Suspension squeek when cold.
Suspension squeek when cold.
Two questions...
1.) Has anyone else encountered a squeek/groan from their front suspension when its cold? My car has 190 miles on it and it went from 60's when I bought it back to teens again. When I go over a bump it makes a deep sqeeek on the rebound. It kinda sounds like a front door of a house being pushed open slowly.
I know its not tire rub because I went to the parking lot and did some full lock-to-lock circles. Also when the car is stationary and I try to bounce the front it can't make it do it...
2.) Do these cars have urethane bushing from the factory?
I ask #2 because it sounds like my MR2 when I put an Energy master kit on it and didn't use enough silicone grease on the bushings where they met the sway bars. Only seems to do it when the temp is < 30oF out.
1.) Has anyone else encountered a squeek/groan from their front suspension when its cold? My car has 190 miles on it and it went from 60's when I bought it back to teens again. When I go over a bump it makes a deep sqeeek on the rebound. It kinda sounds like a front door of a house being pushed open slowly.
I know its not tire rub because I went to the parking lot and did some full lock-to-lock circles. Also when the car is stationary and I try to bounce the front it can't make it do it...
2.) Do these cars have urethane bushing from the factory?
I ask #2 because it sounds like my MR2 when I put an Energy master kit on it and didn't use enough silicone grease on the bushings where they met the sway bars. Only seems to do it when the temp is < 30oF out.
Glad I'm not the only one.
It almost sounds like a plastic shield dragging on he ground when it does it. Hopefully as the car wears in a bit it'll quit doing it by next Winter. Just one of those things.
It almost sounds like a plastic shield dragging on he ground when it does it. Hopefully as the car wears in a bit it'll quit doing it by next Winter. Just one of those things.
You know... Pay CLOSE attention. I might be the only one though...
My suspension might be squeaking a little. I'm thinking that it's more along the lines of the crappy hard foam inserts they put between the body and interior panels.
I had one door panel off earlier in the year and those foam insert things are JUNK!!! They are glued but mine just fell right off. I wouldn't doubt that those are the culprit for many people.
My suspension might be squeaking a little. I'm thinking that it's more along the lines of the crappy hard foam inserts they put between the body and interior panels.
I had one door panel off earlier in the year and those foam insert things are JUNK!!! They are glued but mine just fell right off. I wouldn't doubt that those are the culprit for many people.
So I'm not the only one... good (I guess). I am stopping by the dealer again today, because the last time i brought it up it was warm and they couldn't get it to do it (thus thinking i am nit picking at something silly). I am planning on lowering the car, and the dealer said that if I do it, they will not do any work concerning the squeak after I do it, even if I documented the complaint beforehand.
I will be sure to do an update when i get back. I also thought that it may be the sway bar bushings, so I was going to grease them up when I put the springs on. But, if I can get the dealer to do it, why not eh?
I will be sure to do an update when i get back. I also thought that it may be the sway bar bushings, so I was going to grease them up when I put the springs on. But, if I can get the dealer to do it, why not eh?
i noticed it this morning on my way to work. its been really nice and then today it got really cold and i noticed a squeak. figured it was normal cause my 05 SS had alot of squeaks and rattles aswell.
So, i was on my way to the dealer, and the suspension quit squeaking. IDK wtf is the deal. I think I have it narrowed down to the sway bar bushing needing some grease. Thats exactly what it sounds like to me. So, I guess I will look into it more next week when I do my springs.
Let us know how it turns out if you lube up the sway bushings.
I'm also pretty damn sure its the sway bar too. I say that because when I'm parking in the garage here @ work it does it pretty bad as one wheel hits the hump in the cement on the corners. Mine is LOUD if its cold enough, like loud enough I can hear it over my radio. Not a huge deal, but **** the car has 190 miles on it and sounds like a raggedy pile
I hear it from the BACK passenger corner sometimes too.
I'm also pretty damn sure its the sway bar too. I say that because when I'm parking in the garage here @ work it does it pretty bad as one wheel hits the hump in the cement on the corners. Mine is LOUD if its cold enough, like loud enough I can hear it over my radio. Not a huge deal, but **** the car has 190 miles on it and sounds like a raggedy pile
I hear it from the BACK passenger corner sometimes too.
