Ecotec electric water pump setup
12-16-2012, 03:17 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ecotec electric water pump setup
After a few weeks of testing the electric water pump setup i figured its time for a write up.
This setup is to maintain the stock cooling system with a electric water pump. After many pulls and several cruising miles in town and on the freeway it all seems to work fine with no issues so far.
At this point and time i have the pump wired Key on pump on. i have plans to wire the pump so that it will run for a lil after the engine is shut off..
The hole idea here is to totaly eliminate the balance shafts and water pump..so i don't have the chain on the engine..Less moving parts and less drag on the engine for whatever its worth..
The coolant system on these ecotec engine is a circulating system. Meaning the water is constantly moving. Circulating through the water pump into the block into the head and through the heater core and oil cooler if equipped. Then the water ends up back in the thermostat housing under the thermostat..
most traditional coolant systems us a dead head style. Meaning for the most part the water gets stuck untill the thermostat opens. thats the simple explanation for it.
I personal think the circulating system is best because u get more of a even constant temp of the block and head.
This is the pump and lines i used to do this. The pump is a 20gpm remote electric water pump.
This is a stock water pump i had laying around.
So to do this with out making a block off plate i used a stock water pump and cut the fins off it cuz i was worried they might restrict flow.
Now in order the put the electric water pump to work with the stock system that circulates the water through the block and head constantly when the thermostat is closed, i had to TIG weld 2 bungs on the water tube on the back of the engine. i could have welded 2 male -12 fittings but i chose to do it this way. My tig welding isnt the best lookin but it works and holds. it dosnt show it in this picture but i cut the tube in half between the 2 bungs and welded in a block off plate so the left bung feeds the pump and the right goes through the water pump housing and into the block like factory.
Here it is with the lines hooked up.
I mounted the pump on the engine cradle.
This setup is to maintain the stock cooling system with a electric water pump. After many pulls and several cruising miles in town and on the freeway it all seems to work fine with no issues so far.
At this point and time i have the pump wired Key on pump on. i have plans to wire the pump so that it will run for a lil after the engine is shut off..
The hole idea here is to totaly eliminate the balance shafts and water pump..so i don't have the chain on the engine..Less moving parts and less drag on the engine for whatever its worth..
The coolant system on these ecotec engine is a circulating system. Meaning the water is constantly moving. Circulating through the water pump into the block into the head and through the heater core and oil cooler if equipped. Then the water ends up back in the thermostat housing under the thermostat..
most traditional coolant systems us a dead head style. Meaning for the most part the water gets stuck untill the thermostat opens. thats the simple explanation for it.
I personal think the circulating system is best because u get more of a even constant temp of the block and head.
This is the pump and lines i used to do this. The pump is a 20gpm remote electric water pump.
This is a stock water pump i had laying around.
So to do this with out making a block off plate i used a stock water pump and cut the fins off it cuz i was worried they might restrict flow.
Now in order the put the electric water pump to work with the stock system that circulates the water through the block and head constantly when the thermostat is closed, i had to TIG weld 2 bungs on the water tube on the back of the engine. i could have welded 2 male -12 fittings but i chose to do it this way. My tig welding isnt the best lookin but it works and holds. it dosnt show it in this picture but i cut the tube in half between the 2 bungs and welded in a block off plate so the left bung feeds the pump and the right goes through the water pump housing and into the block like factory.
Here it is with the lines hooked up.
I mounted the pump on the engine cradle.
Last edited by Tjolley; 12-16-2012 at 05:17 PM.
12-19-2012, 10:26 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
i only have it wired like that for testing..Im ordering a kit to turn the water pump on at 160 and turn it off at 140..
12-20-2012, 11:45 AM
#12
Not sure how much money you are looking to spend but I know they make pwm controls that are thermostatically controlled. Rather than just being an on/off it pulses the power to increase or decrease the flow. Some will even reduce the power to 6v to decrease the volume pumped even lower. This will prevent hot spots from developing next to the cylinders because you will always have some flow. Not needed for a drag car but imho would be worthwhile if this is your DD.
