Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

If your a heavy road racer contact John Powell and have him set you up with floaters up front. They are pricey but I have mine since late 09 and they are finally starting to get to the point of wearing down to replacement levels. I dd and track these.

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

These are next on my list after my winter head build. 900 bucks a set iirc.

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

yep. they rock.

PyroSiege

I've heard that a fair bit, actually. However, I've had great luck with Powerslot slotted rotors. They have been on my car a long time now. With them and my Carbotech pads they have absolutely 0 fade. My fluid went first at this super tight course I used to go to. I'm tempted to go back to stock rotors, but I like these Powerslots so much.

I'm probably going to get Cryo treated ones next time. I just had to replace my rears a year ago or so and I put those on the rear. The cryo treatment works amazing. It took like 2 weeks of driving before the machine scratches started going away. It sure makes them tough.

Obviously they aren't going to beat those Floating rotors from Powell, but for the price, I like em.


I wish the Autocrosses we did around here were like this. Looks like you can get much more speed, stretch the ol turbo. haha.

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, as soon as I can justify going from the SS/SC brakes to the Brembo's I wanna also go with the floating rotors

Jacque8080

Powell CABs installed. The steering feels more responsive along with much less torque steer. I used a ball join install/removal tool.

Jacque8080

I am having trouble removing the plastic cap on the back of the sway bar end links. Do you guys have any tips? Also, should I get OEM replacement or the Power Grid ones? I'm worried that I don't have the skills to adjust the PowerGrid to be effective.

calo247

why are you removing the plastic cap? just use a impact and try to get the nut off, if that does not work you have to use a set of visegrips to hold the shaft when you undo the nut.

get the powergrids and just set them as short as they will go and be happy

r1owner

Vid of my best lap at Gateway MSP earlier this year...

robertmichaels

iTrader: (1)

posting for later....

from a glance looks like some good information here. I like to run road course and with Road America only 10min from my house, I have also gone up to Brainerd for the MAP proving grounds...

I feel after my engine build this winter I may need to invest in a better break set up, I currently run stock rotors with hawk DTC-70's and motul RBF 600 break fluid

robertmichaels

iTrader: (1)

This was back when I was stock GM stage 3 with the 3" pulley on the m62

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

Have you considered upgrading to Brembos? I run stock (lnf) rotors and DTC-70s myself, and I don't believe it gets much better than that. I use the Prospeed RS683 brake fluid, works great as well. I wish I had more Cobalts to run with at my local track. My LNF racing buddy just moved to Oregon. Although I believe this next season there may be 2 LNF sedans joining in the fun

Whitnith

iTrader: (2)

Brembos work great at RA. I run either Type 200 or Super Blue (Because I'm a hoarder and still have some...) and the stock pads were fine. When I started running slicks I upgraded to a more aggressive pad (Raybestos ST-43) and they are amazing. I just use some basic Centric solid rotors, since they are cheap and take the abuse just fine.

robertmichaels

iTrader: (1)

I will need to upgrade to bigger brakes in the future, but after my engine and trans build this year there is no more room in my budget for a while. I need to talk to powell to see what he charges for upgrading my trans over taking it to performance autowerks which is a 3hr drive and I can drop my trans off and avoid shipping both ways ~$600 worth of shipping

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

600 bucks?? Are you shipping cross-border? I shipped my trans from Denver to Powell (Niagara Falls) for like 85 bucks one way. UPS ground.

robertmichaels

iTrader: (1)

I will have to look into that then, I just assumed based on what I see for shipping cost from companies when you order large items like that

Jacque8080

Come to Bowling Green and help me embarrass some Corvettes.

What are your local tracks out there? I came to Denver on business a few times. But I drove the Cobalt.

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

So we have done a lot of upgrades and mods over the winter to get ready for 2016. After taking the Redline Time Attack Street FWD Championship last season, we are focusing on Running Global Time Attack's Pro/Am Series and Super Lap Battle again this year, maybe a few redline events as time and money allow.

Might make a dedicated thread for 2016 season, not sure yet.

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

"My" track is High Plains Raceway. http:/www.highplainsraceway.com
There's also Pikes Peak International Raceway and Pueblo Motorsports Park, but I have never been to the latter two.

Jacque8080

I just got my first alignment done on my car. I have 0.050 degrees toe out, 1.20 degrees of negative camber, and I'm ready to rock.

Yes, it is a daily driver. And it is not twitchy on the highway. It just removes the null zone, on center steering response.

And what do you guys think about this?

Evasive Motorsports | PH: 626.336.3400 Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm PST: Project Mu G-four 335 Racing Brake Fluid

Whitnith

iTrader: (2)

Honestly, that fluid seems like overkill, at least in our cars. I run Type 200 at Road America and have never had an issue, and it's brutal on brakes. They use it in a heavier Evo, which might need it.

yellowsupercharged06

iTrader: (3)

I use ATE 200 ... i still have a full bottle of Blue too ... shhhhh

how long is this stuff good for btw, its un-opened ?

r1owner

That's a good question. I still have an unopened can as well.

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

I use motul 660. Anything dot4 is fine

Hemphog

iTrader: (2)

I also have an unopened Blue, but after more than 10 years, might not be 'sealed'