LSJ Turbo guys...one final question!
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From: WI
LSJ Turbo guys...one final question!
I know i've been asking a few questions, but i believe this is it! 
Whats the best way to accomodate for the alternator? Is it best to swap to a 2.2L alt. or is there a vendor that sells brackets? I guess, how does the hahn kit do it?
Whats the best way to accomodate for the alternator? Is it best to swap to a 2.2L alt. or is there a vendor that sells brackets? I guess, how does the hahn kit do it?
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From: Boynton Beach, Fl
The easiest (cheapest) way is to weld the alternator pulley to the clutch that is on the inner part of the pulley...
If your looking at the pulley, there is this black cap, pull that off... youll see a silver (might be rusted, mine wasnt) thing that has a hex cutout in the middle.. This spins, as well as the pulley on the outside (if you hold the inside, the pulley will spin).
You need to weld the black outer pulley to the inner silver clutch. Very simple, the muffler shop down the road did it for me for free.
If your looking at the pulley, there is this black cap, pull that off... youll see a silver (might be rusted, mine wasnt) thing that has a hex cutout in the middle.. This spins, as well as the pulley on the outside (if you hold the inside, the pulley will spin).
You need to weld the black outer pulley to the inner silver clutch. Very simple, the muffler shop down the road did it for me for free.
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From: Niceville, FL
The easiest (cheapest) way is to weld the alternator pulley to the clutch that is on the inner part of the pulley...
If your looking at the pulley, there is this black cap, pull that off... youll see a silver (might be rusted, mine wasnt) thing that has a hex cutout in the middle.. This spins, as well as the pulley on the outside (if you hold the inside, the pulley will spin).
You need to weld the black outer pulley to the inner silver clutch. Very simple, the muffler shop down the road did it for me for free.
If your looking at the pulley, there is this black cap, pull that off... youll see a silver (might be rusted, mine wasnt) thing that has a hex cutout in the middle.. This spins, as well as the pulley on the outside (if you hold the inside, the pulley will spin).
You need to weld the black outer pulley to the inner silver clutch. Very simple, the muffler shop down the road did it for me for free.
That's a lot easier since you could just grab a SAAB 9-3 belt and tensioner then. 
The easiest/cheapest way is to remove the two screws from the SC by-pass valve and use the M62 as an intake.
The rotors will spin freely and never produce boost. Then you don't have to worry about the belt or charging system because the SC snout will still be in place.
You may say "Doesn't that rob hp?"
Yes maybe a little. But that is how ZZP designed their Twincharge Kit and it currently hold the HP record for CSS.
Once the turbo is spooled the by pass valve opens up and the turbo boost flows through the SC rotors.
Or you can remove them like another member did. See sig.
Then you will not loose any HP spinning the rotors and you have a complete stealthy look.
But I know you turbo guys like to spend money so nobody does this.
The rotors will spin freely and never produce boost. Then you don't have to worry about the belt or charging system because the SC snout will still be in place.
You may say "Doesn't that rob hp?"
Yes maybe a little. But that is how ZZP designed their Twincharge Kit and it currently hold the HP record for CSS.
Once the turbo is spooled the by pass valve opens up and the turbo boost flows through the SC rotors.
Or you can remove them like another member did. See sig.
Then you will not loose any HP spinning the rotors and you have a complete stealthy look.
But I know you turbo guys like to spend money so nobody does this.
The easiest/cheapest way is to remove the two screws from the SC by-pass valve and use the M62 as an intake.
The rotors will spin freely and never produce boost. Or you can remove them like another member did. Then you don't have to worry about the belt or charging system because the SC snout will still be in place.
You may say "Doesn't that rob hp?"
Yes maybe a little. But that is how ZZP designed their Twincharge Kit and it currently hold the HP record for CSS.
Once the turbo is spooled the by pass valve opens up and the turbo boost flows through the SC rotors.
The rotors will spin freely and never produce boost. Or you can remove them like another member did. Then you don't have to worry about the belt or charging system because the SC snout will still be in place.
You may say "Doesn't that rob hp?"
Yes maybe a little. But that is how ZZP designed their Twincharge Kit and it currently hold the HP record for CSS.
Once the turbo is spooled the by pass valve opens up and the turbo boost flows through the SC rotors.
and you will still be losing quite a bit of power, still creating heat, and still have one more pos restriction to overcome in the quest for power.
Ditch it, the lower IM stock HE system, get a decent FMIC, 2.2 cobalt (or cavalier) tensioner and 41.5" belt, weld the alt clutch and you're good to go.
I was referring to the easiest/fastest way to get the job done. The concept of leaving the by-pass valve open or removing it so the SC does not produce boost works. Thousands of LSJs prove that everyday.
Probably 5-10whp ish.
True. Probably + 10-15 degrees on the IAT2s.
