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3 problems with new clutch installation

This is a discussion on 3 problems with new clutch installation within the Problems/Service/Maintenance forums, part of the General category; Okay, so i bought an exedy clutch kit because the ring gear broke loose from the flywheel in my spec ...

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Old 10-27-2011, 10:00 PM   #1
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3 problems with new clutch installation

Okay, so i bought an exedy clutch kit because the ring gear broke loose from the flywheel in my spec clutch, and the 3 bolts holding it in place completely devoured the spec flywheel and took some chunks out of my engine block. Now ive never done this kind of work before, but i decided that i could do it by myself (shame on me) and i replaced the clutch and flywheel myself. Ive run into three major problems, i kind of over looked the first and second one and hoped for the best, and thethird is a complete road block.

Problem 1-when i went to put the new exedy flywheel on, the bolt holes didnt line up, i may have been in too much of a hurry to get my car back on the road to try every position of the holes to see if they would line up i managed to get 6 of them on, with 2 of them being slightly crooked, thinking that would be enough to keep it in place. does the flywheel need to be in a specific position? or do you think exedy sent me a flywheel with mismatched holes? (im hoping its just me not doing it right)

Problem 2- when i was stabbing my transmission, in only slipped on part of the way, and i cranked it down the rest of the way with tightening the bolts mounting the transmission to the block. is that right? i wasnt sure, because in videos on different engines the transmission looks like it slides right up to the block. (i have the lsj engine, f35 trans) and on mine the slave cyl and the throwout bearing are one piece, and i wasnt sure if thats what was keeping it from sliding all the way up to the block, so like i said, i just tightened it down. was there a problem here? or is that normal?

Problem 3-after reassembling my car seemingly the right way(except for the 2 FW bolts of course) i went to go bleed the line to the slave cyl, when i got all the air out of the lines, i pumped the clutch pedal a few times and it got really stiff, like when you pump the brake pedal a few times when the car is off. eventually i pushed to hard on the clutch pedal and popped the clutch master cyl from the fire wall, any clues as to why my clutch pedal got really stiff like the brake lines?

please help, i miss my cobalt =[
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:21 PM   #2
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I think you should of quit while you were a head,popping the slave from the fire wall is big time work from what I understand.The whole dash has to come out to replace the metal part with the tabs on it,it won't help to just bend them back!
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:41 PM   #3
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where in texas are you located? you should have had someone help you who knows what they are doing. because you just did everything wrong. and will now have to take it all back apart...lesson learned though.
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:25 AM   #4
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Dfw
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:30 AM   #5
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:54 AM   #6
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Sounds okay. Just take it for a spin to double check everything works and you should be ready to rock
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:01 AM   #7
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Sounds okay. Just take it for a spin to double check everything works and you should be ready to rock
dick

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sounds like you may be learning from experiance here....


I have some service manuals avail though...will walk you through all of this step by step...lemme know if your interested, I can ship out same day if you need. 2006 Cobalt/G5 service manuals (all trim levels)
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:02 AM   #8
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dick
lmao





sounds like you may be learning from experiance here....


I have some service manuals avail though...will walk you through all of this step by step...lemme know if your interested, I can ship out same day if you need. 2006 Cobalt/G5 service manuals (all trim levels)
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:11 AM   #9
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seems legit.

pour some water on the ground and try doing a burnout with that beast.
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:19 AM   #10
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seems legit.

pour some water on the ground and try doing a burnout with that beast.
Home made burnout box ftw!
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:50 AM   #11
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I took it for a drive and it runs great! Thanks for all te help you guys =P
I'm just gonna take it to a transmission shop and let them deal with it.
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:03 PM   #12
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I really would not be driving it man all the bolts r needed for the flywheel and they will line up if u spin it till u find the right spot u r going to tear up the 1200 dollar clutch and maybe more also the transmission wil just slide back in if u got it lined up right
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:34 PM   #13
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listen up all you haters =P i took my transmission off again today to figure out what was wrong with it. starting with the flywheel. Yes, it does have to go on a certain way, for all of the holes to line up (just like dannysauer said) second, my transmission not sliding into place. my old spec clutch had this collar thing around the tips of all the fingures on the pressure plate, im guessing its sort of an extension to the throw out bearing because the spec was relatively thin. so me, the person whos never done this work before and did by themself, figured, that i should take that collar off the spec and put it on the exedy, because it didnt have one. that being why my transmission didnt slide in easy, and why the clutch pedal built up so much pressure. unfortunately though the clutch master cyl broke loose from the fire wall and i still have to fix that but,... i did it, figured it all out and didnt have to take it to a shop. score 1 Boxxy, Cobalt SS.net-0.

but i will say thank you to those of you who did try to help. btw, taking my transmission off today only took 2.5 hours, as oppose to the first time that took 9...
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:35 PM   #14
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i never drove it btw, i was kidding about that. no damage done
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Old 10-29-2011, 11:35 PM   #15
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Glad u got it man good job once u tear it down once it's no problem doing it again lol
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