http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer...FO-SHEET-2.pdf

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer...0SHEET.doc.pdf

And just see the flowchart on the right side of the following page :

http://www.m2race.com/product_specs.asp?ID=5#

EDITED : GMPP states the stock head to be efficient up to only 275WHP (325BHP).

And if you can read between the lines, now it's time to put your hard-earned money at the right place ... head porting, cams, valve springs. Then only after that get a good flowing header, downpipe and catback. Yeah yeah don't forget HPTuner ...

Best regards,

 

That is exactly what I was thinking. Thus the reason I bought the stuff for it. Nice find and people should really look into doing this before going to a different FI. I mean how do you think the N/A guys get more power. More flow = more Power.

 

And people say porting the head is a waste of money.

 

whoever says that is dumb

 

These are my next mods=), through JBody

 

i would advise agianst that if at all possible

 

will gm's race head just bolt on? thats about 1k or so.
i priced out the whole race motor, well just the block, pistons, pins, head, shafts, cams, and rods. i got to about 9K and quit as the wife gave me the tap on the shoulder. so im guessing it would cost about 15k installed, including all the small stuff, and that would gain about 50 whp? but it would be far more tweakable. then the tranny would blow apart.
rinse repeat. i think the balt is a poor choice if you want a serious ground pounder.
this is my last fwd, chevy needs another car that is blown. the camaro prolly wont be.
400 hp is FA for a fast car. how many guys here can run with a base vette? gm better get with the program/.

 

Yeah and if you spend some money in the internals, ported heads, cams, just make sure it will be optimised with proper bolt-ons (exhaust) parts. Don't choke this marvelous ported LSJ with crap stock exhaust parts.

Like I've seen one user with a ported head AND cams, but still have a 500 CFM catback ...

Or another one with a lot of bolt-ons and 2,6" pulley, but still with the stock exhaust manifold !

Don't get me wrong : We all learn together, that's why I made a lot of mistake myself and spent a lot of money, still running the stock DP for one + year because not having enough money to upgrade. But that's past history ...

 

nope, said that since day one

 

area, would you bolt on the gm race head? with adding better springs.

 

depends on my budget really.

valvetrain is where i would start actually. cams, springs, retainers. or just find a spare 2.0 head and build it up from there. more or less over time, rather than jumping head long into it.

 

Well I put together a nice kit for myself.

P&P head....$1000.00
Valve Springs and Ret....$400.00
Cam Regrind.....$300.00
10.0:1 Pistons Cer top.....$625.00
Intense Shorty Header.....$400.00
Custom 3in Cat back.......$300.00
Exedy Clutch....$1100.00

Total Damage....$4125.00

This with the stuff I have already will be good for over 300WHP and also the internals Can stand A pretty big shot of N2O if you wanted it. Now I know that there are still some weak points but I dont really race the car so I am not going to really worry to much about axles and tranny work. Really If I don't shift to hard the clutch would probably hold up too. So for about three grand (minus clutch) you could have your 300 hp machine.

And I am not saying I will be doing this for sure yet. I have most of the parts but I am getting out of the Army and moving to San diego with my old lady in Dec. So money might be tight then. We will see.

 

... hmmm is there any place I can find all those stats for the 2.4 this is very very interesting

 

if ur refering to me, i never said it was a waste of money, but IMO, for just cracking 300whp its a waste of money

 

Ur kidding right.. maybe i have a different value of money, or maybe im just used to dsms where u dont need to do that kinda stuff to get 300hp

P&P head....$1000.00
Valve Springs and Ret....$400.00
Cam Regrind.....$300.00
10.0:1 Pistons Cer top.....$625.00
Intense Shorty Header.....$400.00
Custom 3in Cat back.......$300.00
Exedy Clutch....$1100.00

total=$4125 personally i wouldnt spend that much to just get 300whp.. 300hp is very low...ESPECIALLY WHEN THE CAR COMES WITH 200WHP STOCK!!!! so at least.... 4000 for 100hp?? and ur forgettin the pulley, injectors, TUNE, suspension mods, yea now u kno where im goin wit this
unless i was going turbo or a blower swap i dont see it feasable to spend that much money for just 300whp

thats my opinion

 

Do you?

 

wrong section man.. go into the audio visual thread....

 

he asked for the time in another thread.. doubt hes real

 

anyone?

 

I eliminated everything i didn't need from that list. The stock cams/Valvetrain are FINE unless you're going to build up the motor. My Weapon R long tube would work flawlessly with it. With a good 40cfm intake/58+cfm exhaust jump. I think 30whp gain would be a tad conservative. Especially if i was going with a 2.8" pulley.

 

As much as I don't like your tactfulness on this site I do agree that a P&P head is the best route to go if you already have begun modding. And if your going to go through the hassle of tearing everything apart you might as well throw the rest of the stuff in there. Just my opinion.

 

I may be an ******* but i know what i'm talking about.

 

Well atleast one of those things is right.

 

I can see how the stock head can only be so effecient to a point, but I believe that our intake manifolds play a large role in that, eventually were going to be pushing air out faster than we can get air in.

 

Didn't the GM sport compact build a 400 horse LSj on stock heads?