Hello,

I am new to the fourm and about to purchase the SS as my Dealership stated they have 2 coming in the week of the 15th, i was wondering if you anyone could post what they paid for theres so i have some information on where to start when i try to neg. the price with the dealership.
Totals before tax will work!
Thanks

 

With my sunroof and side curtain airbags, the price was around 23,200 but we settled on 22,700

 

The information that I have seen shows only $800 in markup on the SS Supercharged (it's not an SS, it's an SS/SC, nobody owns an SS yet) and even less on the other models.


Just a question here, not to incite a riot, but why is it that MSRP isn't a good price on a vehicle?

Because it is theoretically possible to negotiate a better deal?

Because the salespeople make too much money?

Because you don't want to pay that much for the item? (then pick a less expensive item?!?)

I've been doing this for quite some time and it still strikes me as odd that people always want the "best deal" even though they still don't know if what they got was the "best deal" when they drive away. All they got was sold on the deal and not sold on the car.

You never go to a doctor and hear "we've got reconstructive heart surgery on special this month." What you hear is "you have problems and you need this", and guess what, everybody pays the same there, no good deal or anything. And believe me, doctors get paid a whole lot more than I do.

Nobody's ever gone into a grocery store and said "the price on this bag of pretzels says $2.50, what's your best price?" or "the market down the street is selling apples for 25 cents a piece, can you beat that?" Okay, they did that when I was in Italy, but not at the Wally World down the street.

But time and time again, people walk into my dealership, ask for products at less than market value and still think I'm the one who's going to steal something from them.

What does that $25,318 car look like, a big yellow paperweight? Aside from the price of the vehicle, what did that extra five hundred bucks earn you a month? Did you even ask what the payment would be before you asked for a "better deal"? Then how did you know the deal you had wasn't good enough?

You pay the government way more than 12 bucks a month, and you've never even thought of asking for a tax break, have you?

I'm baffled.

Villain

 

Your baffled why people negotiate ?

 

No, why people think that negotiating actually gets them a better deal. In this case we're not talking about hundreds or even thousands of dollars. We're talking about twelve dollars a month. So the car was worth $312 a month but not $324?!?

What you implied when you asked for a better deal was "I am willing to pay $312 a month for that car, but not $324."

That's what I don't understand.

If we were talking about three grand off, then that's a whole other story, but 500 bucks. Please. All you succeeded in doing was taking money out of the salespersons pocket, and he or she is the person who did everything they could to get you the vehicle you wanted before anybody else got theirs.

That's what I don't understand.

Villain

 

Well if i can save $12 a month..then why not. Theres gas money. So if you walked into a dealer and you wanted to buy a car, and it was 25,000, but you could get it down to 23,500, you wouldnt take the deal because of your beliefs ?


Im baffled

 

You poor victimized salesperson.

You told people who don't like the price to buy someting else. I say if you don't like the negotiating, get a different job.

I'd way rather invest $12 a month than give it to someone like you who feels they deserve it.

All that said and done, my Cobalt SS (no need to get **** and put the SC in because EVERYONE knows what I'm talking about):

List: $27,125 CDN
I'm paying: $23,600

My poor salesman.. he must be going hungry tonight.

 

Now we're talking about more than $500 aren't we?

But what you're going to say is something along the lines of "where do you differentiate between $500 and $1500?" My problem is that you probably didn't ask what the payment was before you went to $23,500. At $25,000 you never knew the payment, all you thought was "I want more and I want to pay less to get it."

What you said was "I don't know how much it costs me, but it's too much."

And somehow that makes sense to you? That is what I don't understand.

Want a little secret. You can't buy an SS/SC right now for $1500 off sticker. You can buy it for as much as $800 off sticker. And now we're up to $15 a month. How bout I just mail you the $15 and you play nice with your salesman who will often get less than your monthly payment for doing you a favor. (and you wonder why the economy is so screwed up here)

Villain

My beliefs are well beyond your comprehension, I'm positive of it from your reply. They were also never mentioned in this thread. So please, let's not bring those into question.

 

Alright douchebag, enough of your crap, If I can get my payment $1 cheaper a month, i'll do it, im putting myself through college so every dollar counts, you honestly sound like you have sand in your vagina, every last one of your posts is just you trying to make yourself seem better than everyone and coming off as an *******, other than trying to ACT like an intelligent guy, every other post when someone says Cobalt SS, you have to act stupid and talk about the 2.4L thats not even in production when you know full well what they ment, your a net nerd, get off the computer with your giant posts and stupid online mannerisms (ex. "*shrug*") and get a life. loser.

All he asked is what everyones paying for there car, not why you think your so ****** smart when your nothin but a dick, im assuming you sell cars, we all know it takes a real education to get that job. Even as I was first responding to this post I knew your ass would chime in.

 

SO just answer the question, if you were offered az 250/month payment or 230/month..you would take the 250 because you wanna take a stand ?

