Clutch Replacement Recommended Shop in Edmonton?
03-13-2012, 12:54 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 04-29-10
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Clutch Replacement Recommended Shop in Edmonton?
Hello,
I have a 2008 SS (2.0L LNF) and I have the GM upgrade. This upgrade has given me soo much power/torque that the stock clutch slips in 3rd,4th & 5th under max acceleration (WOT).
I ordered a new clutch and flywheel from SPEC, a stage 2+ dual disk and the flywheel, and just got them today.
I have two questions and any input would be appreciated.
1. What other parts should I replace while changing the clutch?
2. Is there any mechanical shops in Edmonton or Area that I can trust to do this work for me?
(I have had bad experiences with dealerships in Edmonton and I don’t want to give them any more of my business)
I have the service manual and alldata and I don’t think I want to take on this job without a lift.
Thank you
I have a 2008 SS (2.0L LNF) and I have the GM upgrade. This upgrade has given me soo much power/torque that the stock clutch slips in 3rd,4th & 5th under max acceleration (WOT).
I ordered a new clutch and flywheel from SPEC, a stage 2+ dual disk and the flywheel, and just got them today.
I have two questions and any input would be appreciated.
1. What other parts should I replace while changing the clutch?
2. Is there any mechanical shops in Edmonton or Area that I can trust to do this work for me?
(I have had bad experiences with dealerships in Edmonton and I don’t want to give them any more of my business)
I have the service manual and alldata and I don’t think I want to take on this job without a lift.
Thank you
03-13-2012, 01:40 PM
#2
Only other things to change are the TOB and the little clutch pipe that goes from the TOB to the clutch line coming from the master. The TOB/slave should be changed since it is a wear part and it is only 3 extra bolts while you have the trans out of the car.
The clutch pipe I always change at the same time, as it may not seal perfectly when it gets re-used and you do have to drop the trans again to change it if that is the case. Also, it's only about $9, so it's not worth skipping over it and having to re-do a bunch of labor.
As far as the job, i've done a bunch of them on the ground, it's not that bad once you learn the procedure, and if you plan a weekend to tackle it you can do it. I'd suggest being VERY thorough and careful, make sure everything is clean and tightened down properly, and it's doable. Hardest part on the ground is putting the trans back up, if you have a helper it makes it much easier, but i've done a couple by myself just the same.
Also, just noticed, since you are changing the flywheel you should replace the flywheel bolts as they are TTY. I've re-used them on occasion and never had an issue, but it's not the correct way to do it. Again, they are cheap insurance.
The clutch pipe I always change at the same time, as it may not seal perfectly when it gets re-used and you do have to drop the trans again to change it if that is the case. Also, it's only about $9, so it's not worth skipping over it and having to re-do a bunch of labor.
As far as the job, i've done a bunch of them on the ground, it's not that bad once you learn the procedure, and if you plan a weekend to tackle it you can do it. I'd suggest being VERY thorough and careful, make sure everything is clean and tightened down properly, and it's doable. Hardest part on the ground is putting the trans back up, if you have a helper it makes it much easier, but i've done a couple by myself just the same.
Also, just noticed, since you are changing the flywheel you should replace the flywheel bolts as they are TTY. I've re-used them on occasion and never had an issue, but it's not the correct way to do it. Again, they are cheap insurance.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DANRICKARD
Problems/Service/Maintenance
8
10-01-2015 12:08 AM