Every single SS/TC owner I've asked who lives in a cold winter climate experiences the same thing. Mine did it all winter, went away when we saw 60s and 70s last week, and now that it's back below freezing it's returned.
I had this happen to me a while back when it was really cold one morning going over a speed bump. I asked my tech at the dealer about it and they told me it's normal. It's the bushings in the suspension. It WILL sound like a tire rubbed or something, but it's not. It will also only do it in cold weather.
Don't worry about it. You're fine and it will go away once it warms up outside. If it does it in warm weather then I'd check it out.
Don't worry about it. You're fine and it will go away once it warms up outside. If it does it in warm weather then I'd check it out.
I had this happen to me a while back when it was really cold one morning going over a speed bump. I asked my tech at the dealer about it and they told me it's normal. It's the bushings in the suspension. It WILL sound like a tire rubbed or something, but it's not. It will also only do it in cold weather.
Don't worry about it. You're fine and it will go away once it warms up outside. If it does it in warm weather then I'd check it out.
Don't worry about it. You're fine and it will go away once it warms up outside. If it does it in warm weather then I'd check it out.
Yah, and no offense to other owners... but I think I'll be trying to figure this one out
Feel free to "deal with it" if thats your MO.
This might not be a "high quality" automobile, but this still cost me quite a bit for the poor man I am.
Feel free to "deal with it" if thats your MO. This might not be a "high quality" automobile, but this still cost me quite a bit for the poor man I am.
Well as far as the comment of buying a MS3 for quality, I've looked on the MS3 boards and the Civic Si boards, seems they have the same problem too.
I have the same problem myself...I thought it was bushings so I lubed the hell out of every accessible bushing and mount with any rubber or urethane i could find (and the upper strut mounts too) with silicone lube, but it did not go away. I'm starting to wonder if it's the shocks themselves.
I have the same problem myself...I thought it was bushings so I lubed the hell out of every accessible bushing and mount with any rubber or urethane i could find (and the upper strut mounts too) with silicone lube, but it did not go away. I'm starting to wonder if it's the shocks themselves.
Do we have gas shocks or oil shocks? If it's oil, then it's just like almost any other substance on earth. When it's cold, the oil in the shocks may be nowhere near viscous enough to provide a smooth and squeaky-free bound/rebound dampening. I find that after extended periods of driving in cold weather, my squeaks go away or a least get very quiet... hm.
Do we have gas shocks or oil shocks? If it's oil, then it's just like almost any other substance on earth. When it's cold, the oil in the shocks may be nowhere near viscous enough to provide a smooth and squeaky-free bound/rebound dampening. I find that after extended periods of driving in cold weather, my squeaks go away or a least get very quiet... hm.
My car does it to , GM just put out an updated TSB on front end noise . Enjoy the long read lol.
Service Information
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt | Cobalt, Pursuit (VIN A) Service Manual | View All Bulletins | Document ID: 2239750
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#04-03-08-006D: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns - Clunk, Thump, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repairs) - (Feb 24, 2009)
Subject: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns -- Clunk, Thump, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repair)
Models: 2005-2009 Chevrolet Cobalt (Including SS)
2006-2009 Chevrolet HHR (Including SS)
2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)
2007-2009 Pontiac G5
2003-2007 Saturn ION
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This bulletin is being revised to add Condition #3. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-08-006C (Section 03 - Suspension).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This bulletin provides information on seven different steering/front suspension noise conditions.
Condition #1
Some customers may comment on a rattle or knocking noise that is heard in the front of the vehicle while driving at low speeds 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph). This condition may be more noticeable while making a slow turn or on a loose/rough surface.
This condition can be duplicated by the technician using the following procedure:
On a rough or loose surface (i.e., gravel parking lot), make a sweeping turn (either direction) at 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph to load the steering column, I-shaft and steering rack/gear mechanisms. The testing on a rough or loose surface will allow the wheels to oscillate slightly and will make the rattle/knocking noise more evident and repeatable.
