oil change with aftermarket intake manifold
01-30-2012, 09:47 PM
#1
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oil change with aftermarket intake manifold
its gonna be time for an oil change coming up here shortly. Just looking whats the easiest way to do this with the intake manifold in the way. Will the filter come out or will the manifold be in the way?
01-31-2012, 01:15 AM
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Why don't you try and determine that yourself? How the hell do we know? Let me take a second to vision your imaginary intake... come on dude use your brain.
02-01-2012, 01:46 AM
#4
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lol worst thread ever as far providing wat intake mani etc... if i was high as **** and drunk i would at least say what type of mani it is. do you have a blower? is it turdbo? does it have NAWZ?
p.s. check your muffler bearings after you change oil for the first time on an aftermarket mani. sometimes they come lose and its just horrible after that
p.s. check your muffler bearings after you change oil for the first time on an aftermarket mani. sometimes they come lose and its just horrible after that
02-01-2012, 01:57 AM
#5
You've got the RD Fabs I/M, iirc. Its kind of in the way, from what I have heard from various sources. Best bet would be to use a long extension, place the socket on the Filter housing by hand... then reach in and click in the extension... loosen it... and then reach in and under the manifold to remove the filter. Just a guess though. I run the Vulcan, and that's basically what I do to change mine.
IIRC, there were some guys with the first rendition of the RDFabs manifold that couldn't remove the filter without taking off the manifold.
Hopefully you don't have one of those. I doubt it though.
IIRC, there were some guys with the first rendition of the RDFabs manifold that couldn't remove the filter without taking off the manifold.
Hopefully you don't have one of those. I doubt it though.
02-05-2012, 03:09 PM
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lol worst thread ever as far providing wat intake mani etc... if i was high as **** and drunk i would at least say what type of mani it is. do you have a blower? is it turdbo? does it have NAWZ?
p.s. check your muffler bearings after you change oil for the first time on an aftermarket mani. sometimes they come lose and its just horrible after that
p.s. check your muffler bearings after you change oil for the first time on an aftermarket mani. sometimes they come lose and its just horrible after that
02-05-2012, 03:14 PM
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You've got the RD Fabs I/M, iirc. Its kind of in the way, from what I have heard from various sources. Best bet would be to use a long extension, place the socket on the Filter housing by hand... then reach in and click in the extension... loosen it... and then reach in and under the manifold to remove the filter. Just a guess though. I run the Vulcan, and that's basically what I do to change mine.
IIRC, there were some guys with the first rendition of the RDFabs manifold that couldn't remove the filter without taking off the manifold. Hopefully you don't have one of those. I doubt it though.
IIRC, there were some guys with the first rendition of the RDFabs manifold that couldn't remove the filter without taking off the manifold.
Hopefully you don't have one of those. I doubt it though.
02-05-2012, 03:18 PM
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02-05-2012, 07:48 PM
#15
Don't feed the trolls.
02-05-2012, 07:54 PM
#16
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Every single RD Manifold you can change the oil filter with the manifold on. I had the first manifold and I could. I still can with mine that has a 6" plenum compared to the rest that have a 4" plenum. Buy the right tools...
OP, most autopart stores sell a low clearance 32mm socket for Ecotec motors. You should be able to use one of those with a breaker bar to loosen the cap. Hold on, I will go take a pic...
OP, most autopart stores sell a low clearance 32mm socket for Ecotec motors. You should be able to use one of those with a breaker bar to loosen the cap. Hold on, I will go take a pic...
Last edited by Edubs; 02-05-2012 at 08:24 PM. Reason: Added socket size.
02-05-2012, 08:32 PM
#20
Indeed. Just make sure you get a Phenolic Spacer, that manifold is a heat soaker. Actually, I'd run a phenolic spacer no matter what manifold you're running. Made HUGE improvements on the IAT2 in my I/M, as well as the general temperature of my manifold to the touch.
02-05-2012, 08:48 PM
#21
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Needs an extension.
Indeed. Just make sure you get a Phenolic Spacer, that manifold is a heat soaker. Actually, I'd run a phenolic spacer no matter what manifold you're running. Made HUGE improvements on the IAT2 in my I/M, as well as the general temperature of my manifold to the touch.
Indeed. Just make sure you get a Phenolic Spacer, that manifold is a heat soaker. Actually, I'd run a phenolic spacer no matter what manifold you're running. Made HUGE improvements on the IAT2 in my I/M, as well as the general temperature of my manifold to the touch.
02-05-2012, 08:59 PM
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Needs an extension.
Indeed. Just make sure you get a Phenolic Spacer, that manifold is a heat soaker. Actually, I'd run a phenolic spacer no matter what manifold you're running. Made HUGE improvements on the IAT2 in my I/M, as well as the general temperature of my manifold to the touch.
Indeed. Just make sure you get a Phenolic Spacer, that manifold is a heat soaker. Actually, I'd run a phenolic spacer no matter what manifold you're running. Made HUGE improvements on the IAT2 in my I/M, as well as the general temperature of my manifold to the touch.
02-05-2012, 09:22 PM
#23
And my spacer is only like maybe 1/4" thick, if even that... so that's how much closer it comes to the cross member. I don't think its even that thick, actually.
Definitely. A good pick up though, especially with the LK9. Jimbo loved it when he finally put his on.
02-05-2012, 09:57 PM
#24
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Its just easier with an extension. The phenolic spacer will certainly help. Isn't the RDFabs mani made from Stainless? Hmmm... I know once the stainless is hot, it will hold the heat more than the aluminum... but I'm curious about how hot the SS actually gets, since it takes so much more to get hot. Aluminum transfers the heat real fast, so heat soak comes quick. I do imagine the Spacer will still help quite a bit.
And my spacer is only like maybe 1/4" thick, if even that... so that's how much closer it comes to the cross member. I don't think its even that thick, actually.
And my spacer is only like maybe 1/4" thick, if even that... so that's how much closer it comes to the cross member. I don't think its even that thick, actually.
Yeah, it's T304, 16ga. The stainless can get pretty hot in DD scenarios but when you get moving and there's more airflow under the hood, it actually stays cool to the touch even after hard pulls. I've been toying with the idea of an extractor hood to help cool it even more. Most of my data logs I see consistent IAT only 5-20 degrees over ambient down here in FL...
Last edited by Edubs; 02-05-2012 at 10:04 PM.
02-05-2012, 10:08 PM
#25
Glad I can use an extension. Much easier from the sound of it. And I'm sure the spacer would help with the heat. It dropped mine down to like 2* above ambient, and it would stay cool during DD scenarios, too... which was the largest advantage, imo.