Ok I have asked this a few times on other posts still not getting a common answer. So can I run a dry shot ZEX system on my SS/SC? I have it on my cav and want to use it. I will onoly use the 55 nozzles. I can also just buy the "wet" upgrade but would prefer not to if I don't need too. Someone please help me!! Thanks all:twothumbs

I would run the wet, it's safer, unless you are running an a/f gauge. If you have a wideband a/f gauge then go ahead and try it, if it goes lean, stop immediately, get the wet kit, and try again...do not run ANY spray without someway of monitoring a/f...

I have a wideband that I used on the CAV. Why on the ZEX website do they say not to use it on forced induction? Thanks for the help

I'm not really sure how a wideband would help you though...if it goes lean your pretty much done for when it comes to nitrous.

I would just make sure that you've got a switch to kill the nitrous if fuel pressure drops too low and make sure your injectors can still supply enough fuel with whatever shot. Same basic steps you would have to take as if you were running it on your Cavalier.

a 50 HP shot is the limit if you spray a dry shot according to Derrick Z28 with the stock step.

A wideband is always helpful to make sure your not going lean or running to rich (with a wet shot) either.

I considered a dry shot as well when I was shopping around. My plan was a dry shot and 60 lb injectors. It would take some testing to see how a dry shot affects the MAF readings and ultimately the air metering. A dry shot could be fine is you experiments and took baby steps and had a WB o2 and HPtuners. I ended up with a wet shot because I thought it would be safer for a newbie like me to start with.

^^^ I agree, wet is just safer, and anyways, down the road if you so chose, wet will make more power when even the 60lb's are too little...hehe...and here I sit waiting for that day...

this is why you cant use a dry kit on forced induction...
when you start creating boost your fuel pressure goes up on a 1 to 1 basis so your injectors are already working over time, then you start putting pressure on the fpr via the dry kit, your injectors might lock up, cause a severe lean condition and kablewy!!

this is why you cant use a dry kit on forced induction...
when you start creating boost your fuel pressure goes up on a 1 to 1 basis so your injectors are already working over time, then you start putting pressure on the fpr via the dry kit, your injectors might lock up, cause a severe lean condition and kablewy!!


When you start making boost the relative fuel pressure goes down. That affects your lb/min which is taken into account by the PCM. There are some other reason that I can see that would affect the max wet shot. First the 63.5 lbs/min limit on injector flow rate, the MAF vs airflow map, ect

ive been running a homemade 30 shot of nitrous for a while now, with no problems. but like everyone said i would definately get a wideband, or run on a dyno b4 running a dry 50 shot.

I'm not really sure how a wideband would help you though...if it goes lean your pretty much done for when it comes to nitrous.


lean + nitrous = boom...

wideband is not going to save you :nono: :)

Well if you have a wideband you won't go lean, cause you can make informed decisions on how much nitrous you can run.

^^ SO true...

Well if you have a wideband you won't go lean, cause you can make informed decisions on how much nitrous you can run.

well I guess that depends...does the wideband display the duty cycle of the injectors so you can tell if you're close to maxing them out or not?

The whole reason for money well spent on the dyno^^

well I guess that depends...does the wideband display the duty cycle of the injectors so you can tell if you're close to maxing them out or not?


My wideband system does show me the duty cycle. But a scan tool would do that also.

oh, well in that case I guess you're right

I was just picturing simply an a/f gauge in my head before :)

this is why you cant use a dry kit on forced induction...
when you start creating boost your fuel pressure goes up on a 1 to 1 basis so your injectors are already working over time, then you start putting pressure on the fpr via the dry kit, your injectors might lock up, cause a severe lean condition and kablewy!!

Your injectors work as hard as your PCM allows them to.

Now, I will say that is a broad statement by Zex. It's all relative to what type of fuel management you're using and how you tune your vehicle. I think they said that just cause they don't want people to get damage due to them saying NOT to but in all honesty, if you don't know anything about nitrous or how it works, than maybe you shouldn't be trying to use it (figuratively speaking).

As far as the quoted of putting stress on the FPR...remember, your computer has no control over your FPR, only your injectors. No matter what, your FPR will regulate the same way it was before no matter how much nitrous you're spraying. Your FPR only regulates what's leaving your fuel rail, not entering so stressing it won't be an issue because it's not in some type of high demand to send fuel to the fuel rail like a fuel pump might be.

Also, the demand won't really raise...your computer only knows how to supply fuel cause of certain fuel tables...basically, it does what it's programmed to do. When you're throwing nitrous in (hence leaning out the a/f mixture) the computer won't know how to comphensate more fuel because it's not programmed to send more fuel. This is why a dry shot isn't that much of a good idea.

Hopefully this all makes, it's early in the morning and I'm exhausted lol.

^^^ I agree, wet is just safer, and anyways, down the road if you so chose, wet will make more power when even the 60lb's are too little...hehe...and here I sit waiting for that day...

Injector sizes don't matter when it comes to wet shots.

Ok I have asked this a few times on other posts still not getting a common answer. So can I run a dry shot ZEX system on my SS/SC? I have it on my cav and want to use it. I will onoly use the 55 nozzles. I can also just buy the "wet" upgrade but would prefer not to if I don't need too. Someone please help me!! Thanks all:twothumbs

My suggestion to you is to use your current power source instead of trying to have 2. You have a supercharger to produce boost...use it! Change the pullies, change the injectors etc. etc. If anything, use nitrous for your aftercooler to cool down the air charge.

Also, nitrous adds more stress on the on the engine internals. Yes yes, I know...so does boost BUT boost is gradual stress, nitrous is an instant punch to the gut (so to speak). Put it this way, boost to your internals is like someone poking you in your arm softly then gradually getting harder. Nitrous is like someone just immediately punching you with their fist...your arm will bruise faster with a harder punch more often than gradual poking.

Give me some credit, this is the best analogy I could come up with at 6 AM lol

Injector sizes don't matter when it comes to wet shots.

That's what I was saying. When you are tuned on 60lb injectors and that still isn't enough to support the nitrous, then the wet shot is the only thing that will supply enough fuel...

That's what I was saying. When you are tuned on 60lb injectors and that still isn't enough to support the nitrous, then the wet shot is the only thing that will supply enough fuel...


ooooh ok. My bad.

From what I saw with my nitrous it is okay for like a 50 shot or so. But the difference in a dry kit on a Cavalier vs the dry kit on a Cobalt is that the Cavalier can be vaccum controlled on the fuel rail FPR to add more fuel without an extra fuel solenoid in the system. The dry kit on the Cobalt is going to be straight nitrous with no fuel modification possible. It by itself that small with be okay though because at higher boost levels it will cool the charge and negate the need for more fuel.

From what I saw with my nitrous it is okay for like a 50 shot or so. But the difference in a dry kit on a Cavalier vs the dry kit on a Cobalt is that the Cavalier can be vaccum controlled on the fuel rail FPR to add more fuel without an extra fuel solenoid in the system. The dry kit on the Cobalt is going to be straight nitrous with no fuel modification possible. It by itself that small with be okay though because at higher boost levels it will cool the charge and negate the need for more fuel.

A dry kit on a Cobalt is the same as a dry kit on a Tiburon...the point is that nitrous is being sprayed with the intention of having your fuel injectors spary enough fuel to have the proper a/f ratio so you don't detonate.

Air intake temperature means nothing when it comes to having lack of fuel.

this subject again ehh? Kuwait is so boring...