Release the steering wheel while making the turn to take load off of steering components. This should initiate the rattle/shudder noise, which is generated by backlash in the steering assembly as it is in a no-load float condition.
Remove the 60 amp EPS fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block.
Test the vehicle as in Step 1. Since the EPS motor is no longer powered, only the I-shaft and steering gear/rack will be loaded as you make the turn. If you hear the rattle/knocking noise during the turn, then the noise is being generated by the backlash within the steering column (assist motor gear mechanism).
Replace the 60 amp EPS fuse and repeat Steps 1 and 2 to verify that the rattle/knocking noise disappears when turning (loading steering mechanism) and can only be heard when releasing the steering wheel.
Correction #1
If the steering column is identified as the source of the rattle/knocking noise in the above test, replace the steering column.
Important: The noise in the steering column is generated from the metal to plastic gear backlash of the assist motor mechanism and will have a different sound than that from the steering gear. If the customer comments that they still hear a noise, it may be a different sound from either the I-shaft or the steering rack.
If the steering column is not identified as the source of the rattle/knocking in the above test, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Parts Information #1
For part numbers and usage of the column, see Steering Column Kit in Group 06.518 of the appropriate Parts Catalog. Saturn Retailers should refer to the appropriate model year Parts & Illustration Catalog for the vehicle.
Warranty Information #1
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E7680
Column Assembly, Steering - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #2 (Chevrolet Cobalt, HHR and Pontiac G5 Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk or thump noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road surfaces. This noise will typically occur when the front suspension is returning to the upward position after a hard downward stroke, such as after driving through a large rut or pothole.
Cause #2
This condition may be caused by the jounce bumper slamming into the upper spring seat because it is not retained in the correct up position. The jounce bumper loses position due to oil being deposited onto its retention fingers. The oil is from the strut leaking.
Correction #2
Inspect the front strut(s) for evidence of oil. The leak may be slight but will still cause the concern. If oil is present, replace the affected strut, jounce bumper and dust boot (shield). Before reassembling the strut assembly, glue the new jounce bumper and new dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat using the steps listed below. To further confirm this concern, the shield/bumper will easily slide up and down the strut shaft.
Clean the surface area of the upper spring seat using fine sandpaper.
Apply a light coat *of 3M™ Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396, to the top of the dust boot (shield) on the inside edge and to the top of the bumper. Allow to dry 10 minutes.
Glue the bumper to the inside of the dust boot (shield) as shown. Use *3M™ Duramix™ Super Fast Adhesive, P/N 04747. Allow to cure thoroughly 5-10 minutes at room temperature.
Apply a light coat of *3M™ Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396, to the top of the dust boot (shield) and to the upper spring seat surface. Allow to dry 10 minutes.
Glue the dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat as shown using the above recommended adhesive. Allow to cure thoroughly.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.
Parts Information #2
Part Number
Description
Qty
Material Allowance
21992520
Shield, Frt Suspension Strut
-
-
22712118
Bumper, Frt Suspension Strut
-
-
04747
3M™ Duramix™ Super Fast Adhesive
1
$22.00
06396
3M™ Automotive Adhesion Promoter
2
$4.00
For part numbers and usage of the strut, see Strut Kit in Group 07.345 of the appropriate Parts Catalog.
Warranty Information #2
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E9478*
Replace Front Strut and Secure Bumper and Shield to Spring Seat
1.5 hrs
Add
To Perform Repair on Other Side
1.3 hrs
Add
For alignment times, refer to operation E2020 and add the applicable times to the regular hours.
* This is a unique labor operation for bulletin use only. The number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
Condition #3
Some customers may comment on a clunk/pop type noise coming from the front of the vehicle when driving over rough road surfaces.
Cause #3
This noise may be caused by the stabilizer shaft link ball stud becoming contaminated from moisture.
Correction #3
Inspect the front stabilizer shaft links for damage. To isolate the noise, the link can be also be disconnected from the stabilizer shaft. If the link appears damaged or if the noise goes away when disconnected, replace the link with the revised part.
