Something blew a hole in my radiator white smoke coming out!! HELP!
So i swapped to the 2.5" pulley from the 2.7 because my tune is made for a 2.5 and i do a little pull from like 3k rpms to 5rpms and when i let off i hear a loud noise (again!
at least it wasnt my belt ripping lol) and i get out to see what it was and there is a hole in my radiator with white smoke coming out!! Im like wtf not again more problems
. It stopped shooting white smoke out of the car but now there is air leaking out and i have no idea how it will affect my car. So should i fix it or say **** it with this car and keep modding it lol Im not sure what exactly that is going to do to my car, but the car still ran fine WOT so am i only at the chance of overheating? Or something else? Please help me AGAIN!
Thanks
Brian
Thanks
Brian
please tell me you didn't drive it around with a hole in the radiator.... if it did overheat, 99.9% chance you warped the cylinder head and blew the headgasket... congrats.
and where is the hole? if its in the engine compartment, chances are a bolt on the pulley came off and shot through it
and where is the hole? if its in the engine compartment, chances are a bolt on the pulley came off and shot through it
please tell me you didn't drive it around with a hole in the radiator.... if it did overheat, 99.9% chance you warped the cylinder head and blew the headgasket... congrats.
and where is the hole? if its in the engine compartment, chances are a bolt on the pulley came off and shot through it
and where is the hole? if its in the engine compartment, chances are a bolt on the pulley came off and shot through it
Everyone thinks i need a new head gasket. What do you guys think?
found out it was my air conditioner condenser
i have no air condition anymore
Last edited by yellowcobaltss05; Jun 15, 2007 at 02:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Well i really didnt drive around i turned around immediately like 50 feet from my house and all the pulley bolts are still on there so that didnt cause it. There is still air coming out of the hole and please tell me i didnt **** up my car like that
. I dont see how this could happen. I swear to god that this car is one big problem. Everytime i fix something, something else will break out of nowhere. Maybe i should have the dealership fix it since i have had so many problems they should have no problem fixing it for me.
technically i didnt run it at WOT lol i sort of goosed the throttle and it seemed fine now its sitting in my parking spot again and will propbably be there forever
Everyone thinks i need a new head gasket. What do you guys think?
found out it was my air conditioner condenser
i have no air condition anymore

technically i didnt run it at WOT lol i sort of goosed the throttle and it seemed fine now its sitting in my parking spot again and will propbably be there forever
Everyone thinks i need a new head gasket. What do you guys think?
found out it was my air conditioner condenser
i have no air condition anymore
The problem is, STOP BEATING ON YOUR CAR... LOL.... and also if it has a whole, then dont drive it, fix the radiator. Your asking for more issues. And what blew on the radiotor? Is it your radiator that went or your AC condensor? I think you need a pro look at this car.
gonna have to agree here man....
you say your car is "one big problem"
i dont think the car is the only thing at fault here.....
you gotta be a little nicer to her.
or shes gonna keep treating you the same way back.
you say your car is "one big problem"
i dont think the car is the only thing at fault here.....
you gotta be a little nicer to her.
or shes gonna keep treating you the same way back.
It was just the AC condenser and nothing else and i dont beat on the car. I probably floor it 2-3 times a week if that and the car has never had any engine problems up to date.
Are you serious? If you had my list of how many times i have been to the dealership over warranty fixes you would start to blame the car too and i am not a nub or whatever the **** that is i know how to drive my car for **** sakes i have just one unlucky cobalt. I know alot about my car and you would call alot of the people i have met with that own this car a nub bc they absoultely have no idea about anything refering to this car 
and how the hell is it going to be my problem when i punch it for not even 2 seconds and something breaks that has nothing to do with me flooring it? It was the freaking ac so i guess my driver error broke the air conditioner just like it broke my sunroof, made one of my headlight harnesses go bad, bent my control arm (i really wish i knew how that happened)
and how the hell is it going to be my problem when i punch it for not even 2 seconds and something breaks that has nothing to do with me flooring it? It was the freaking ac so i guess my driver error broke the air conditioner just like it broke my sunroof, made one of my headlight harnesses go bad, bent my control arm (i really wish i knew how that happened)
Last edited by yellowcobaltss05; Jun 15, 2007 at 02:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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Well i really didnt drive around i turned around immediately like 50 feet from my house and all the pulley bolts are still on there so that didnt cause it. There is still air coming out of the hole and please tell me i didnt **** up my car like that
. I dont see how this could happen. I swear to god that this car is one big problem. Everytime i fix something, something else will break out of nowhere. Maybe i should have the dealership fix it since i have had so many problems they should have no problem fixing it for me.