 

I'm assuming you're talking in hypotheticals. If I were offered the two, I would take the less expensive one.

But you still don't seem to grasp my point.

He's not talking hypotheticals. He was never offered a payment and a cheaper alternative. He wanted less before he knew how much it cost him.

Now there was no need to use foul language or attack somebody. Was there? If anybody I should be the one who's upset, you were the one who brought my beliefs into the picture when it wasn't mentioned earlier.

And if you had asked what the payment was and then said it had to be $1 less a month you would have been well within what I consider to be reasonable. I have a budget myself, and if it doesn't fit my budget then I will do what it takes to make it fit within that budget or I don't purchase the product. But we weren't talking about budgets, we were talking about prices. I seem to understand that, but obviously you're not.

Budgets involve payments. Prices have nothing to do with budgets. He wondered what the price was, not the payment. So take your $1 a month and buy some mouthwash. Your college professors will appreciate it.

Villain

 

Budgets dictate what payments I would like to make, if you cant figure out a payment in your head give or take a few dollars and have to sit there with a salesman and a calculator and try to figure out payments you are a retard. Im done with you, you're ******* clown shoes. If i need mouthwash i'll make it worth it, **** you and your beliefs

 

If I'm such a loser, why am I the one driving a Cobalt, a Blazer, AND a Tahoe and you're the one trying to save $1 a month?

I have two college degrees that I paid for myself. When it came down to it, I liked this job better than I liked making more money in a crappier job. So I guess you're right, I'm the douchebag.

If you'd meant a Honda and said a Toyota, that wouldn't be a problem. But I am not responsible for stating facts that upset you.

While I may be a "net nerd" at least I can spell. And if that upsets you, maybe you should rethink this whole "college" thing you're so proud of.

Villain

Whose name is Villain for a reason, you didn't think that would make me a nice guy, did you?

 

Here we go with you trying to correct my internet spelling because I dont double check what I type, you wanna talk about cars ? Look in my garage and theres more money in cars than you'll ever see in life. I may always wanna save a buck, but I bet ive got a hell of a lot more money than you that ive made on my own.

 

Im done with you, you try to act so mature but your arguing with someone over the internet, keep responding, but im not gonna respond back.

p.s. you didnt wanna make more money at a crappier job ? hahaha ive heard that a million times from people who COULDNT MAKE IT at the jobs they aspired for.

and i cant spell ? "rethink" is seperated , its supposed to be "re-think"...whose the smart guy now ?

 

Then ask for payments before you negotiate, and then negotiate on payments.

I'd be willing to bet your hard earned $1 that you negotiated on price and got your head ripped off in payments. That's what 90% of people do, because they are so fixated on price and the "best deal." I'll bet you never even thought of negotiating finance rates, you probably even bought the "protective shell coating" option.

So let me ask you if you can figure payments so easily, why haven't you posted in those pages. Payments include three things, all three can be changed to fit whatever number you need. Most people do not know that. But if you do, then everybody must, right?

(I'm f*ing clown shoes? That doesn't even make sense)

Villain

 

your not even a clown, you are the clowns shoes, i wont respond to you bitching, but stupidity deserves punishment



goodbye, see you in another post !

 

Yet here you are responding?

Villain

 

I hope your questions got answered before all of the name calling happened.

What should you expect to pay? Sticker.

If the sticker price fits your budget then you're on the right car. If it doesn't fit your budget then don't expect to make it by negotiating price.

It may work on some other vehicles, but it won't work on a Cobalt.

Villain

 

Look at what I paid. There are facts RIGHT infront of you that you are wrong.

And PRICE is important, not just payments. Price is what payments are calculated off of. If an interest rate is fixed, price is the only negotiating point unless leasing and you have a flexible buyout.

 

Finally someone said it!!

I've also heard enough of this know nothing who thinks he is superior to all.

 

Guys, stop acting like 5 year olds.
If you guys have personal issues resolve them via AIM or emails. Basing each other adds no value to this thread or the site.

Step away form the keyboards calm down

 

Mine was $23,045 U.S. I paid $20,500 GMcard discount, free sunroof and XM, and the 500 I got the dealer to take off.

 

That is an excellent, and valid point "Price is what payments are calculated off of". Everyone that has performed even a little research into purchasing a vehicle will know not to fall for the old... what payment can you afford crap. This will be my 4th new vehicle in 10 years and it wasn't until my last purchase, that I grasped that concept. The are dozens of ways that a vehicle salesman can, and will "twist" the numbers around to fit your monthly payment, while in fact charging you more for the vehicle, and I have been taken by almost all of them. DON'T EVER negotiate a payment... ALWAYS negotiate a price and then deal with what options are available to make the payments acceptable to you (Deal for better interest rate, look into extending loan length, lease/buyback etc). Go into the dealership with the necessary tool(Research). Ensure that you walk in with, at minimum, a knowledge of the MSRP and approx dealer invoice cost. Even if you ignore the other factors such as Factory holdback (Generally 2%-4%), Factory to Dealer incentives and other rebates, this will be enough to ensure that you get a descent deal. With these previously mentioned, included in the calculation, as well as the understanding that the dealer/salesperson need a profit, you should walk away satisfied that you weren't taken advantage of.

