steering shaft or column

 

My cousin has an 06 Cobalt ls coupe, and she is continually hearing a loud thunk whenever she takes a hard right turn. She has had the car aligned and the tires checked, any ideas? Any info would be appreciated

 

I think when I was reading a few months ago under SI when i was at work, there was something abot clunking and it had to do with Backlash in the Electronic power steering. It ould be that or a few other things.

 

The most common cause is either the steering shaft or the electric column. Typically though those items will make noise in both directions. Only to the right is most likley suspention related.

 

moved to Suspension

 

There's a TSB for the intermediate shaft. Take it in and have them replace it.

 

TSB????

 

Technical Service Bulletin. Not really a recall just a "just so you know, if you see a car with this symptom, this is the fix"

 

technical service bulletin

 

90% of the time it's the I-shaft on most newer Chevys (Uplander, Malibu, Impala, Silverado etc)

either replace it (recommended) or lube it

 

i hate replaceing the Ishaft on a cobalt. silverados are a piee of cake though

 

how the hell did the post order get reearranged??

 

what specifically fails on the I-shaft???

I have stg 2 axles, and dont really want GM techs pulling my baby apart

 

where do you fina a technical service bulletin?

 

ive had my intermitent shaft replaced
and now got a new clunk sway bar bushing are toast
dealer cant even get me those parts

 

Ask and ye shall receive
Pulled this directly off GM dealer World

Subject: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns - Clunk, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repair) #04-03-08-006B - (08/27/2007)



Models: 2005-2008 Chevrolet Cobalt

2006-2008 Chevrolet HHR

2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)

2007-2008 Pontiac G5

2003-2007 Saturn ION




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This bulletin is being updated to add models, model years and additional conditions. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-08-006A (Section 03 - Suspension).


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This bulletin provides information on six different steering/front suspension noise conditions.

Condition #1
Some customers may comment on a rattle or knocking noise that is heard in the front of the vehicle while driving at low speeds (5-15 mph [8-24 km/h]). This condition may be more noticeable while making a slow turn or on a loose/rough surface.

This condition can be duplicated by the technician using the following procedure:

On a rough or loose surface (i.e., gravel parking lot), make a sweeping turn (either direction) at 5-15 mph (8-24 km/h) to load the steering column, I-shaft and steering rack/gear mechanisms. (The testing on a rough or loose surface will allow the wheels to oscillate slightly and will make the rattle/knocking noise more evident and repeatable.)
Release the steering wheel while making the turn to take load off of steering components. This should initiate the rattle/shudder noise which is generated by backlash in the steering assembly as it is in a no-load float condition.



Remove the 60 amp EPS fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block.
Test the vehicle as in Step 1. Since the EPS motor is no longer powered, only the I-shaft and steering gear/rack will be loaded as you make the turn. If you hear the rattle/knocking noise during the turn, then the noise is being generated by the backlash within the steering column (assist motor gear mechanism).
Replace the 60 amp EPS fuse and repeat Steps 1 and 2 to verify that the rattle/knocking noise disappears when turning (loading steering mechanism) and can only be heard when releasing the steering wheel.
Correction #1
If the steering column is identified as the source of the rattle/knocking noise in the above test, replace the steering column.

Important: The noise in the steering column is generated from the metal to plastic gear backlash of the assist motor mechanism and will have a different sound than that from the steering gear. If the customer comments that they still hear a noise, it may be a different sound from either the I-shaft or the steering rack.

If the steering column is not identified as the source of the rattle/knocking in the above test, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Parts Information #1
Part Number
Description

15914408
Kit, Steering Column (Cobalt/ G5/ Pursuit)

15806195
Kit, Steering Column (HHR)

15832557
Kit, Steering Column (2003-2004 ION)

10392742
Kit, Steering Column (2005-2007 ION)


Warranty Information #1
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E7680
Column Assembly, Steering -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time


Condition #2
Some customers may comment on a whine/hum noise from the steering column while making right hand turns at 5-15 mph (8-24 km/h). A slight whine/hum noise is considered to be normal for EPS so it will be helpful to compare to another like vehicle. If the vehicle exhibits excessive feedback/noise when compared to another vehicle, follow the correction procedure below.

Correction #2
Important: DO NOT replace the steering column.





Pull the 60 amp steering fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block. If this eliminates the whine/hum concern, contact the Technical Assistance Center for further information in order to repair the vehicle. If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Condition #3
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition can also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once for every 90° of steering wheel rotation in either direction. This clunk noise may also be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel.

The following are characteristics of this noise:

• This noise is very random.

• This noise is independent of the steering wheel angle and independent of the bumpiness of the road.

• This noise is a low frequency dull one and can be felt in your feet.

• This noise can normally be heard from the driver seat.

• This noise can be felt upon touching the steering gear from outside of the vehicle.

Note that you might also notice a slight scrub-type noise when turning the wheel back and forth. This type of noise is considered normal and repairs will not eliminate it.

Cause #3
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft.

Correction #3
Important: DO NOT replace the steering gear or steering column assembly.

Replace the intermediate shaft.

