I have some 18 inch motegi rims with a huge lip and i have to use spacers. they even had to drill bigger holes in the front rims only because the lug nuts wouldnt catch all the way... Will i ever have real problems in the future do to the rims? I am planning to get new rotors because my rotors are warped... Will the aftermarket rotors correct the problem and allow me to not have spacers? I dont want to try to get a big brake kit so what should i do?

 

rotors and spacers are 2 differnent things, if you get new rotors youll still need spacers,

and you shoulbe have any problems that I know of

 

will a 42 offset fit on a balt 2.2 that is SOrry for hijacking

 

You're driving on borrowed time there.

Material was removed from the rim, to get the lugnut to catch.... What you're supposed to go it get stronger longer lug studs. Second those slip on types of spacers are illegal to use in drag racing for a reaon, they can sheer lug studs, and well youre wheel isnt attached anymore.


These are the correct type of wheel spacer to use. But also some states even for road use, ban these types of spacers.
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.18/.f

not these
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3563
put in a zip code to see pic.

 

You really kindda screwed yourself now. You should have never drilled the wheels, that was bad, and they are destroyed now. You should have never had to drill them if they where the right kind of wheel for the car. When they didn't fit the first time, that should have been your hint to send them back.

No, new rotors will not solve your problem.

What size tire are you running that you had to even use a spacer in the first place? What size offset is the wheel? What is the wheel?

And for the other guy, 42mm offset is the stock size, so you're golden. Anything from 42 to about 38 should be fine.

 

um. WOW.

park the car.

how much thread are you really catching with the lugnut? i don't think you could have much more than 2 maybe 3 threads deep. maybe that will be ok. MAYBE but once you take the lug nuts off and put them back on a few times you stand a very good chance of stripping the threads right off the stud.

Get some good spacers. I have used the solid aluminum ones, they are expensive but very nice. you won't ever have to worry about them. For the time being put the stock wheels back on. no need to kill yourself (or anyone else) over having wheels that look good.

about the rotors, it might be possible to have them machined and true them up. they might be beyond repair too. I would rather spend a few bucks getting the rotors turned rather than spend a few hundred bucks on new rotors. Aftermarket ones won't have a tinner mounting area, and if they do it won't be anything significant. you COULD have them machined down a little to pick up some extra clearance, but all thats a half assed way to fix one problem while giving yourself another.

Just do it right and be done with it.

 

ok well the rim shop made the holes bigger so that a lug nut could go in deeper inside the rim and the spacer so it is catching fine... the lug nut is smaller at one end so it can go inside both

what could be the reason my rotors are hitting my rims?

 

Because you have the wrong rims for the car.

Take em off, e-bay them, and got ones that fit proprerly. Your safety is literaly in your hands.

 

Maybe I'm misunderstanding you. Did you drill the holes in the rims deeper so that you can get more lug through it, or did you drill it wider so that you can fit the lug nut in the hole?

Also, now you are saying the brake rotor is physically touching the wheel? Where at? Obviously its supposed to contact is on the face of the rotor hat to the back of the wheel. That's what holds everything together. Where else is it touching?

 

They drilled the holes wider so the deeper lug nut could fit.... the wheel was scraping the caliper, so they added a spacer

 

my concern would be that if they had to enlarge the hole on the rim to get the lug to catch the stud, its likely that there is very little thread in the nut, that is very weak. not only could a hard turn stretch the threads and possibly cause the wheel to come off the car, but simply tightening the nut a few times (or even once) could stretch the threads and strip them out.

if the wheel is scraping the caliper then your wheels are too small. they could have some funky design, but most likely they are too small. what size are they?

 

what kind of cobalt do you have? ss/sc? also do you know what offset the wheels are you have and which motegi rims are they?

 

Okay, I understand a little better now. If the wheel had an interference fit with the brake caliper, then the wheels you got are simply not right for the car. I'm guessing they where contacting each other at the face, and not at the circumference, correct? The spoke designe of your wheel is simply not compatible with the car.

Sorry dude, they have to go. Don't keep using them in that condition.

 

Motegi SP5 and they are suppose to fit my car 07 SS/SC

 

I would tell you to contact Motegi and inform them of the problem so you could arrange a return. But you already drilled the wheels, so you are stuck with them.

 

Depending on what the rim shop did, I think they should be stuck with them. If they just did it, the wheels now belong to them in my opinion. If they told you doing this will more or less ruin the wheels and make them undesirable to anyone else and you still said go ahead and do it, then its your problem.

If you get stuck with them, which I'm guessing you will, take them to a (different) rim shop that does custom wheel work. they will be able to weld the holes shut, then re-drill them to factory specs. they you can sell them.

There MIGHT be another option for you. if you take them to a good rim shop they might be able to modify the wheel to clear your calipers. I see what your problem is now, I think it might be an easy fix. They could either take out a little material from the back side of the rim, if it doesn't hurt it structurally, or work with the hub area to extend it a little for you.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't just go and list them on ebay and let some unsuspecting person end up with jacked up wheels. If you want to do that at least advertise them as being drilled out.

 

these come with the longer studs http://www.gravanatuning.com/applica...cers_for_5x110 If they had to drill the holes wider only on the front it sounds like you got 5x100's on the front, its a vw size and real close, but not right. I'd see if the rears fit with the spacers and if they do take the fronts back to the shop (I assume you bought the wheels where they were installed) and have them get the correct 5x110's. If the rears don'tfit, somethings wrong, because the back is the same pattern as the front. Deeper I could see, wider, not so much.

 

the rears dont need spacers but the fronts do.... I also want to know if anyone would like a set of them if they have the spacers because they sent me to sets of the rims

 

Maybe I am reading it wrong. But I get the impression that he did not drill the opening wider to fit the lugs but that he took some extra material off the face of the rim so that the lugs will reach the opening. Kinda why you start using tuner lug nuts on some rims cuz the opening is too narrow for a regular hex lug nut.

 

How do they get installed? Is it a difficult process?

its like the face of the wheel is too deep for the brake calipers, why is this?

 

Isnt this like your 3rd thread?

 

Billet adapters bolt onto the car just as a wheel would. The adapters have their own studs that the rim bolts onto. This design is just as strong as without adapters, since the stud forces haven't changed. The adapters are made from a billet cylinder of 6061 T6 Aluminum. The billet is machined to fit over the hub, with stud holes drilled to fit. Studs are pressed through the adapter to which the rims are bolted onto. The adapter is then slipped over the car's studs and bolted on. The rims finally bolt on as usual. You are compensating for too much backspace, bolt pattern and offset may be correct. There are 3 variables to consider on the mount.

 

due i think you need tp post up some pix here so we can get a better idea of what ur talkin about. i did a little searchin here and found that the rims ur talkin about have a 45 offset and the website does list em for a cobalt ss...im wonderin what ur deal is here...




17x7 -
http://rims-n-tires.com/rt_wheelfit....tegi&model=SP5

18x7.5 -
http://rims-n-tires.com/rt_wheelfit....tegi&model=SP5

19x8.5 -
http://rims-n-tires.com/rt_wheelfit....tegi&model=SP5

 

I did some of that same looking, but since I wasn't sure of which size he has exactly, I couldn't post up. A 45mm offset would in fact be a problem. The stock size is 42. Anything less is okay, but more would cause the problem he talks about.

 

So they would hit my calipers then?