That's just my two cents, though based on previous experience and research.

Good Luck.

 

If you negotiate price, what do you get as far as knowledge?

Nothing? You still don't know the payment.

Dealerships can twist whatever number they want to until they are blue in the face. What does it matter, so can the doctor performing heart surgery.

The simplest thing I can tell you, and this is from all of the people I see coming into my dealership making the same mistakes that inevitably some of you will make, is that you will walk out of the dealership paying more a month than you had originally wanted to and you will regret it.

It's called buyers remorse and I see it every day.

In the last message he did say to arm yourself with information.

PLEASE BY ALL MEANS INFORM YOURSELF.

That is what this is.

If you negotiate on price, do you then know if it fits into your monthly budget?

No, no no and hell no.

Even the most experienced car buyer will tell you that if you negotiate on price and not on payment you're still leaving yourself to get screwed.

There's only so many numbers involved in the equation. If you want to pay less for the vehicle then tell them that when they tell you what it costs you to own it.

If you're expecting $250 a month with $0 down and you haggle the salesman from $25,000 to $23,500, it doesn't matter what math I throw at it, you're not getting a $250 monthly payment.

(23,500 / 72 = 326.28 and this isn't even counting interest)

Here's a fact that everyone is missing. YOU STILL HAVE TO SIGN THE PAPERWORK.

If you don't want to go to 72 months, don't sign the paperwork,

If you don't want your payments higher than $326.28, then don't sign the paperwork. But you could have saved yourself a whole lot of trouble by asking what the payment is before you argued about price.

But you're not going to know exactly what payment you qualify for until they tell you what apr they quote you with.

Now I don't know the laws in your particular state, but in North Carolina a dealer is limited to within 3 points of the approval by the bank. Which means if Wachovia or Bank of America approve your loan for $23,500 at 4.9% the dealership can charge a max of 7.9% (and they will try to "hold points" on you, it's how they make a living).

Back to what I said before: IF YOU DON'T WANT A 7.9% FINANCE RATE, THEN DON'T SIGN THE PAPERWORK.

But at least now you know that $23,500 for 60 months at 4.9% is 442.40 and nowhere near your expected payment of $250.

Now when the dealer comes back at you with $442.40 you say "I was trying to be around $250" and they will work with you to get you closer to your payment.

Better yet, if you tell them you want to be around $250 (or whatever payment you were comfortable with) they will know before hand that you need to be looking at an LS instead of the SS/SC (because even our "twisting" can't get $23,500 down to that payment even if we go 84 months).

Instead, people instinctively negotiate price and it take twice as long.

So in the example before, you take a test drive, they write up the deal, you negotiate, they come back to $23,500, you agree, they check your credit, the submit to bank, they sit you down and tell you what your payment is.

This normally averages about three hours. (and let's not get started on how long it takes. We know it takes a long time, there's nothing we can do about it)

Now you sit down and the guy (or girl) tells you $442.40 and suggests GAP and an Extended Warranty (if you don't know, ask) which takes your payment to $480.05 (on the negotiated $23,500).

Worst case scenario:
Now you pick up your jaw from the floor and are all pissed off at the dealersip because "they are trying to rip you off." You storm off and tell your friends how "horrible" the dealership is, and now the dealership has lost two customers.

Best case scenario:
You tell them you want $250. They tell you to look at a LS instead of an SS/SC and you have to do another Demo, they'll quote you a price, you'll forget to negotiate, because now you know to negotiate payment instead of price (and you will, I see it every day) and you walk out at $327.87 (because anything is better than $480.05 a month). In this situation the dealership actually held a point and you just signed up at 5.9 for 60 months financing $17,000. This will take another 3 hours taking your total to 6, and you drove home in less of a vehicle than you expected paying more than you expected and you're still pissed off at the dealership.

How about this one.

You walk into the dealership and say you want a cobalt at $250 a month. The salesman suggests a nice LS Coupe with a sunroof and you take a test drive. The show you numbers because you don't negotiate price. You sign the numbers page "upon agreed payment" and they check your credit, show you a payment of $320.03 on 4.9 for 60 months. You negotiate payment, not price and say you want $250 a month and they come back with $264.04 for 3.75 at 72 months. You drive off happy in a nice vehicle that you like with a payment that fits your budget. AND YOU DIDN'T NEGOTIATE PRICE.

I hope this helps, I'm not trying to start fights or call names. I'm not trying to make the dealership any money. I'm trying to educate you on the entire process, so you'll not make the same mistakes everybody else is making.

Villain

Who is only trying to help by stating what is obvious to him.