Hello everyone,

I purchased this turbo a while ago planning on dropping it into a 99 Galant, but I ran into major problems with the car and got rid of it, so now I have my cobalt. When I bought it off of ebay it was advertised as a Mitsubishi 16G turbo. I have looked at manifolds for this, but can't seem to find one that fits our cars and says it bolts to a 16g.

here is a shot of the intake side:



Here is a shot of where it would bolt to the manifold:



Here is an overall shot of the turbo:



Overall shot of the intake side:



Overall shot of the exhaust side:



and an overall shot of the topside:







In the first picture the, the stamp on it says TD05 Turbo and has a serial number underneath it also.


Would the log style manifold i can get off ebay work? like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAVAL...Q5fAccessories

or this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-06...Q5fAccessories






Any input would be appreciated!!!!!

 

Anyone??

 

could really use the help guys

 

i dont think so but not for sure

 

Yea I kinda thought the same too the flange on the mani looks like it bols up horizontal, but the one it looks like I need it a vertical opening.

So i was just loking at Dejon's website and the make an adapter for the 16g. so.... new questions lol would the adapter on their website work with the log style mani?

http://cobalt.dejonpowerhouse.com/ed...bochargers.htm

its all the way at the bottom under the parts comon to all turbo upgrades.

 

This is a tdo5 that's found on stock Gen 1 DSM (Diamond Star Motors=Mitsubushi) 5 speed 2.0 liter turbo cars. Those would be the eclipse, the talon, and the laser to name just 3. There are additional designations as well like "14B" and "16G" the difference in td05 14b and the td05 16g is the 16g has double fins on the compressor wheel as opposed to single fins on the 14b, but that's a real common turbo. There are other designations as well: the "big 16g" and the "evo3 16G" All slighly different. They also put the lesser "tdo4" on the same cars, but only if they had an auto trans, presumably to take it easy on the trans.
You can get iron manifolds for this as cheap as $60 without the external wg option all day long on ebay. When it's mounted on the dsm manifold, it mounts to the manifold from under it, both flanges meeting horizontally.
Oh one other thing, it's prone to boost creep as a result of a poorly designed wastegate "passageway" and a too small wastegate puck, the solution is porting and a 32mm puck increase OR an external wg.
This is one of DSM's mitsubishi's I'm refering to, it's the eclipse:

There's a company that makes a conversion to use this on the lnf's. but i'm not sure if they replace the lnf manifold or just make a "manifold to turbo adapter" to accept the 16G?
Why, whatcha workin on? Are you by any chance selling a lnf turbo manifold?

 

okk. so this is a 16g turbo with a td05 flange if reading correctly? Yea, I think Dejon makes an adapter for the lnf manifold,

http://cobalt.dejonpowerhouse.com/

I think the adapter(s) I would need are allll the way at the bottom of the page, but i only have a base model ls, so if I get the adapter(s), I also need an lnf manifold lol. I'm not working on anything too big, just trynna drop some boost under the hood so my friends don't have anything to say about me drivin a balt lol cuz it will def be faster then their cars then... Thanks for all the useful info too!!!!

 

So what engine are you working with? To get an lnf manifold (2 much $), then put an adapter on it to mate the td05 up seems a little pricey. Just start with a manifold for your
engine with a more common flange like a t3/ t4, then get an adapter from that to the td05 or have one made. Or you might actually be able to find a mani with that td05 flange already on it or you can weld a tdo5 flange onto it. The plain flanges are common and don't cost much.

You could start with this/your stock mani:

then cut that 3 bolt flange off so you can weld this on flat/horizontal:


Or get this mani w/external wastegate port (remember you can't forget the boost creep issue):

And then use this tdo5 to t3/t4 adapter:

 

Well option number two looks like it would be the easier one to go for in this case. I was also reading up on the boos creep issue and it looks like there are few ways to solving that problem, but it also says that I have to have everything completed and running to see how much creep there is. I saw on some mitsu forums that it happens ALOT with a 3in exhaust but not as much with a 2.5in, which is what i would be looking into. I'm only trying to push the stock internals close to the rated limit of 250whp. I also saw a few solutions to the creep, like shortening the rod to the actuator or crushing the actuator so the spring opens more, and porting all of the housings. People said that shortening the rod helps the most because it forces the little flange to open a lot wider than it does compared to stock, so that would probably be the best solution there I believe.

 

The 3" compared to the 2.5" is accurate info. The problem with the actuator "fix" is the problem isn't so much the actuator as it is the exhaust's exit to the gate. See because the angle to the gate is not acute enough, the exhaust simply wants to pass it by and prefers to continue on through the turbine anyway. Think of your car window simply being open, yeah some air will enter the car, but not like it would if you had an edge or ducting of some sort directing it in.

On that red car in the picture we had a 3" exhaust (no cat) with the stock springed actuator on our TD05/EVOIII 16G version. We could jump to 20 psi's without trying, so we didn't dare take our eye's off the boost gauge or even get after it hard. We've reduced the size of the exhaust from the location of where the front of the cat flange would be, all the rest of the way out the back with 2.5" We've also added a countering spring to the exsisting actuator, and it's adjustable as well. Right now we're able to hold at 15 or less, but we're still watching it. It's just for ice racing so we're not really afraid of over boosting because of the inherent lack of traction. No traction=no boost.

