has anyone upgraded the clutch on their ss yet? i'm about to buy a stage 2 spec and i wanted to know if there were any issues with the intall

i wasn't going to upgrade, but my clutch is starting to act funny and i'm sure that if i put another 40-50hp fromt the stage kit, it'll be gone within a week.

also if anyone knows of a cheaper place other than gravan to order one... $589 is too much, i should be able to get it for around $500 somewhere

 

I don't know where you can order the SPEC clutch any cheaper, but if you can wait a little while someone on the Red Line forums is working with a company to get a clutch made for our cars. He says that the will be much cheaper then the ones Gravana is selling.

Here is a thread about it http://www.******************/forums/...have-pics.html

 

If your clutch is slipping, take it to the dealer! You paid for the warranty!

The Grand Am Cup Cobalts are using these factory clutches with Stage 2+, I'm sure you probably just got a faulty one, or it was improperly broken in. (even a couple of bad test drives could have done this)

TAKE IT TO THE DEALER.

 

I just bought the stage 3 clutch from gravana... its ******* bad ass. it shifts so nice and so clean, and the torque is good too. handles all that well. im taking it to the track tommorrow so i will be able to give entire specs tommorrow aftert that.

 

dealers usually will not cover clutches because they are considered a "wearable" item. anyways, why the hell would i want another shitty clutch in there, just so when i get up to my goal of around 300whp i can burn it up again and have to go through the hassle of buying a new clutch then


i seen the spec clutches, but RSM is supposed to have a pretty good clutch and it's almost $150 cheaper than the SPEC

 

How do you like it on the street? Have you tried it much on hills on anytime you need to use the friction point? From what I had heard the Stage 3 was pretty much track only.

 

How much is would a Stage 3 clutch run ya? I have the factory clutch in mine as of now and its starting to slip. The car is still 100% stock. I think these stock clutches suck. I'm gonna get it warrentied because its BS that it went out at 4K miles.

If i were to upgrade the clutch, would that void my warrenty at all?

How much HP are the Stage 2 and Stage 3 clutchs good for?

I wonder if theres any way i could get GM to upgrade my current clutch to say a stage 2 or 3 and discount the value of the factory clutch somehow.

 

RSM racing has one for the Cobalt for 450 $

http://www.rsmracing.com/Images/clutch.JPG

 

Here is another thread. It's regarding track use, but might help.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums//showthread.php?t=8481

 

I posted a time slip from the track this afternoon on my new stage 3 clutch from gravana. The shift points are so much better... you no longer need to redline before shifting... just to about 6 grand then shift, and the torque will carry over nicely. It was kinda fun to get used to... lol... after years of driving a standard... all stock... and now getting the stage 3... lol... I stalled 2 times. But anyways... here are the numbers... I have the webshots site... so go here...

http://community.webshots.com/user/cobaltss12

If you cant see it. Here are the times. It was against a 350Z mind that.

Cobalt SS/SC #276
R/T .129
60' 2.162
330 5.999
MPH 59.94
1/8 9.129
MPH 77.97

Nissan 350Z #284
R/T .076
60' 2.256
330 6.160
MPH 59.82
1/8 9.305
MPH 76.736

 

just got a reply back from rsm, they said their clutches for the ss is a stage 3 and will handle 350-400bhp and it's $450, but they said they were out of stock and it will take 2-3 weeks once ordered to get them in

maybe we could get a group buy going on these?

 

Great 60' times what method of launching are you using

 

I was scared to get stage 3 they told me it was a pain in the butt for street use, so I have the stage 2, but I love it, holds the torque and hp when I spray so it doesn't break again

 

yea im with you i love a stage 3 clutch group buy session...mmmmm clutch. im learning how to drive and i love the evilness of it all. automatics are evil. manuals are sexy

 

Im launching regular... but they key is... tire pressure. I know these tires are NOT made ofr drag, but you can make them. I dropped both tires down to about 15PSI. Its low, but youll be ok. It gets rid of the wheel hop. Dont stage your car at a high RPM. 2300RPM is what I have figured out to be the best, with the Cobalt. The higher RPMs you stage at, then dump the clutch, will only cause more wheel hop. We have FWD and just putting all that HP to the front wheels that quick, will cause tire spin and ultimatley, wheel hop, which doesnt help. Plus youll burn your clutch alot faster doing higher RPMs on the start. 2300RPM gives you just enough power to get going, and limits wheel hop to little or zero and you will get through 1st to 2nd to 3rd much much quicker that way. Try it sometime... even at a stop light... it will work wonders.