Well, these GM stage 2 blue bolts are tightened on by Chuck Norris! I tried to get them off over the weekend and resulted in breaking the tip off the socket wrench bit that comes with the kit.

Now that i'm without a bit, does anyone have any advise on how to get the supercharger bolts off? I have replacement bolts already, so i don't care how these blue bolts get taken out, as long as they do. Any ideas?

 

Drill em out, they put blue loctite on em so you cant take em off!

 

They put red loctite on mine. Had to temove the supercharger and apply torch heat to bolts to melt the red loctite to remove after I had drilled the bolt heads off of them as my bit broke also. Without heat red loctite requires over 400 ft/lbs torque to remove.

The s/c was a 10 min job to remove and 10 mins back on so its no big deal. The only PITA was trying to get the plug under s/c it disconnected but i just took the tb off instead from s/c which took 1 minute and didnt have to mess with that hard to get at plug.

I put blue threadlocker on to secure mine after as they will vibrate loose eventually if you dont use some sort of threadlocker. Blue is easy to brek bolts with about 40 ft lbs.

 

It looks like i'm gonna be taking my supercharger off this weekend then! What'd you use to heat the bolts up?\


*edit! nevermind, i see you torched it*

 

Good luck man, took me and my friends a while to get his stuff off. He got 3 off...but the 4th was stripped and we chistled and drilled at that thing for 2 hours.

 

It turned out I just wasnt heating up the bolts enough when it was on the car or they would have broken free.

I used a map gas torch (yellow tank). Try heating up the bolt heads that are still on there first till they are pretty hot (at least 400 degrees and glowing in my case), then take some vice grips and see if they will move. If not then its drill time. Just get a cobalt grade drill bit (cause they are hard bolts and a bitch to drill). I wanted to use a 5/16 as it would have been the perfect size to drill the heads off but it wasnt working very well, so I jused a 17/64 instead and it went fine. Bit got really hot so had to keep cooling it every 20 seconds of drill time.

Dont go too far in or crooked or you will ruin the hub threads behind the bolt head. Gotta watch the drilling closely when it just starts to cut away the back of the head from threaded shank part, then work bit around the edges to break it free. Once pulley is off I still had to heat the remaining threaded end sticking out of hub up red hot to get them to break free.