12-20-2012, 04:00 PM
#14
Yeah, not cheap. I wonder if you could just run the pump off a relay from the fan#1? The fan already remains on for a certain period of time based on temp.
"Fan Control During After-run (Engine OFF)
• Fixed 36 percent duty cycle commanded after shut-down when the engine coolant temperature at shut-down is greater 101°C (213°F).
• Fixed 60 percent duty cycle commanded after shut-down when the engine coolant temperature at shut-down is greater than 108°C (226.4°F).
• Fans commanded OFF during after-run when:
- System voltage is less than 11.5 V.
- After-run time is greater than 420 seconds.
- Coolant temperature drops below a variable threshold "
The fact that is a pwm signal may cause a problem with the relay buzzing but if i remember enough of my 30 year old electronics training you might be able to get away with it if you have a capacitor in the circuit. Any electronics gurus want to chime in?
"Fan Control During After-run (Engine OFF)
• Fixed 36 percent duty cycle commanded after shut-down when the engine coolant temperature at shut-down is greater 101°C (213°F).
• Fixed 60 percent duty cycle commanded after shut-down when the engine coolant temperature at shut-down is greater than 108°C (226.4°F).
• Fans commanded OFF during after-run when:
- System voltage is less than 11.5 V.
- After-run time is greater than 420 seconds.
- Coolant temperature drops below a variable threshold "
The fact that is a pwm signal may cause a problem with the relay buzzing but if i remember enough of my 30 year old electronics training you might be able to get away with it if you have a capacitor in the circuit. Any electronics gurus want to chime in?
01-15-2013, 09:22 AM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
well guy as some of u may know ive been having a massive missfire issure at high rpm..ive been tryin to sort it out before i get it on the dyno..
the e pump set up is still working well. ive neen driving the car alot to try and find issues..im glad to say that ive had zero cooling issues so far. im lookin forward to the summer time to see how it dose.
there is plenty of room for improvememts if need be.
so far this is the cheepest most cost effective setup.
the e pump set up is still working well. ive neen driving the car alot to try and find issues..im glad to say that ive had zero cooling issues so far. im lookin forward to the summer time to see how it dose.
there is plenty of room for improvememts if need be.
so far this is the cheepest most cost effective setup.
03-05-2013, 08:25 PM
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here's another update. The setup is working perfectly fine no issues. Its been upwards of 75 degrees here..Im also back on gas for the time being.
Car runs at 172degrees most of the time it will jump u to 185 during a pull but it instantly falls back..even on multiple back to back pulls the temp is still in check.
Car runs at 172degrees most of the time it will jump u to 185 during a pull but it instantly falls back..even on multiple back to back pulls the temp is still in check.
03-05-2013, 08:39 PM
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Lol i know..i think i final fix the problem with my miss fire.
My 60# wouldn't take the abuse anymore so Im goin to 80s wen i get my bike fixed soon hopefully.
My 60# wouldn't take the abuse anymore so Im goin to 80s wen i get my bike fixed soon hopefully.
04-10-2013, 09:07 PM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok another update on the pump.
Its getting hotter here im modesto ca it was 96* out side. I spent 2 hrs in stop and go traffic no more than 25mph. The car never saw anything above 196* then the fans would come on and the temp wen Down to 180* wen the fans turned off.
I've put over 5k miles on it with out one issue.
I know i said it before but i fixed the miss fire problem. And will dyno the car with gm s2 pulley and tune on the car. As a good base line. This will happen before i put the 2.4 in..
So the next few months.
Its getting hotter here im modesto ca it was 96* out side. I spent 2 hrs in stop and go traffic no more than 25mph. The car never saw anything above 196* then the fans would come on and the temp wen Down to 180* wen the fans turned off.
I've put over 5k miles on it with out one issue.
I know i said it before but i fixed the miss fire problem. And will dyno the car with gm s2 pulley and tune on the car. As a good base line. This will happen before i put the 2.4 in..
So the next few months.