technically i didnt run it at WOT lol i sort of goosed the throttle and it seemed fine now its sitting in my parking spot again and will propbably be there forever
Everyone thinks i need a new head gasket. What do you guys think?
found out it was my air conditioner condenser
i have no air condition anymore

technically i didnt run it at WOT lol i sort of goosed the throttle and it seemed fine now its sitting in my parking spot again and will propbably be there forever
Everyone thinks i need a new head gasket. What do you guys think?
found out it was my air conditioner condenser
i have no air condition anymore
Was the hole on the condenser itself, the inlet, or the outlet? Is this still happening (Air coming from the hole) and does it also happen when the AC is turned off?
Last edited by yellowcobaltss05; Jun 15, 2007 at 04:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
It was just the AC condenser and nothing else and i dont beat on the car. I probably floor it 2-3 times a week if that and the car has never had any engine problems up to date.
Are you serious? If you had my list of how many times i have been to the dealership over warranty fixes you would start to blame the car too and i am not a nub or whatever the **** that is i know how to drive my car for **** sakes i have just one unlucky cobalt. I know alot about my car and you would call alot of the people i have met with that own this car a nub bc they absoultely have no idea about anything refering to this car
and how the hell is it going to be my problem when i punch it for not even 2 seconds and something breaks that has nothing to do with me flooring it? It was the freaking ac so i guess my driver error broke the air conditioner just like it broke my sunroof, made one of my headlight harnesses go bad, bent my control arm (i really wish i knew how that happened)
Are you serious? If you had my list of how many times i have been to the dealership over warranty fixes you would start to blame the car too and i am not a nub or whatever the **** that is i know how to drive my car for **** sakes i have just one unlucky cobalt. I know alot about my car and you would call alot of the people i have met with that own this car a nub bc they absoultely have no idea about anything refering to this car
and how the hell is it going to be my problem when i punch it for not even 2 seconds and something breaks that has nothing to do with me flooring it? It was the freaking ac so i guess my driver error broke the air conditioner just like it broke my sunroof, made one of my headlight harnesses go bad, bent my control arm (i really wish i knew how that happened)
LMAO.... ok dude you have to calm down. The whole in the Ac condensor has nothing to do with you racing the car. something hit it or cracked it. could have been pressure reving around 5k but i doubt it cause I have done that before. That would be concidered warranty for the most part. unless its a huge hole which is obviously phsyical damage. Obviously keep in mind if you looking to test the performance, dont use your ac as it will rob you of tons of HP. Plus Be easier with the car I sure it will thank you for it. Its a 4cylinder dude, Not a Built V8.
LMAO.... ok dude you have to calm down. The whole in the Ac condensor has nothing to do with you racing the car. something hit it or cracked it. could have been pressure reving around 5k but i doubt it cause I have done that before. That would be concidered warranty for the most part. unless its a huge hole which is obviously phsyical damage. Obviously keep in mind if you looking to test the performance, dont use your ac as it will rob you of tons of HP. Plus Be easier with the car I sure it will thank you for it. Its a 4cylinder dude, Not a Built V8.
I have seen an instance where the WOT switch did not disengage the compressor clutch and it created high enough pressure to spring a leak like you're describing. That is why I was asking you.
It wasn't air coming out of your condenser - what you are calling air was actually the refrigerant leaking out - that's why it initially appeared white (liquid refrigerant in the high pressure side of the system was vaporizing as a result of the reduction in high side pressure to atmospheric due to the hole, appearing white initially).
Something flew up and punched a hole in the condenser - plain and simple. It wasn't excessive pressure - no way. The upper limit pressure switch in the high pressure A/C line would have cut the power to the compressor clutch LONG before the amount of pressure necessary to blow a hole in the condensor would have been allowed to build. Even if that were to have happened, the leak would much more likely have occured at the edge of the condensor where the tubes are welded to the end pipes, or even more likely, at one of the rubber hose connections on the high pressure side of the system. And, it likely wouldn't have blown a hole in the condensor, it would have just created a leak that you probably wouldn't have noticed until your A/C suddenly quit working.