 

Oh, ok. I see what you re saying now, there is too much of an angle on the inside of the housing (90 degree one compared to say a 30). The 30 would be better becuase it has a smother flow path for the exhaust gas to go through? is that what yuo are saying? In your opinion if I were to port the housing for better airflow and allow the flange to open more to control the creep, would say it is safe to this turbo on my engine? of course with the boost gauge to monitor the pressure. Also with manifold that has the external wastegate, is it possible to disable the internal one and switch it to the external one?

 

That's right, the design is such that exhaust is really unmotivated to make a turn just to find a "different" exit lol. If you went with the external option, then when the internal wasn't letting off enough pressure, the external would, because it would be set to a lower number like say 7 or 8 psi! Some guys actually weld the wastegate door shut, that's obviously a commitment, but I'm thinking I'd just lock the gate by locking the external arm or removing the actuator and arm and replacing it with a stationary bolted down arm. After all, I might be wanting to sell an unblemished turbo later.

 

So the second option with the external waste gate would be the safer route to go to make sure nothing in the engine blows up? This is really insightful for me, I never really knew of the creep issue with this turbo before. Keeping the internal gate closed with the external gate is pretty much the safest way to do this build in other words then?

 

Yeah cause you can get a pretty big external, you can always try the exsisting wastegate config first, it may be fine. You'll know right away, but if you start off by getting set up with the right manifold situation, you can simply add the external later if need be. You'd be saving money by doing it all yourself, where as with the porting job and a new larger puck you'd be paying someone to do that for you + shipping 2 ways.
Have you been looking at adapter flanges?

 

okk, I like the sound of that much better than the porting and shipping. is porting easy to do? isn't it really just shaving away some of the metal to cut the restriction? or is it more complicated than that?

 

Basicly yes, but if you don't know how far to go, you could make a spot to thin causing it to become a "too hot" spot in the housing, or worse go all the way through the side. Then, as far as the new puck goes, you'd need to machine the old opening nicely and then buy a bigger puck? or fabricate one out of an old valve. I mean, you may have access to a mahine shop for all I know, thats a value judgement you've got to make.

 

yea, no access t a machine shop here, I would just get a dremel and start grinding, but I'm assuming thats not the safest thing to do from what you just said.

 

alot of extra money gonna be spent trying to run that. i suggest ditching it now.

also its a complete waste of money as that turbo blows ***** and if you build your build around it when you wanna ditch it for something better you will be looking to go t3 flange again anyways. and then will have to start all over as cp will be different. i also suggest starting of with something oil cooled only for simplicity

 

You've got the right idea in principal, but it would take a lifetime with a dremmel.
You'd really want to do it with a air die-grinder and a carbide burr. Even then, you'd still have to figure out a way to clean up the puck seat after being able to only opening it up so much, then get a replacement puck. A pro would be using calipers to check the ever changing thickness, and even then, you don't know what you can get away with?

 

If i get the manifold we were talking about then all i have to do is take the adapter off to support a t3/t4 flange. it wouldn't be that hard. Having an oil/water cooled turbo is better for the turbo, it keeps it cooler right? I'm kinda stuck with this turbo anyway, I was planning on putting it into a 99-03 galant but long story short the timing belt broke on me. so i figured, i'd try to make the best out of the situation. i'm not looking to push above 250hp so this turbo will do just fine I believe. Just want my car to have a little more ***** behind it.

Baddog: Gotcha, so it would be best to just leave it alone and go with the external so I don't have to worry about that headache?

 

I don't know what your car is like, Take a look at that manifold and picture it on your car.
Some mani's are designed to have air-conditioning deleted, while some designs allow you to keep it.
They don't know if you're adding an adapter either, so you have to consider this in your design...will it fit with an adapter added? Will you have to fab up your own adapter, Will the turbo be facing the right way for the exhaust dump to work out, will it clear supports or mounts or power steering pumps or even the dipstick etc. By the way, what are you going to be doing with that galant? do you have a galant or just the 4g63 motor or what?

 

Gotcha, I'll look under the hood sometime this week and bring the turbo with to imagine how it would look and if there would be any trouble areas. as for the galant, it had a 4g64 engine, but I was going to swap the head to a 4g63 in, (they line up) lol and drop some lower compression pistons and forged rods into it to have a sick built up 4g64 with a 4g63 head, but the timing belt broke and my brother got into an accident with his accord so I gave the galant to him to fix so he had a car and didn't have to worry about getting a new one. that was about a year ago and since then he has fixed it and many other things on it and drives i around as a dd. He is thinking about getting rid of it but I told if he want to get rid of it I'll take it, he wants a truck, but complains about gas. but if he does i'm going to keep it for a project car and build the motor, ita way cheaper than building up the balt. I've looked into it alot. lol