Parts Information #3
Part Number
Description
Usage
Qty
20784686
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (300 mm Shaft)
2006-2009 HHR (FE1, FE3)
2005-2009 Cobalt (FE1, FE3)
2005-2006 Pursuit (FE1, FE3)
2007-2009 G5 (FE1, FE3)
2003-2007 ION (FE1, FE2, FE3)
2
20784687
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (250 mm Shaft w/Washer)
2008-2009 HHR (FE5)
2005-2009 Cobalt (FE5)
2007-2009 G5 (FE5)
2
20784688
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (250 mm Shaft)
2006-2009 HHR (FE1, FE3)
2005-2009 Cobalt (FE5)
2005-2006 Pursuit (FE5)
2007-2009 G5 (FE5)
2
Warranty Information #3
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E2147
Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement (Both Sides)
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #4
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition can also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once for every 90° of steering wheel rotation in either direction. This clunk noise may also be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel.
The following are characteristics of this noise:
• This noise is very random.
• This noise is independent of the steering wheel angle and independent of the bumpiness of the road.
• This noise is a low frequency dull one and can be felt in your feet.
• This noise can normally be heard from the driver seat.
• This noise can be felt upon touching the steering gear from outside of the vehicle.
Note: You might also notice a slight scrub-type noise when turning the wheel back and forth. This type of noise is considered normal and repairs will not eliminate it.
Cause #4
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft.
Correction #4
Important: DO NOT replace the steering gear or steering column assembly.
Replace the intermediate shaft.
Important: If the vehicle has already had a steering intermediate shaft replaced for a similar noise concern that the dealer duplicated, determine from the customer if the noise went away for a period of time and came back, or if the service shaft made no change. If the noise was gone for a period of time and came back, have the dealer replace the shaft again to verify we do not have a defective service shaft.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Parts Information #4
Part Number
Description
15800140
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (Cobalt/G5/Pursuit)
15799676
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (ION)
22730246
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (HHR)
Warranty Information #4
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #5
Some customers may comment on a rattle/clunk type noise coming from the steering column when driving over bumps.
Correction #5
The following steps have been found to be very effective in removing this condition.
Check for the possibility of the PCM and the TCM rattling/clunking together. If there is contact between these two modules, insulate the modules from each other using a small piece of foam.
Check that the retaining clip on the engine coolant surge tank is fully seated. If not, push down to seat.
Rattles/clunks in this area of the engine compartment may be heard as coming from the steering column while driving.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Warranty Information #5
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E9458*
Repair to Correct Rattle/Clunk Noise in Front of Vehicle
0.2 hr
* This is a unique labor operation number for bulletin use only. The number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
Condition #6 (FE1 Suspension Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk, thump or rattle noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road conditions or when braking.
Cause #6
This condition may be caused by the lower control arm rubber bushing (rear) coming out of its steel sleeve (1). This will cause the lower control arm to make hard contact (2) with the body structure. This condition may be more prevalent in regions that use road salt during the winter months.
Correction #6
If the rubber bushing has moved out of the steel sleeve, replace the lower control arm bushing. Do not replace the bushing if it is still centered in the steel sleeve.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose using chassis ears to identify the source of the noise.
Parts Information #6
Part Number
Description
25984679
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (Cobalt/G5/HHR/Pursuit)
22688205
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (ION)
Warranty Information #6
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E3550
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Right) - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
E3551
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Left) - Replace
E3557
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Both) - Replace
Condition #7 (Saturn ION Only)
Some customers may comment on a squeak, rattle, pop, or clunk noise coming from the front of the vehicle during suspension movement.
Cause #7
This condition may be caused by the interface between the front stabilizer shaft, the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and the front stabilizer shaft mounting clamp.
Correction #7
Replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), if necessary, using the following procedure.
Verify the customer comment. Use Chassis Ear (SA9217NE or J39570) or a similar tool to determine the source of the noise. Refer to Noise Diagnosis - Front Suspension in SI.
If the noise is coming from either the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) or the clamps:
Important: Check the Service Parts Identification label in the rear compartment (trunk) to determine the vehicle's suspension system type, then obtain the correct insulators (bushings) corresponding to that suspension system type.