Here's some additional info for you guys, since, in my experience, many people don't really seem to understand how car A/C systems work: Revving to redline with the A/C on does NOT increase the pressure in the A/C system. If anything, it decreases pressure in the system. The situation that produces the highest pressure in automotive A/C systems is in hot weather at idle in traffic with high ambient air temps, low airflow, and low compressor RPMs - that's when the high side sees the greatest pressure. As compressor RPM increases, system pressure decreases due to increased flow through the compressor.
Something flew up and punched a hole in the condenser - plain and simple. It wasn't excessive pressure - no way. The upper limit pressure switch in the high pressure A/C line would have cut the power to the compressor clutch LONG before the amount of pressure necessary to blow a hole in the condensor would have been allowed to build. Even if that were to have happened, the leak would much more likely have occured at the edge of the condensor where the tubes are welded to the end pipes, or even more likely, at one of the rubber hose connections on the high pressure side of the system. And, it likely wouldn't have blown a hole in the condensor, it would have just created a leak that you probably wouldn't have noticed until your A/C suddenly quit working.
Here's some additional info for you guys, since, in my experience, many people don't really seem to understand how car A/C systems work: Revving to redline with the A/C on does NOT increase the pressure in the A/C system. If anything, it decreases pressure in the system. The situation that produces the highest pressure in automotive A/C systems is in hot weather at idle in traffic with high ambient air temps, low airflow, and low compressor RPMs - that's when the high side sees the greatest pressure. As compressor RPM increases, system pressure decreases due to increased flow through the compressor.
It wasn't air coming out of your condenser - what you are calling air was actually the refrigerant leaking out - that's why it initially appeared white (liquid refrigerant in the high pressure side of the system was vaporizing as a result of the reduction in high side pressure to atmospheric due to the hole, appearing white initially).
Something flew up and punched a hole in the condenser - plain and simple. It wasn't excessive pressure - no way. The upper limit pressure switch in the high pressure A/C line would have cut the power to the compressor clutch LONG before the amount of pressure necessary to blow a hole in the condensor would have been allowed to build. Even if that were to have happened, the leak would much more likely have occured at the edge of the condensor where the tubes are welded to the end pipes, or even more likely, at one of the rubber hose connections on the high pressure side of the system. And, it likely wouldn't have blown a hole in the condensor, it would have just created a leak that you probably wouldn't have noticed until your A/C suddenly quit working.
Here's some additional info for you guys, since, in my experience, many people don't really seem to understand how car A/C systems work: Revving to redline with the A/C on does NOT increase the pressure in the A/C system. If anything, it decreases pressure in the system. The situation that produces the highest pressure in automotive A/C systems is in hot weather at idle in traffic with high ambient air temps, low airflow, and low compressor RPMs - that's when the high side sees the greatest pressure. As compressor RPM increases, system pressure decreases due to increased flow through the compressor.
Something flew up and punched a hole in the condenser - plain and simple. It wasn't excessive pressure - no way. The upper limit pressure switch in the high pressure A/C line would have cut the power to the compressor clutch LONG before the amount of pressure necessary to blow a hole in the condensor would have been allowed to build. Even if that were to have happened, the leak would much more likely have occured at the edge of the condensor where the tubes are welded to the end pipes, or even more likely, at one of the rubber hose connections on the high pressure side of the system. And, it likely wouldn't have blown a hole in the condensor, it would have just created a leak that you probably wouldn't have noticed until your A/C suddenly quit working.
Here's some additional info for you guys, since, in my experience, many people don't really seem to understand how car A/C systems work: Revving to redline with the A/C on does NOT increase the pressure in the A/C system. If anything, it decreases pressure in the system. The situation that produces the highest pressure in automotive A/C systems is in hot weather at idle in traffic with high ambient air temps, low airflow, and low compressor RPMs - that's when the high side sees the greatest pressure. As compressor RPM increases, system pressure decreases due to increased flow through the compressor.
Lastly, if you had a hole in the system and the compressor continued to run you can feel air coming out of the hole. Of course without oil/refrigerant to lubricate it, it will die quickly but it will happen.
