i have a few questions?

i ordered diamond pistons standerd bore and ring set with no coatings, cometic headgasket and ARP headstuds...

is there anything else i need? i know i have to drop the pan. and i have gm silicone on order per the dealership!

my main question is this... do i have to drop the crank? cant you just pull the head and pop the pistons out the top with something long and skinny squeezing by the crank?

and do i need new rod cap bolts? if so anyone have the part #?

also, i have seen a few builds were coating were used and they were not there after just a few hundred miles one being ravenss motor... so they were not purchased for 225 extra...

any help will be appreciated...


UPDATE:


things i have acguired:

 

You don't have to pull the crank, do exactly like you said, just pull the head and push the pistons out. Yes you need rod cap bolts, ask your dealer, I don't have the number off hand.

 

thank you so much... thats exactly what i wanted to hear




UPDATE

decided to build motor while waiting for kit















































this was so easy please dont anyone be affraid to build there own motor... i have been a mech for 3 yrs but pretty much lived in the garage growing up with pops...


but if you have ever done a head gasket let me tell you this car is so ******* simple to work on its a joke

 

NP. Call me if you need any other help. I'll PM you my cell #.

 

will do... pm replied!

 

the bolts on your cams need to be replaced, if you want to make your life easy taking the chain off

also why not throw a neutral balance delete or shafts in while ur at it

 

well i plan on staying on stock cams so i dont really plan on spinning the motor past 7250 and i will be shifting at 7000... so really no need

i will port the head though...

 

the piston swap is something i plan on doing... what's the how-to on the neutral balance shaft delete?

 

Assembly lube..check
Ring compressor ...check

 

make sure to post a how to! haha

 

check
check
arp assy lube check lol

actually i am going to seens how this car has been out for almost 4yrs and no-one has yet

 

If you make a how to, I will to you for the best how-to on the internetz!

 

wouldnt the cylinder walls need some work ?

 

Need to have the glaze taken off them, moreso if there was any oil getting into the CC.

Just saw this thread...

Black RTV works fine on the oilpan. You'll also need any red gel type sealant if you remove the cams from the head, for the cam end plates.

You do not have to drop the crank. You should however plastigage the connecting rod bearings and replace if out of spec.

Yes, you need new rod cap bolts....part number should be 90537293 I think(have that part number written down but didn't label what it was ). Other TTY bolts that should be replaced are head bolts (ARP ones that I see you have ordered replace these), cam gear bolts and crank pulley bolts.

Coatings are optional, they run fine both with and without them.

 

thanks...

i forgot to mention i will be flex honing the cyl and replacing rod bolts and cam gear i didnt know about crankshaft

flex hone



is there any kinda upgrade like arp so i dont have to use stockers?

is there a book like chilton or something so i dont have any problems setting up the timing chain

 

I've used Total Seal's recommended ring gaps for forged pistons when gapping the rings with 0 problems so far on the last engine I did. I didn't for my own engine which is getting new rings hopefully today gapped to those specs, I used slightly wider than stock gaps and its getting more blowby than what I like. If you run lotsa boost though ~25psi+ you might wanna open up gaps a little further though and build a better PCV system. Just imho.

 

is there any upgraded rod bolts i can purchase?
and what about a chilton's

 

cam gear bolts are 17 bucks a pair


valve cover gasket is 34 bucks. replace this one.

 

cool thanks

 

Use the LSJ build book for the timing chain. The crank mark should be at the 5 o clock position, the intake cam mark at 1-2 oclock and exhaust cam at 10-11.

If removing cams, do not use the build books for installing the cam sensor. Theres a misprint in one of them. Line up the marks for the cam sensor and install it while number 4 cylinder is at TDC compression.

 

thank you...

 

Its honestly really hard to screw up the timing if you line up the colored links to the marks on the cams.

One thing to watch though is after you install the head, if you can't get a cam gear to bolt up onto the cam, you probably have the cam installed 180 degrees out of whack. Before moving the cam into the correct position, make sure none of the pistons are at TDC. When you have the crank gear at the 5 o clock position for timing chain install, 1 and 4 will be at TDC, so be careful, do not rotate the cam too much until the pistons are dropped below the deck.

 

so you file fitted the rings? and to what clearences? it will be in the specs with the piston right.. i will be running 25 lbs at maximum probably 22-24

and what did you do for a hone? or did you not hone? i talked to total seal they said a 280 grit then finish with a platue brush or a 400 grit with a six stroke? i think im just gonna do the 400 grit six stroke! what do you think about this?

 

good luck... has anyone at all found a max hp for the stock rods yet?

 

Yes, file fitted the rings to the specs on the card they sent you (djt81185 has the last spec card I used so I couldn't tell you the exact numbers)

No glaze on my first rebuild (it was done at less then 15k miles), machine shop did the others. I planned on breaking the glaze with a 220 grit which most local guys here recommend as it works on pretty much any type ring whether its iron or moly.

Those total seal recommendations might be for gapless rings. The ones you are getting with the pistons are probably not gapless, the should be classic race file fit.