I just installed the TTR upper motor mount two days ago & man it shakes the **** out of the car, I have the GMPP sports Exhaust & the vibrations drownd out the exhaust WTF is this normal? It's installed proper & tight.

I have yet to install the trans mount bushings & was wondering if they will help increase or decrease the vibrations as I'm asumming they will increase!

I have also heard that with time & breakin the vibrations decrease & I'm thinking in warmer weather they will also decrease but right now I'm thinking of removing the TTR mount & going back stock?

 

I dont know about the vibrations being THAT bad, but I know the more time and miles on them it will lessen.

 

Wait it out for a thousand miles or so. It should tone down quite a bit.

 

Don't put the trans mount inserts in it makes it way worse. And doesn't help with the wheel hop anymore than just the front mount as far as I could tell.I took them out.

 

yea, it shakes the car. it's a solid mount. a solid mount won't break in because there's nothing to break in. it's just solid. the bushings break in a bit after a few hundred miles.

boggles my mind, these posts. didn't you know it was going to vibrate after the install? it's like putting on a new exhaust, and then complaining that it's louder than stock. makes no sense to me.

 

Well I knew it would vibrate but you would have to feel it as it's just crazy on the amount And it has a bushing, it's called Urethane you know that thing between the two metal pieces, Solid would be metal to metal . I have ran solid mounts on other cars & trucks but they were V8's so the ballance is abit better I guess I just didn't realize how bad this motor shakes till you try to hold it

I use this car as a daily driver & I guess in trying to make the wheel hop go away i have to decide as to what extent I'm willing to go to do this !

I am still looking at making a lower derometer Urethane bushing for the upper mount as I have connections

 

o, ok. i could have sworn the ttr one was solid, my bad. good luck swapping out the bushing!

 

Mounts and inserts will only do so much. The TTR is considered a solid motor mount, so there is going to be a lot of vibration. I would only consider putting that product on a car that you drive once and awhile or just at the track. I have them and my cobalt is for weekends and tracks only. It does vibrate a good amount but thats the point of the mount. If you want to try to get rid of the hop and not have a **** ton of vibration id go with the ingalls and traction bars.

 

False Knock FTL

 

i have the solid mounts and tranny mounts and no false knock is getting picked up.

 

Take everything out of your glove box and doors...

 

a weekend and track only cobalt? what does it run if you don't mind me asking.

 

ITD and trac bars are not going to stop wheel hop...

 

yea, the ingalls does almost nothing. i mean it's better with it on than with it off, but it's def. not going to get rid of wheel hop at all.

 

thats a false statement. i ran the ingalls for a very long time and never had any wheel hop at the 11mm setting.

 

it's not a false statement, because my car hopped like crazy with it on unless I babied the hell out of first. with just the ingalls, i was never able to go more than about 40% throttle without the fear of braking anything.

 

I never had any wheel hop. Not a bit after I put the ingalls on. I had it almost at the hardest setting. I could launch and get straight into it hard in first and spin the tires and then hard to 2nd and continue to spin without hopping at all

 

All depends on road conditions, quality of tires, and whp output. Trust me, the ITD is not a fix, it's a band-aid. At it's stiffest setting, it will help control wheel hop; however, you would also need CAB's, trans mounts and possibly springs to ensure wheel hop would not happen in all conditions...

 

do you have the lsd? i don't, and i know that makes a difference. but with just the ingalls i couldn't go wot untill the middle of 2nd. now with the ingalls and the prothane mounts i can get almost wot in 1st, and can go wot at about 50. ever since i put my header/dp on though the wheels want to break loose at the top of 2nd now

smaller wheels help too, i never get wheel hop with my 16's on, they jsut spin like crazy.

 

Thats strange I can go almost WOT in first gear on a moment notice.
But I do have the LSD. But surely it can't make that much of a diffrence?
But it must as everyone says the ETD is useless once you go stage 2 but I've been stage 2 and 2.9 pullied for months now and the ETD still holds strong. Only time I have issues is at the track, on a regular road I can spin to my hearts content.

Glad I got the G85 package if it's true.

 

yea, i took a friend for a test drive after i put the mounts on, and he pretty much laughed and said something like "wow, that was a waste of time and money"

 

It's just odd it takes an lsd to make the ETD worth a darn.
I put the dampener on my car drove up the block got on it hard and it was the first time I stood in one place with the tires just spinning and thier was no wheel hop. Any one outside the car just sees tires peeling out. The once horrible god awful shaking of my compartment from wheel hop dissapeared completely. Even after stage 2 I noticed no change in it's ablility to hold the engine down.

I don't want to come off as degrading toward you D4u2s0t you probably know alot more than I do but are you sure you tighten the ETD down when you got it? World of diffrence. I have it one turn off of tightest it will go and the cabin vibrations are very minimal.

Well sounds like G85 is the better traction giver.

 

Times are coming this spring. I have the LSD as well and if you know what you're doing with the ingalls you can eliminate a **** ton of wheel hop. But that would mean you would have to know how to adjust it, as i have just read some have.

D4u2s0t i don't know whats wrong with your set up but i have ran that before when i had my supercharger on and it does help a lot "IF" you tighten the ingalls down properly. Don't assume that out of the box is all you get.

As far as me, i removed my ingalls to save room for my turbo air intake piping. I now have the TTR mount, Traction bars and I'm thinking about getting solid trans mounts. The difference for me is ill be near 400whp compared to your guys' 260-280whp.

Oh if you're wondering ill save you the effort of typing.... GT3076r, HKS SSQ BOV, TiAL 44mm wastegate, Hahn portfueler turbo intake, custom made trubo manifold, and a air to air intercooler brand not decided on as of yet. There's the basics ill be running.

 

I'll believe it when I see it. We all know the guys that are actually turbo. You bring me pics and a dyno slip, then I'll give you the respect they've earned...

 

haha thats good Edubs, you know who 06black is on here? The one with the DD with the dyno sheets of 388whp(on stock internals) with his set up, ya i helped build that set up and im building one just as good if not a little better right now for me, since i will be getting rid of the stock lsj intake manifold and running with hahns portfueler setup. So i have proof thanks Edubs for throwing your .2 worthless cents in.