Edit: The compressor increases in efficiency at over idle speeds. The pressure does not decrease because the compressor flows more; just FYI we have an expansion valve that opens and closes based on evaporator temperature, and it is what controls pressure drop.
Actually you're wrong about a compressor not pumping more air during higher rpms. You're also wrong about the WOT switch, it can fail and cause pressure high enough to burst lines (That's why compressors have plugs that would burst open during pressure which was too high). You're right about the high temps but that's about it. Plus I never said that it would happen in the middle of a line, I'm referring to at the connections.
Lastly, if you had a hole in the system and the compressor continued to run you can feel air coming out of the hole. Of course without oil/refrigerant to lubricate it, it will die quickly but it will happen.
Edit: The compressor increases in efficiency at over idle speeds. The pressure does not decrease because the compressor flows more; just FYI we have an expansion valve that opens and closes based on evaporator temperature, and it is what controls pressure drop.
Lastly, if you had a hole in the system and the compressor continued to run you can feel air coming out of the hole. Of course without oil/refrigerant to lubricate it, it will die quickly but it will happen.
Edit: The compressor increases in efficiency at over idle speeds. The pressure does not decrease because the compressor flows more; just FYI we have an expansion valve that opens and closes based on evaporator temperature, and it is what controls pressure drop.
You are wrong about compressors pumping air. A/C compressors don't pump air, they pump refrigerant (R-134a in this case) and oil. There is no air in the A/C system.
YOU are wrong about the WOT switch, since Cobalts (or G5s) don't have WOT switches. These cars have a drive-by-wire throttle - there is no switch on the throttle body to cut current to the A/C clutch coil when the throttle butterfly is wide open. This would have to be programmed into the ECU, so that when the ECU opens the throttle butterfly wide open in response to a WOT signal from the accelerator pedal, it then would also cut the current to the A/C clutch coil. In my 2.2l G5, the ECU does NOT disengage the A/C clutch at WOT. Maybe the 2.0l SC ECU does, but the 2.2l ECU doesn't. Regardless, you are incorrect - there is no WOT switch to fail on these cars since WOT-A/C clutch kill response would have to be ECU-controlled. Plus, most relatively recently built cars that had these WOT switches didn't actually have a separate WOT switch - they just used the TPS switch to sense WOT and then the ECU would cut the A/C clutch current upon sensing WOT. As a result, if that switch was bad, you'd have serious driveability problems and a CEL due to a non-functioning TPS switch.
Yes, if you had a hole in the condensor, you would feel a gas coming out of the condensor, but it would NOT be air. As I said above, there is NO air in the A/C system, just refrigerant and oil.
I am well aware that these cars have expansion valves and the way they work. When I wrote my previous post, I wasn't thinking - I wrote that post from the perspective of the low side of the system - if you increase the compressor RPMs, the low side pressure decreases (check it yourself with your own pressure gauge). You are correct in saying that as RPMs increase, the high side pressure will increase, to a point. However, the increase in pressure in the high side has a limit that is set by a pressure switch in the high side. If the pressure increased enough to trigger the high side pressure switch, the A/C clutch coil current is killed, turning off the compressor. Plus, there would have to be something wrong with the A/C system in order for that kind of pressure to be achieved.
My point was that it would take a HELL OF A LOT of pressure in the A/C system to blow a hole in the condensor, and the high limit switch on the high pressure side would have turned off the A/C compressor LONG before enough pressure was achieved to blow a hole in the condensor. What happened to his car was simply a foreign body striking the condensor. Plain and simple.
If I give incorrect info, then please correct me. However, don't tell me I'm wrong if your own info is incorrect.
You are wrong about compressors pumping air. A/C compressors don't pump air, they pump refrigerant (R-134a in this case) and oil. There is no air in the A/C system.
YOU are wrong about the WOT switch, since Cobalts (or G5s) don't have WOT switches. These cars have a drive-by-wire throttle - there is no switch on the throttle body to cut current to the A/C clutch coil when the throttle butterfly is wide open. This would have to be programmed into the ECU, so that when the ECU opens the throttle butterfly wide open in response to a WOT signal from the accelerator pedal, it then would also cut the current to the A/C clutch coil. In my 2.2l G5, the ECU does NOT disengage the A/C clutch at WOT. Maybe the 2.0l SC ECU does, but the 2.2l ECU doesn't. Regardless, you are incorrect - there is no WOT switch to fail on these cars since WOT-A/C clutch kill response would have to be ECU-controlled. Plus, most relatively recently built cars that had these WOT switches didn't actually have a separate WOT switch - they just used the TPS switch to sense WOT and then the ECU would cut the A/C clutch current upon sensing WOT. As a result, if that switch was bad, you'd have serious driveability problems and a CEL due to a non-functioning TPS switch.
