Hey guys,

I am looking for someone who has changed a wheel stud on the 4 lug base patter cobalts. There is no room to slide a new stud in, So I know you have to take the hub apart, But I had no luck in this either. I removed all the bolts this weekend and got to the point where the hub should come free but was unable to get it to budge.

Who has done this? Did I miss something? Anybody care to help who has done this? I know there are some GM techs in here too... any help is appreciated

 

Front wheel or rear wheel?

 

did you take off the 29mm bolt? that should be all that's holding it on. if you take that off, and it won't come loose, may just be rusted on.

 

Front wheel

which bolt you talking about? I removed the axle nut and the 3 bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle but couldn't remove it.. I didnt have a mallet with me and that is what I just heard from someone who did it.

 

keep hitting it w/ a dead blow hammer on the part that the studs go through. if that dont get it off it will be a nightmare. i have had to replace steering knuckles because nothing would get the hub out not even an air hammer. so id say try that and if it doesnt work try every position to put sometimes there is a spot so u can put studs in w/out takeing the hub off.

 

Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .

Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .

Without disconnecting the hydraulic brake flex hose, remove and support the brake caliper and bracket as an assembly, and remove the brake rotor.

Inspect the head of the wheel stud to be replaced, to determine if the stud is an original, round-head, or a service replacement, D-shape head.
Important: It will be necessary to cut off a portion of an original, round-head wheel stud in order to provide clearance to remove the stud from the wheel bearing hub.

If an original, round-head wheel stud is to be replaced, then a portion of the stud must be cut off, so that the remainder of the stud will be approximately 10 mm (0.39 in) long from the face of the bearing hub flange.

Rotate the bearing hub to a position where the least amount of interference between the stud and the steering knuckle exists.
Using the J 43631 , release the wheel stud from the bearing hub. If a portion of the stud was cut off, remove and discard the stud.

Loosen the 3 wheel bearing/hub assembly mounting bolts evenly, until there is approximately 7 mm (ź in) of clearance between the seat of the bearing assembly and the steering knuckle.
This will be necessary for removing and installing a service replacement D-shape head stud.

If the stud being replaced was a D-shape head, remove and discard the stud.

 

I'm gonna go pick up a mallet... this seems to be the general consensus... lol

I tried EVERY position when I got the old one out... it was broken in half and STILL barely had enough clearance to come out.

 

Important: It will be necessary to cut off a portion of an original, round-head wheel stud in order to provide clearance to remove the stud from the wheel bearing hub.

If an original, round-head wheel stud is to be replaced, then a portion of the stud must be cut off, so that the remainder of the stud will be approximately 10 mm (0.39 in) long from the face of the bearing hub flange.

 

Obviously there is not enough room to pull the stud out, but if your referring to cutting a new wheel stud even shorter than they are, i don't know about that.

I removed the three in back, then hit the front nut with the impact. Pulled on the front part of the hub a little, then give it a few decent smacks with the 3# rubber mallet. I used the rubber so it wouldn't damage anything, but still hit it with enough for it to break the hub free.

Worked for me. although I need to go back and replace my wheel speed sensor. After replacing mine and installing my rotors, the ABS light comes on randomly, that's the only thing I can think of because the ABS sensor is working and the wires aren't stripped.

 

Use a slide hammer

 

You do not have to cut the new ones to put it in!!!

Make sure you pull out the right 3 bolts. If I remember correctly, there were two sets of 3 bolts. It only comes loose enough to barely squeeze the sucker in there. Basically you just have to rotate the hub to one of the gaps, and wiggle the damn thing in. It is a bitch to do, but there is NO cutting or hammering involved. Well that is until you get it into place, then to pull it through I hammered just enough to get the stud through the other side with about 5 threads, then threw a lugnut on there and sucked it in with the impact gun.

 

This is important. When i had my rotors done they replaced 3 of the wheel studs and they are about 1/2 inch longer than the rest.

 

I am not quite sure I get what you mean? You gotta cut the stud? the one I have is about a 1/2" longer but i figured it was a good thing since the OEM's only appear to catch a hand full of threads with the lug nut.

 

There are 15mm Headed bolts on the back of the wheel hub. ( I think Mine were Blue) Loosen those, but dont pull on the hub yet. Using a hammer loosen out the old stud. rotate the hub so the the stud the needs to be replaced is at about 11 O'clock. Pull on the wheel hub, This should give you enough clearance to get the stud out and put the new one in.

 

removed the bolts. old stud is already out... it cracked out. 11 oclock is drivers side, best clearance is 1 on the passenger side.

either way i pulled like a monster on that hub and got NOWHERE.

 

The stud I got was actually shorter than the rest of them. I just got the same thread pitch and got close on the length.

I did almost exactly what yellow said. Got the stud to 11 o'clock ish. undid all the bolts and gave it a tug. It didn't move so that's where i used the rubber mallet to see if that would crack it loose at all. It cracked loose enough for me to pull on it and get enough room to put the stud in.

Then i took an old lug nut and hand threaded it, grabbed in the impact and hit it til it was pressed tight.

Maybe i'm wrong, but I got mine replaced. Like you said the hardest part is getting the hub free.

 

So I have given in. I was gonna do it myself, but since the dealer cracked it, I told them they need to do it. I asked how long it would take, the guy says I donno maybe 1/2 hour at most. my response was "Maybe you should ask a tech, its a base model cobalt" he comes back on the phone and says, "OK, prob more like an hour" lol.

I would do it myself, but I have been without it now for a couple weeks, and my job has me traveling next week and I need to get my wheels balanced and rotated but town fair tire wont do it with a missing wheel stud.

So the dealer just called me to inform me they do not carry any Wheel studs and would have to ORDER one. I talked to them and was able to convince them to let me bring one in from a auto parts store

 

Dude, the dealer doesn't have studs??? They are the same exact studs that go on at least half of the cars for GM!! Studs break all the time, and they don't have any? I would be pissed at that one.

I did mine at my dad's dealership, and it took me about 30 minutes, and that includes waiting for the parts dept to get me the stud.