Important: If the vehicle has already had a steering intermediate shaft replaced for a similar noise concern that the dealer duplicated, determine from the customer if the noise went away for a period of time and came back, or if the service shaft made no change. If the noise was gone for a period of time and came back, have the dealer replace the shaft again to verify we do not have a defective service shaft.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Parts Information #3
Part Number
Description

15800140
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (Cobalt/G5/Pursuit)

15799676
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (ION)

22730246
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (HHR)


Warranty Information #3
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time


Condition #4
Some customers may comment on a rattle/clunk type noise coming from the steering column when driving over bumps.

Correction #4
The following steps have been found to be very effective in removing this condition.





Check for the possibility of the PCM and the TCM rattling/clunking together. If there is contact between these two modules, insulate the modules from each other using a small piece of foam.



Check that the retaining clip on the engine coolant surge tank is fully seated. If not, push down to seat.
Rattles/clunks in this area of the engine compartment may be heard as coming from the steering column while driving.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Warranty Information #4
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E9458*
Repair to Correct Rattle/Clunk Noise in Front of Vehicle
0.2 hr

* This is a unique labor operation number for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.


Condition #5 (FE1 Suspension Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk, thump or rattle noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road conditions or when braking.

Cause #5




This condition may be caused by the lower control arm rubber bushing (rear) coming out of its steel sleeve (1). This will cause the lower control arm to make hard contact (2) with the body structure. This condition may be more prevalent in regions that use road salt during the winter months.

Correction #5
If the rubber bushing has moved out of the steel sleeve, replace the lower control arm bushing. Do not replace the bushing if it is still centered in the steel sleeve.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose using chassis ears to identify the source of the noise.

Parts Information #5
Part Number
Description

15240087
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (Cobalt/G5/HHR/Pursuit)

22688205
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (ION)


Warranty Information #5
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E3550
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Right) -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time

E3551
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Left) -- Replace

E3557
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Both) -- Replace


Condition #6 (Saturn ION Only)
Some customers may comment on a squeak, rattle, pop, or clunk noise coming from the front of the vehicle during suspension movement.

Cause #6
This condition may be caused by the interface between the front stabilizer shaft, the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and the front stabilizer shaft mounting clamp.

Correction #6
Replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), if necessary, using the following procedure.

Verify the customer comment. Use Chassis Ear (SA9217NE or J39570) or a similar tool to determine the source of the noise. Refer to Noise Diagnosis - Front Suspension in SI.
If the noise is coming from either the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) or the clamps:

Important: Check the Service Parts Identification label in the rear compartment (trunk) to determine the vehicle's suspension system type, then obtain the correct insulators (bushings) corresponding to that suspension system type.


• On vehicles built after VIN breakpoint 4Z125195, replace both front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings). Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.

• On vehicles built up to and including VIN 4Z125195, replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and clamps. Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.

Verify the repair by repeating Step 1.
Parts Information #6
Part Number
Description
Qty

15820162
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2007 FE1 Suspension)
2

15820163
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2007 FE2 Suspension)
2

15820164
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2003-2007 FE3 Suspension)
2

22722387
Clamp, Front Stabilizer Shaft
2


Warranty Information #6
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E2180
Insulator and/or Bracket, Front Stabilizer Shaft -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time




GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
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Š Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

 

Thanks for the info montecarloman!

 

I was wondering the same. WTF?!

 

so i took my car to the chevy dealer wednesday to check out the clunk sound, so i had to get a rental car because they didnt look at my car till 5pm yesterday. i told them about the tsb about the intermediate shaft and exactly what needed to be done to fix the car and they told me that because i put eibach springs on the car they could not replace the intermediate shaft under warranty implying that the part is making noise because the car is not on factory springs. the service writer said put the factory springs back on before he can do any warranty work on the steering.

im stuck with the clunk sound i guess, anyone have any suggestions on how to deal with the dealer and just have them replace the part they know is faulty on their vehicles??

 

They dont "know" that its faulty. Intermediate shafts arent really a common failure on the Balt/G5. On Impala/monte/lacrosse, sure. G6s make so much noise its ridiculous, but Balts are probablt the quietest of the fwd vehicles. Cobalt columns do make noise, BIG dealers probably do one aweek. I can count all the Cobalt I-shafts ive ever replaced on one hand. Thats a pretty small percentage compared to the number of Cobalts and G5s ive ever worked on.

Your best bet would be to be nice, ask them if they can explain how the springs are affecting a noise from the steering system.(if thats where its from) There is no part of steering diagnostics that mentions suspension. HOWEVER.....if you get the to look at it, and it ends up being endlinks, or strut bearings.....you can BE SURE youll be on the hook for that.

 

they suggest just lubing the i-shaft if it is indeed clunking...... gm superlube ftw

 

thanks for the tips guys

 

Lubing the shaft is a temporary fix. When the lube wears out you get the slip-stick again. Unless youve got a W-body or an 800 series truck you dont have real clunkng in the I-shaft anyway

 

Had the same clunk. It happened periodically when I stopped, backed out of my driveway, turned left or right. I figure it was because I always had my steering column tilted down to the max. IT was the intermediate steering shaft in the end. Fixed under warranty.