Just wanted to share a couple pics. 29K miles (mostly highway from Lansing-Detroit and to the airport) and the slide pins on the calipers were bone dry. The car has been autocrossed 3x since it was purchased. Check out that even pad wear! Oh, and the rotors were turned once under warranty at about 14K miles IIRC.

 

Groovy!

 

Those must be the slotted rotors I keep hearing about. ("self-slotting")

 

one side wear, gotta love the single piston brakes on our turbo SS.

 

yea, I have a feeling my rears look the same, haevn't checked them since like 8k miles, have 23k now.

 

OP: How many clicks on your E-brake to get it to lock your car in place? Just collecting info.

 

Just to chime in a little, I had my car in for the Recall and GM Stg1 kit, but I also informed them about my emergency brake had little to no engagement when I lifted it as high as it would go. Turns out that the e-brake lever connected to the caliber was broken, so only one side of the car had an operational mechanism functioning. My dealer informed me that I would have to leave the car there since the rotor had deep grooves created by something and it was a safety hazard. So they replaced that rotor (with the broken e-brake lever) under warranty.


SSlobalt - Not sure where you are going with your data, but I feel that the e-brake might be partly why the SS forms grooves in the rotors. I do not think that we need to raise the e-brake very high for full engagement. After the replaced the rotor, and the e-brake was fixed, full engagement comes quickly (2 - 3" high at the end of the lever)

Just thought I would share my experience.

 

Just a couple. The problem was...when I put the ebrake down, it seemed like the pads were still holding on (could feel them break loose once the car started rolling).

 

i believe its a caliper fault. when you engage you parking break the caliper compresses. once you release it the calipers piston gets stuck and does not decompress.

 

Yeah my dealership told me its a high metalic "performance" brake and wear like that was completely normal.

He also told me my cam end plate leaking oil was normal too..

It might be normal for these cars but its not right lol. **** it i gave up on my warranty

 

The standard number is clicks needed for car-holding engagement is supposed to be 4-6 clicks. When I adjusted mine to 4-6 clicks, the calipers would not disengage fully. When I adjusted it to 12 clicks, my calipers were fully disengaged. My theory is that dealership mechanics or owners are adjusting the tension of the E-brake cables to obtain the 4-6 click engagement, resulting in premature pad wear from the calipers not disengaging all the way. My rear brakes were being chewed up pretty good with my E-brake adjusted from Chevrolet. When I adjusted the tension to the 10-12 click area, my brake wear ceased. I have to pull up a lot further, but at least my brakes will last, now.

 

The real ass kicker, try getting a hold of a set of rotors from your dealer, something like a 3 month backorder. A few of us have discussed addressing this with GM via alternate means; it's a safety concern (ie. not being able to get the rotors so your car will stop) and it can't possibly be acceptable for a car to be out of commission for 3 months+ while they get a hold of the parts. If your dealer finds their pooched they can't return it to you as a result of the safety, so it's a cat and mouse game.

 

thats why I ordered 2x sets.. last time the shipment came in I got em, so in case the backorder continues Im good to go..

 

A friend of mine is a GM engineer who used to work on (i.e. design/test) brakes for GM (now onto a different team). He explained to me that the aggressive pad material is partially to do with the type of rear caliper + e-brake combo. They have to meet certain gov't standards (hill tests) and in order to do that, a stronger pad material is required. Side effect - rotors get chewed up more.

The uneven wear on the other hand has to do with the slide pins. The reason they stick is because there isn't enough lubrication to let them slide back to the right position. So, you end up with what's pictured above - a CBSS owner **** outta luck.

New potential side effect - the Hawk HPS pads aren't as aggressive as the stockers. So, although you may not have rotors that emmulate the rings of Saturn...you end up with the fronts doing more of the work. Thinking about how the active handling system works (and was tuned to work), this makes me wonder if it takes away from the BCM's ability to control the pitch/yaw of the car in a slide or emergency lane change type situation. Granted I'd rather not have to replace rotors every 30K miles...replacing a car after an emergency type situation is much more costly and potentially much more dangerous to my health. So, part of me wonders if I should have ordered stock pads to go with my R1C rotors...

****...this is my DD. I'm not supposed to have to worry about this crap. That's what the race car is for.