mod you can do that gets you that oh so cool "whoosh" you’ve been having wet dreams about. Get an aftermarket intake. First of all, if you get a tune you actually will GAIN hp, for about the same price as a bov. Next the stock intake is plastic...plastic is an insulator, and it doesn’t resonate, or allow sound to travel to well. But with an aluminum, or stainless steel intake, the sound of the turbo AND the bov are almost amplified. And if that’s all your worried about is hearing your turbo, and bov, BAM!! Instant race car, just add intake! Plus, the smoother bends help the turbo to spool at lower rpms, which is always a good thing.
4. WOT Shifts with after market bov. Ok so you just had to burn the $, and get an aftermarket bov..for your stock turbo. No you will not lose boost, or "blow off" during shifts. As long as your foots firmly planted, your like the dude from the taco bell commercial. "Good to go!" Now to prove this, a simple explanation on how they work. The back side of the bov is connect to MANIFOLD pressure, and is held shut by a spring for when out of boost. And on the other side, The piston side, which is what blocks the boost from being vented. So when ur at 10psi for example, you have 10psi on the back side of the bov, and 10psi on the piston side. The only difference is you have the additional spring pressure on the back side helping to hold it close. When you go from WOT, to closed, the pressure changes in the intake manifold faster the the rest of the intake system. Now you have 0psi on the back of the bov, and 10psi on the front. What do you think happens? WHOOSH!! The 10psi on remaining pushes the valve open, and all positive pressure (boost)is gone. So that being said as long as you are at WOT, you will not lose boost with an aftermarket bov, due to the fact that a bov will "blow off" if there is any variance from the manifold pressure side of the diaphram in the bov, as compared to the other side of the piston.
5. Any tial bov is way, WAY overkill for most turbos all the way up to at least a 60trim. Someone may argue the point "well my car makes 300hp @22 psi, and my buddies 550 hp turbo (insert car here) is at 22psi, why does he need a tial, or twin smaller bov's (twin type-s, HKS-ssq) Well 22psi, is 22psi, no matter how big or small your turbo is, but the big difference is air flow, or volume. Our stock turbo for example might flow 35lbs per min, vs. a gt35r flows around 75 or 80lbs a min. (if I remember correctly) So with a big ass turbo, you not only have to get rid of 22psi, but you also have to get rid of dubble the volume of air in a reasonable amount of time...FAST! You don’t wanna back spin a $1500 Turbo. So you buy a tial then. Boost is not = to volume.
I hope this clears up some future stupid replies. Its 5am, and my spelling and grammar may suck, but ive tried my best to water down an un technical subject, so ANYONE can understand why they’re wasting they’re $, and time...In stock applications.
08-26-2009, 01:44 PM
#97
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A tial is overkill for a STOCK turbo. Any HKS, Greddy, Turbo XS is good for stock and lower hp application. I have a tial on my turbo hayabusa (478hp) and a tial on my 240sx (533hp) But if your planning on goin with a big ass turbo later on, well then it makes sence when your upgrading your innercooler pipes to just have a tial flange put on. Makes sence just to do it once. But for the avereage person who is just adding a bov, because they want a louder one, tial is was over kill. Tial are designed for high boost, and high volume turbos. So adding one to your stock turbo set up, its not even gonna be as "loud" (if thats what your worried about) cuz the the stock turbos dont flow enough CFM. Any smaller 30mm BOV is plenty. I mean if your just gonna burn your $ when you dont really need somthin, why dont you change your stock turbo to an external gate, and run a 44mm V-band wastegate? Because that would be overkill too.
01-22-2010, 04:53 AM
#98
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I just had to post.. thank you murderedout... If I could meet you I would shake your hand. I really would. I don't know where some of these responses or the people who thought you didn't need a bov was thinking... I personally love compressor surge.
01-23-2010, 01:23 AM
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Hey guys, just put in my hahn intake, downpipe and catback exhaust and let me just say, the turbo spools so much louder and the stock internal bov is much much louder. its extremely satisfying!
01-24-2010, 08:47 AM
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Yes your very welcome, and thank you!