I really need some help. Here's my situation.

I was setting the timing for the cams and crank, and before I set that, i decided to check the accessory chain. According to the build book, the accessory timing is off. The thing is, i never removed it. The only thing that happened with it was that the tensioner was taken off by accident. Could that throw the timing off if i'm turning the crank to move the pistons? The chain has always been on, just the tensioner was loose.

I don't want to set the other chain until I know that the accessory chain is ok.

Idk how else to explain it, if you guys could help me that would be amazing, i really need it. I'll answer any questions that would allow you to help me.

 

take a pic with #1 @ TDC...unless of course you can explain why you think it is off. Without the tensioner on, if you were turning the crank it could be possible the teeth didn't contact and the chain skipped a bit, but i doubt it, cause that chain would have to be LOOSE

 

i understand what your saying, but without visuals its going to be a bit hard to explain...

 

according to the build book: The #1 piston should be at tdc, the key way on the crank should be in the 12 oclock position, and the silver link at the bottom of the gear should be in line with the dot on the crank gear. the intake balance shaft should have the gold link lined up with the green dot behind the grear, with the arrow pointed up. The exhaust balance shaft should have the silver dot lined up with the white dot behind the gear and the arrow pointed down.

at top dead center with #1 the silver link at the bottom isn't even close...

I'm working on pics atm.

 

the marks are just for initial timing purposes and after that they may not line up at all on a given rotation (gears turn at diff rpms so when the chain comes around some have spun more then others), if you didnt pull the chain off its fine, the tensioner just holds it from flapping around, they dont have enough play to move teeth around a gear without the gear or the chain coming off.

 

ok...whew. I was just figured i would check it before i set the cam timing, and i saw it was off....then i freaked lol...

Lets just say its off, whats the worst case scenario that could happen when i start the car? Back to another rebuild? ...

i got pics, i'll get them up in a sec.

 

i believe all that runs is the balance shafts and the water pump...so, water pump doesnt matter...its a pump lol, and if the balance shafts are off itll rattle and shake like a mo fo haha, not sure how much damage, but if you let it run a while it could be bad, if you feel it vibrating shut it off and retime those

 

sorry for the crappy pics, my camera is lost at the moment, and i had to use my phone that doesnt have flash....so i used my drop light lol

Intake balance shaft



Exhaust side balance shaft



Lower gear/crank gear.

 

those images are password protected. you need to host them somewhere else.

 

and the number 1 piston is at TDC

dammit! give me a sec lol...

 

like i said, if you rotate it enough times it will line up, but it will NOT line up every rotation due to diff in gear size...

 

^^^that makes complete sense. I'm just going to post pics since i went through the hassle. I appreciate your guy's help. If its any concession...i'm gonna put ur names in my sig lol...

 

:P no prob

ive done it to mine and it can be NERVE RACKING!!!! helped a buddy do it too. Its easy now that i know how, and one piece of advice doing it on an engine out of a car is easier then in a car


and oddly enough im helping you here and another guy on yourcobalt (dot) com about the same issue at the same time...hmmm :P

looks like its routed right, and as long as its not pulled its good. just line up your timing chain and you are good to go

 

thanks man, i really appreciate it lol...and i know its easier out of the car, i just tried to stray away from pulling the motor.

 

i hear ya, dont be afraid (if you havent already) to pull the engine mount and use a jack to move it up and down so you can get to the guides and such easier lol


also, dont drop the tensioer/ idler pulley bolt into the unibody..that sucks even worse

i hear ya, dont be afraid (if you havent already) to pull the engine mount and use a jack to move it up and down so you can get to the guides and such easier lol


also, dont drop the tensioer/ idler pulley bolt into the unibody..that sucks even worse

 

wow you guys covered it while i was in the shower. Just make sure if you ever do remove the chain you HAVE to re-align all of the timing marks.

 

heh, yea i did that when i took it out... I have the motor mount off already.

is there a trick to getting the chain on the cam gears? lol...the only way i can get it on is by removing the tan colored tensioner/guide. dumbfounded i say! if ya got any tips that would be awesome, but otherwise, i'm just gonna fart around with it in the morning.

 

wouldnt they line up on every other rotation? the balance shafts spin 2x as fast a the crank, just like the camshafts spin half as fast, so every 2 revolutions everything would line up again, right?

 

to set the timing chain tensioner you need a gm tool J-45027,good luck

 

no you dont, you need a long screw driver and smack, all you do is slip the flat tip down next to the chain resting on the guide and give it a good smack and it will pop the tensioner loose...

are they exactly twice the circumference??? cause if not then no

 

You are talking about the black tensioner/guide/bracket?

i was screwing around with the accessory chain, it got pretty f'in close after a few rotations, so my guess is that it isn't off. If it is, i'll know once I get it started. If i have to re-time it I will.

 

nope, the other side, the orange and white one that the chain tensioner pushes on. when you install it it is compressed and held there by a groove, after install and all is in place you smack the chain guide which pushes back on the tensioner and it spins inside itself unloading and pushing in to the guide, putting tension on the chain

 

mire mamao,is the tensioner is new this is coming fully compressed non-active state and yes you need to realease the locking mechanism given a sharp jolt downwards to release the tensioner. but what happen if you go to reuse the t-tensioner?hehehe this is when you need the j-tool to compress the tensioner let me explain this to you mtfckr,the tensioner in the compressed state will measure 72mm(2.83in)from end to end,a tensioner in active state will measure 85mm(3035in) from end to end. your welcome!

 

i know how, ive done this on mult engines, and you dont need a j tool, you need some common sense and a min to push it down, its not THAT hard, and if you cant do it by hand then you can use a vise, just compress, twist, and when it pops over into place your good, then install, tap, releasing pressure, and your good....you dont need any special tool...done it to 2 diff cars mult times and both work just fine

 

sorry corvette...you were wrong. I got it without the tensioner.

shitty news is i broke one of the "keys" in the exhaust side camshaft sproket/gear. I created a new thread, but maybe you might know, are the cam sprocket/gears the same between the 2.0 and the 2.2? I have a guy with a spare set that he was going to give me...