For a turbocharged car yes. The stock IM is a restriction. But there are ways to fix that with out spending $800 on a Hahn/Vulcan IM. Just as you have pointed out.But it all depends on the power goals of the person building his car. If he is looking for 350whp then he will be ok. That should be a very reasonable goal with the S20g he plans on running.
But if you were out for ***** to the walls hp then replacing every component in the old system is very important.
I heard that the fan fins on the LSJ alternator are not designed to cool when spinning in the other direction and that causes the alternator to operate at a higher temputure which causes premature failer.
Is that true?
What about removing the rotors completely like 06Black did?
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From: WI
^^nice post eric.
That seems like a pretty simple solution...
a yet to be "proven" record..... as far as all testing done by gm, race teams, myself, and a few other people. Those numbers are just not achievable on a stock cylinder and cams.... unless the laws of physics and airflow cease to exist on their dyno.
and you will still be losing quite a bit of power, still creating heat, and still have one more pos restriction to overcome in the quest for power.
Ditch it, the lower IM stock HE system, get a decent FMIC, 2.2 cobalt (or cavalier) tensioner and 41.5" belt, weld the alt clutch and you're good to go.
and you will still be losing quite a bit of power, still creating heat, and still have one more pos restriction to overcome in the quest for power.
Ditch it, the lower IM stock HE system, get a decent FMIC, 2.2 cobalt (or cavalier) tensioner and 41.5" belt, weld the alt clutch and you're good to go.
That seems like a pretty simple solution...
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Joined: 08-23-07
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From: Louisville, Ky
welding the clutch equaled several broken belts do to the heat that built up because of poor cooling fans in the alt. just my experience. just go to autozone and get a 2.2 alt, tensioner, and belt. youll spend 220 and only have to do it once. do it right the first time believe me i learned it the hard way.
I drove the car 700+ miles in only a few days, sat in bumper to bumper NYC traffic for 2 hours in it, brought it up over 8krpm, and a pretty fast mph. not a single issue so far. If I run into one, I'll let you guys know
wow a post I completely agree with..... see answers in red above
I know it is popular to cut down ZZP and I don't want to turn this into another flame thread so "Ok". In reference to the numbers they put down with their twincharge setup those will always be debated. No one will know for sure until one of the two ZZP twincharged LSJ goes to an independent dyno shop.
I was referring to the easiest/fastest way to get the job done. The concept of leaving the by-pass valve open or removing it so the SC does not produce boost works. Thousands of LSJs prove that everyday.
did not want to turn it into one on zzp.
Probably 5-10whp ish.
a little bit more than that, remember you are still spinning the s/c and it's still doing what it does so more like @20-25 whp or so, plus still strrain on engine and whatnot
True. Probably + 10-15 degrees on the IAT2s.
a little more after some heat soaking on the stock IC system
For a turbocharged car yes. The stock IM is a restriction. But there are ways to fix that with out spending $800 on a Hahn/Vulcan IM. Just as you have pointed out.
But it all depends on the power goals of the person building his car. If he is looking for 350whp then he will be ok. That should be a very reasonable goal with the S20g he plans on running.
stock stuff will handle 350whp pretty easy, but I would recommend at least a small FMIC
But if you were out for ***** to the walls hp then replacing every component in the old system is very important.
amen
I heard that the fan fins on the LSJ alternator are not designed to cool when spinning in the other direction and that causes the alternator to operate at a higher temputure which causes premature failer.
Is that true?
What about removing the rotors completely like 06Black did?
will still creat a little drag, and that was dan (djtxxxx can never remember the end of that)
I was referring to the easiest/fastest way to get the job done. The concept of leaving the by-pass valve open or removing it so the SC does not produce boost works. Thousands of LSJs prove that everyday.
did not want to turn it into one on zzp.
Probably 5-10whp ish.
a little bit more than that, remember you are still spinning the s/c and it's still doing what it does so more like @20-25 whp or so, plus still strrain on engine and whatnot
True. Probably + 10-15 degrees on the IAT2s.
a little more after some heat soaking on the stock IC system
For a turbocharged car yes. The stock IM is a restriction. But there are ways to fix that with out spending $800 on a Hahn/Vulcan IM. Just as you have pointed out.But it all depends on the power goals of the person building his car. If he is looking for 350whp then he will be ok. That should be a very reasonable goal with the S20g he plans on running.
stock stuff will handle 350whp pretty easy, but I would recommend at least a small FMIC
But if you were out for ***** to the walls hp then replacing every component in the old system is very important.
amen
I heard that the fan fins on the LSJ alternator are not designed to cool when spinning in the other direction and that causes the alternator to operate at a higher temputure which causes premature failer.
Is that true?
What about removing the rotors completely like 06Black did?
will still creat a little drag, and that was dan (djtxxxx can never remember the end of that)
wow a post I completely agree with..... see answers in red above
Last edited by 06blackg85ss; Jun 11, 2009 at 07:47 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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