Yes, if you had a hole in the condensor, you would feel a gas coming out of the condensor, but it would NOT be air. As I said above, there is NO air in the A/C system, just refrigerant and oil.
I am well aware that these cars have expansion valves and the way they work. When I wrote my previous post, I wasn't thinking - I wrote that post from the perspective of the low side of the system - if you increase the compressor RPMs, the low side pressure decreases (check it yourself with your own pressure gauge). You are correct in saying that as RPMs increase, the high side pressure will increase, to a point. However, the increase in pressure in the high side has a limit that is set by a pressure switch in the high side. If the pressure increased enough to trigger the high side pressure switch, the A/C clutch coil current is killed, turning off the compressor. Plus, there would have to be something wrong with the A/C system in order for that kind of pressure to be achieved.
My point was that it would take a HELL OF A LOT of pressure in the A/C system to blow a hole in the condensor, and the high limit switch on the high pressure side would have turned off the A/C compressor LONG before enough pressure was achieved to blow a hole in the condensor. What happened to his car was simply a foreign body striking the condensor. Plain and simple.
You are wrong about compressors pumping air. A/C compressors don't pump air, they pump refrigerant (R-134a in this case) and oil. There is no air in the A/C system.
YOU are wrong about the WOT switch, since Cobalts (or G5s) don't have WOT switches. These cars have a drive-by-wire throttle - there is no switch on the throttle body to cut current to the A/C clutch coil when the throttle butterfly is wide open. This would have to be programmed into the ECU, so that when the ECU opens the throttle butterfly wide open in response to a WOT signal from the accelerator pedal, it then would also cut the current to the A/C clutch coil. In my 2.2l G5, the ECU does NOT disengage the A/C clutch at WOT. Maybe the 2.0l SC ECU does, but the 2.2l ECU doesn't. Regardless, you are incorrect - there is no WOT switch to fail on these cars since WOT-A/C clutch kill response would have to be ECU-controlled. Plus, most relatively recently built cars that had these WOT switches didn't actually have a separate WOT switch - they just used the TPS switch to sense WOT and then the ECU would cut the A/C clutch current upon sensing WOT. As a result, if that switch was bad, you'd have serious driveability problems and a CEL due to a non-functioning TPS switch.
Yes, if you had a hole in the condensor, you would feel a gas coming out of the condensor, but it would NOT be air. As I said above, there is NO air in the A/C system, just refrigerant and oil.
I am well aware that these cars have expansion valves and the way they work. When I wrote my previous post, I wasn't thinking - I wrote that post from the perspective of the low side of the system - if you increase the compressor RPMs, the low side pressure decreases (check it yourself with your own pressure gauge). You are correct in saying that as RPMs increase, the high side pressure will increase, to a point. However, the increase in pressure in the high side has a limit that is set by a pressure switch in the high side. If the pressure increased enough to trigger the high side pressure switch, the A/C clutch coil current is killed, turning off the compressor. Plus, there would have to be something wrong with the A/C system in order for that kind of pressure to be achieved.
My point was that it would take a HELL OF A LOT of pressure in the A/C system to blow a hole in the condensor, and the high limit switch on the high pressure side would have turned off the A/C compressor LONG before enough pressure was achieved to blow a hole in the condensor. What happened to his car was simply a foreign body striking the condensor. Plain and simple.
Hahaha. The wot switch is in the pedal potentiometer. I never said AC compressors pump air, I said if there is no refrigerant in the system they will still be moving something, and when no refrigerant is in there it will still move air. Anyways, the my point is moot, I was just having a discussion.
I know it would take alot of pressure and that it's unlikely, but I've seen it. You don't have to believe me. I'm well aware of the basic principles of an AC system. You are being to literal; I'm not challenging how an AC system functions normally, I'm talking about things which can occur if something breaks. You're probably right that something hit his condenser, I was simply talking about any other solution if indeed that was not the case.
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