its gonna be time for an oil change coming up here shortly. Just looking whats the easiest way to do this with the intake manifold in the way. Will the filter come out or will the manifold be in the way?

 

Why don't you try and determine that yourself? How the hell do we know? Let me take a second to vision your imaginary intake... come on dude use your brain.

 

At least tell us the manufacturer of the manifold. Maybe someone else has one or is familiar with it. But with no idea what you have? Phi's kinda rude but he's right.

 

lol worst thread ever as far providing wat intake mani etc... if i was high as **** and drunk i would at least say what type of mani it is. do you have a blower? is it turdbo? does it have NAWZ?

p.s. check your muffler bearings after you change oil for the first time on an aftermarket mani. sometimes they come lose and its just horrible after that

 

You've got the RD Fabs I/M, iirc. Its kind of in the way, from what I have heard from various sources. Best bet would be to use a long extension, place the socket on the Filter housing by hand... then reach in and click in the extension... loosen it... and then reach in and under the manifold to remove the filter. Just a guess though. I run the Vulcan, and that's basically what I do to change mine.

IIRC, there were some guys with the first rendition of the RDFabs manifold that couldn't remove the filter without taking off the manifold. Hopefully you don't have one of those. I doubt it though.

 

i'd love to grab one of those manifolds

 

Uhhh... no.

 

i thought they flowed pretty well?

 

That's what they say. Every engineer/brain power that I know says the design/dynamics are all wrong.

 

oh yeah sure.... oh wait... where are they located? Are they closer towards the muffler? cat? resonator? What brand of blinker fluid do you recommend?

 

I've posted tons of pictures of my engine bay, and threads of my setup that I figure a good amount knew about it.

 

yeah hopefully I dont, if I have to I'm gonna sell it and keep with a stock intake manifold. I don't wanna deal with that crap all the time.

 

have you posted here before??

 

I've been on here since 2005

 

You should be able to. Like I said, I believe it was only the early version that had trouble with it. I can't think of the guy's S/N right now though. Only way to find out is to give it a shot... but I'm guessing you are going to have to do the polka dance to get it out.

Don't feed the trolls.

 

Every single RD Manifold you can change the oil filter with the manifold on. I had the first manifold and I could. I still can with mine that has a 6" plenum compared to the rest that have a 4" plenum. Buy the right tools...

OP, most autopart stores sell a low clearance 32mm socket for Ecotec motors. You should be able to use one of those with a breaker bar to loosen the cap. Hold on, I will go take a pic...

 

 

i dont know what your engine looks like.......

 

lk9 ^_^

 

Needs an extension.

Indeed. Just make sure you get a Phenolic Spacer, that manifold is a heat soaker. Actually, I'd run a phenolic spacer no matter what manifold you're running. Made HUGE improvements on the IAT2 in my I/M, as well as the general temperature of my manifold to the touch.

 

No extension necessary. I've been contemplating buying a phenolic spacer even though my IAT 2 aren't very high at all. Couldn't hurt. How much does it shift the manifold toward the cross-member?

 

Yea lol my head gets pretty hot, idc too much though way cooler than the pos s/c.

 

Its just easier with an extension. The phenolic spacer will certainly help. Isn't the RDFabs mani made from Stainless? Hmmm... I know once the stainless is hot, it will hold the heat more than the aluminum... but I'm curious about how hot the SS actually gets, since it takes so much more to get hot. Aluminum transfers the heat real fast, so heat soak comes quick. I do imagine the Spacer will still help quite a bit.

And my spacer is only like maybe 1/4" thick, if even that... so that's how much closer it comes to the cross member. I don't think its even that thick, actually.

Definitely. A good pick up though, especially with the LK9. Jimbo loved it when he finally put his on.

 

Have to come from an angle so an extension won't work. I don't even have enough clearance above the socket when it's on to fit a socket wrench.

Yeah, it's T304, 16ga. The stainless can get pretty hot in DD scenarios but when you get moving and there's more airflow under the hood, it actually stays cool to the touch even after hard pulls. I've been toying with the idea of an extractor hood to help cool it even more. Most of my data logs I see consistent IAT only 5-20 degrees over ambient down here in FL...

 

Glad I can use an extension. Much easier from the sound of it. And I'm sure the spacer would help with the heat. It dropped mine down to like 2* above ambient, and it would stay cool during DD scenarios, too... which was the largest advantage, imo.