• On vehicles built after VIN breakpoint 4Z125195, replace both front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings). Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
• On vehicles built up to and including VIN 4Z125195, replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and clamps. Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
Verify the repair by repeating Step 1.
Parts Information #7
Part Number
Description
Qty
15820162
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2007 FE1 Suspension)
2
15820163
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2007 FE2 Suspension)
2
15820164
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2003-2007 FE3 Suspension)
2
22722387
Clamp, Front Stabilizer Shaft
2
Warranty Information #7
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E2180
Insulator and/or Bracket, Front Stabilizer Shaft - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #8
Some customers may comment on a whine/hum noise from the steering column while making right hand turns at 5-15 mph (8-24 km/h). A slight whine/hum noise is considered to be normal for EPS so it will be helpful to compare to another like vehicle. If the vehicle exhibits excessive feedback/noise when compared to another vehicle, follow the correction procedure below.
Correction #8
Important: DO NOT replace the steering column.
Pull the 60 amp steering fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block. If this eliminates the whine/hum concern, contact the Technical Assistance Center for further information in order to repair the vehicle. If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
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Service Information
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt | Cobalt, Pursuit (VIN A) Service Manual | View All Bulletins | Document ID: 2239750
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#04-03-08-006D: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns - Clunk, Thump, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repairs) - (Feb 24, 2009)
Subject: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns -- Clunk, Thump, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repair)
Models: 2005-2009 Chevrolet Cobalt (Including SS)
2006-2009 Chevrolet HHR (Including SS)
2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)
2007-2009 Pontiac G5
2003-2007 Saturn ION
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This bulletin is being revised to add Condition #3. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-08-006C (Section 03 - Suspension).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This bulletin provides information on seven different steering/front suspension noise conditions.
Condition #1
Some customers may comment on a rattle or knocking noise that is heard in the front of the vehicle while driving at low speeds 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph). This condition may be more noticeable while making a slow turn or on a loose/rough surface.
This condition can be duplicated by the technician using the following procedure:
On a rough or loose surface (i.e., gravel parking lot), make a sweeping turn (either direction) at 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph to load the steering column, I-shaft and steering rack/gear mechanisms. The testing on a rough or loose surface will allow the wheels to oscillate slightly and will make the rattle/knocking noise more evident and repeatable.
Release the steering wheel while making the turn to take load off of steering components. This should initiate the rattle/shudder noise, which is generated by backlash in the steering assembly as it is in a no-load float condition.
Remove the 60 amp EPS fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block.
Test the vehicle as in Step 1. Since the EPS motor is no longer powered, only the I-shaft and steering gear/rack will be loaded as you make the turn. If you hear the rattle/knocking noise during the turn, then the noise is being generated by the backlash within the steering column (assist motor gear mechanism).
Replace the 60 amp EPS fuse and repeat Steps 1 and 2 to verify that the rattle/knocking noise disappears when turning (loading steering mechanism) and can only be heard when releasing the steering wheel.
Correction #1
If the steering column is identified as the source of the rattle/knocking noise in the above test, replace the steering column.
Important: The noise in the steering column is generated from the metal to plastic gear backlash of the assist motor mechanism and will have a different sound than that from the steering gear. If the customer comments that they still hear a noise, it may be a different sound from either the I-shaft or the steering rack.
If the steering column is not identified as the source of the rattle/knocking in the above test, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Parts Information #1
For part numbers and usage of the column, see Steering Column Kit in Group 06.518 of the appropriate Parts Catalog. Saturn Retailers should refer to the appropriate model year Parts & Illustration Catalog for the vehicle.
Warranty Information #1
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E7680
Column Assembly, Steering - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #2 (Chevrolet Cobalt, HHR and Pontiac G5 Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk or thump noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road surfaces. This noise will typically occur when the front suspension is returning to the upward position after a hard downward stroke, such as after driving through a large rut or pothole.
Cause #2
This condition may be caused by the jounce bumper slamming into the upper spring seat because it is not retained in the correct up position. The jounce bumper loses position due to oil being deposited onto its retention fingers. The oil is from the strut leaking.
Correction #2
Inspect the front strut(s) for evidence of oil. The leak may be slight but will still cause the concern. If oil is present, replace the affected strut, jounce bumper and dust boot (shield). Before reassembling the strut assembly, glue the new jounce bumper and new dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat using the steps listed below. To further confirm this concern, the shield/bumper will easily slide up and down the strut shaft.
Clean the surface area of the upper spring seat using fine sandpaper.
Apply a light coat *of 3M™ Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396, to the top of the dust boot (shield) on the inside edge and to the top of the bumper. Allow to dry 10 minutes.
Glue the bumper to the inside of the dust boot (shield) as shown. Use *3M™ Duramix™ Super Fast Adhesive, P/N 04747. Allow to cure thoroughly 5-10 minutes at room temperature.
Apply a light coat of *3M™ Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396, to the top of the dust boot (shield) and to the upper spring seat surface. Allow to dry 10 minutes.
Glue the dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat as shown using the above recommended adhesive. Allow to cure thoroughly.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.
Parts Information #2
Part Number
Description
Qty
Material Allowance
21992520
Shield, Frt Suspension Strut
-
-
22712118
Bumper, Frt Suspension Strut
-
-
04747
3M™ Duramix™ Super Fast Adhesive
1
$22.00
06396
3M™ Automotive Adhesion Promoter
2
$4.00
For part numbers and usage of the strut, see Strut Kit in Group 07.345 of the appropriate Parts Catalog.
Warranty Information #2
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E9478*
Replace Front Strut and Secure Bumper and Shield to Spring Seat
1.5 hrs
Add
To Perform Repair on Other Side
1.3 hrs
Add
For alignment times, refer to operation E2020 and add the applicable times to the regular hours.
* This is a unique labor operation for bulletin use only. The number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
Condition #3
Some customers may comment on a clunk/pop type noise coming from the front of the vehicle when driving over rough road surfaces.
Cause #3
This noise may be caused by the stabilizer shaft link ball stud becoming contaminated from moisture.
Correction #3
Inspect the front stabilizer shaft links for damage. To isolate the noise, the link can be also be disconnected from the stabilizer shaft. If the link appears damaged or if the noise goes away when disconnected, replace the link with the revised part.
Parts Information #3
Part Number
Description
Usage
Qty
20784686
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (300 mm Shaft)
2006-2009 HHR (FE1, FE3)
2005-2009 Cobalt (FE1, FE3)
2005-2006 Pursuit (FE1, FE3)
2007-2009 G5 (FE1, FE3)
2003-2007 ION (FE1, FE2, FE3)
2
20784687
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (250 mm Shaft w/Washer)
2008-2009 HHR (FE5)
2005-2009 Cobalt (FE5)
2007-2009 G5 (FE5)
2
20784688
Link Asm., Front Stabilizer Shaft (250 mm Shaft)
2006-2009 HHR (FE1, FE3)
2005-2009 Cobalt (FE5)
2005-2006 Pursuit (FE5)
2007-2009 G5 (FE5)
2
Warranty Information #3
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E2147
Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement (Both Sides)
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #4
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition can also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once for every 90° of steering wheel rotation in either direction. This clunk noise may also be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel.
The following are characteristics of this noise:
• This noise is very random.
• This noise is independent of the steering wheel angle and independent of the bumpiness of the road.
• This noise is a low frequency dull one and can be felt in your feet.
• This noise can normally be heard from the driver seat.
• This noise can be felt upon touching the steering gear from outside of the vehicle.
Note: You might also notice a slight scrub-type noise when turning the wheel back and forth. This type of noise is considered normal and repairs will not eliminate it.
Cause #4
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft.
Correction #4
Important: DO NOT replace the steering gear or steering column assembly.
Replace the intermediate shaft.
Important: If the vehicle has already had a steering intermediate shaft replaced for a similar noise concern that the dealer duplicated, determine from the customer if the noise went away for a period of time and came back, or if the service shaft made no change. If the noise was gone for a period of time and came back, have the dealer replace the shaft again to verify we do not have a defective service shaft.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Parts Information #4
Part Number
Description
15800140
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (Cobalt/G5/Pursuit)
15799676
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (ION)
22730246
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (HHR)
Warranty Information #4
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #5
Some customers may comment on a rattle/clunk type noise coming from the steering column when driving over bumps.
Correction #5
The following steps have been found to be very effective in removing this condition.
Check for the possibility of the PCM and the TCM rattling/clunking together. If there is contact between these two modules, insulate the modules from each other using a small piece of foam.
Check that the retaining clip on the engine coolant surge tank is fully seated. If not, push down to seat.
Rattles/clunks in this area of the engine compartment may be heard as coming from the steering column while driving.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Warranty Information #5
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E9458*
Repair to Correct Rattle/Clunk Noise in Front of Vehicle
0.2 hr
* This is a unique labor operation number for bulletin use only. The number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
Condition #6 (FE1 Suspension Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk, thump or rattle noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road conditions or when braking.
Cause #6
This condition may be caused by the lower control arm rubber bushing (rear) coming out of its steel sleeve (1). This will cause the lower control arm to make hard contact (2) with the body structure. This condition may be more prevalent in regions that use road salt during the winter months.
Correction #6
If the rubber bushing has moved out of the steel sleeve, replace the lower control arm bushing. Do not replace the bushing if it is still centered in the steel sleeve.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose using chassis ears to identify the source of the noise.
Parts Information #6
Part Number
Description
25984679
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (Cobalt/G5/HHR/Pursuit)
22688205
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (ION)
Warranty Information #6
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E3550
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Right) - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
E3551
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Left) - Replace
E3557
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Both) - Replace
Condition #7 (Saturn ION Only)
Some customers may comment on a squeak, rattle, pop, or clunk noise coming from the front of the vehicle during suspension movement.
Cause #7
This condition may be caused by the interface between the front stabilizer shaft, the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and the front stabilizer shaft mounting clamp.
Correction #7
Replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), if necessary, using the following procedure.
Verify the customer comment. Use Chassis Ear (SA9217NE or J39570) or a similar tool to determine the source of the noise. Refer to Noise Diagnosis - Front Suspension in SI.
If the noise is coming from either the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) or the clamps:
Important: Check the Service Parts Identification label in the rear compartment (trunk) to determine the vehicle's suspension system type, then obtain the correct insulators (bushings) corresponding to that suspension system type.
• On vehicles built after VIN breakpoint 4Z125195, replace both front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings). Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
• On vehicles built up to and including VIN 4Z125195, replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and clamps. Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
Verify the repair by repeating Step 1.
Parts Information #7
Part Number
Description
Qty
15820162
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2007 FE1 Suspension)
2
15820163
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2007 FE2 Suspension)
2
15820164
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2003-2007 FE3 Suspension)
2
22722387
Clamp, Front Stabilizer Shaft
2
Warranty Information #7
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E2180
Insulator and/or Bracket, Front Stabilizer Shaft - Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
Condition #8
Some customers may comment on a whine/hum noise from the steering column while making right hand turns at 5-15 mph (8-24 km/h). A slight whine/hum noise is considered to be normal for EPS so it will be helpful to compare to another like vehicle. If the vehicle exhibits excessive feedback/noise when compared to another vehicle, follow the correction procedure below.
Correction #8
Important: DO NOT replace the steering column.
Pull the 60 amp steering fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block. If this eliminates the whine/hum concern, contact the Technical Assistance Center for further information in order to repair the vehicle. If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
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This information is good, but I don't see any condition numbers involving squeaks during cold weather.
Someone mentioned it before, even the Civic Si's or SOHC Civics have the same issue. My 2007 Civic EX did it the first few thousand miles I drove it in the winter over speedbumps on a very cold day.
Yes, the noise may be normal, but it is understandably nerve-wracking.
Someone mentioned it before, even the Civic Si's or SOHC Civics have the same issue. My 2007 Civic EX did it the first few thousand miles I drove it in the winter over speedbumps on a very cold day.
Yes, the noise may be normal, but it is understandably nerve-wracking.


