I cant see anything in your vid, its too dark.....

The WILL go up when cranking if everything is ok with crank sensor, wiring, and ECM/BCM

You can disconnect the ICM on a running car and then crank it and youll see the tach go up to cranking speed.


I think we may be reaching the end of "online" diagnostics.

 

ya i have that feeling too. the dealer is like 10 mins away, but i dont have the cash for them to do anything with it until i get paid again, or possibly even the next paycheck which really sux....

 

If you were in the garden state instead of the potato state I could be more help

 

I lived in the garden state for 16 years... Just my luck isnt it?

How about i buy you a plane ticket here, prolly be cheaper then goin to the dealer haha.

 

my buddy nick is grabbing his friends code reader today so we can see if its just a sensor or something. if that doesn't work or it needs a new ECM im gonna bring it to the dealer and go from there.

 

Alright, just got a call from the dealer. They said that one of the yellow crank fuse terminal is spread open about a 1/4 inch so theres no contact whatsoever. So the car is throwing comm. codes which is causing my airbag message and power steering. They need to replace the whole fusebox but want 300 something for it plus labor. It would be $417 or something. F that i should be able to do it myself, no?

Does ANYONE have a spare fusebox or know where i could find one for cheaper? All help would be GREALY appreciated!!!!!

Oh, and my clutch switch, the connector for it has a spread terminal so they want to charge me like 100 for that. Screw that, ill just rig that **** for now or just make sure the terminal is lined up. No need to replace it right this second.

 

I dont think it would be a good reference but if you have family near 501 in South Carolina there is a complete yellow ls in a junkyard in Dillon SC. I want to go salvage stuff off but I am about an hour and a half from it. Unfortunately I dont know the name of the junkyard... I just happen to be driving by it when I went to Myrtle Beach.

Either way I get heavy discounts at the dealer for being in the automotive field and going to school so I will stop by the stealership ASAP(probably tomorrow, if not monday then) and see how much it would cost me, it may be easier to work out something using my discount.

 

On the front of the motor underneath towards driver side check all groundstraps are on...there is a small one that if so happens to be forgotton then the coils are not grounded..stupid mistake.thats what happened on Blown4bangers(cameron) car..as soon as i hooked up the ground strap fired right up

 

dude. tht same thing happend to me... wierd... but my ac compressor wasnt working and they blamed it on tht problem. replaced the fuse box.

 

Yeah this sux ass. I really cant afford this right now since i just got diagnosed with savere(sp? sorry im drunk right now) sleep apnea. I wake up every 2 minutes(30 times an hour).. so i gotta pay for all these sleep studies and this stupid fukin machine. At least my car and i have something in common, we're both boosted... heh.. Today just kinda came crashing down on me and now i gotta fork out another 400 dollars for a fuse box that no one touched. My 2nd car got towed from the front of my own house last friday, and my bike has a flat back tire too. i feel like i cant get a fukin break with my vehicles... Any and all help is extremly appreciated. Please let me know by monday if anyone could find a fusebox for less then $204. Thanks guys!

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-...Q5fAccessories

really, thats all u need.

 

good link, they also have a FE5 sway bar with bushings for 35+shipping.

 

Ive purchased from Morad before, they are a good company imo.

 

They do have a yellow coupe trunk advertised as a sedan trunk... *thumbsdown*

 

IT STARTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Goin to pick it up right now but i dont think i can drive it just yet. I want to break it in just right and have read quite a few different takes on breaking in a high hp engine.

So far i have heard the following:

Break in option 1:

Start with Reg. oil, idle for 20 mins, change oil and filter. Drive for 100mi then change oil and filter again. Drive for 500mi. Change to synthetic and drive for 2k miles then your break in is over. change oil now on normal change schedule.

My question with this option is, can i go under boost when switching to synthetic(after first 600mi) for that 2000mi period or must i stay out of boost?

Break in option 2:

Start with regular oil, drive for 100mi. Change oil and filter and drive for 500mi. Change oil and filter then drive another 500mi. After 1k miles, switch to synthetic and tune car under boost. After car has been tuned, change one last time and start on a normal change schedule.

If anyone has a better idea throw it out because i just got laid off today and im going to be putting these miles on it this week. If i go with option 1, i gotta change the oil at the dealer before i take it home, so i need to know if thats the best route to go. Thanks for all your help!

 

option 2 is what id do, but no need to change filter so often unless u change the type of oil ur using, the filter wont be that dirty from 500 miles

 

So what happened that it started you left that part out? Did you get the new fuse box?

 

Yeah, the lead inside the Ign. A 10amp fuse was split open and wasnt giving power to other functions of the car so it wasnt starting. Caused a lot of issues besides just no spark.

No check engine lights or anything, just having a clutch issue because i lost the pin for the slave cyl. so i gotta pick one up tomorrow at the dealer. I was supposed to do that today but i was too hung over.

Ill post up my build thread shortly.

P.S. If anyone was curious to know how the Exedy Stage 2 clutch works, its ******* STIFF! I love how it engages though, real quick. Took a couple runs to get used to it.

 

Sweet! Glad to hear it started!

 

vids or u didnt build it

 

I would personally drive on it and break it in a few thousand miles but that's just me.

You probably don't commute very far so it takes longer I know. I put 60-80 mi a day on mine.

 

lawl...ive been putting 150 a day on mine...took no time for the tranny and engine mount to break in

 

Thanks man.

Soon my friend.

Im still working out all the kinks. Today i found out that i was completely missing a wire from the alternator to the starter. I somehow must have lost it in the process of moving my car from my dads to my house but thats all good now. No check engine light after multiple starts. Its just a bitch now to get her started. Warm or cold, you have to hold the gas in about 3/4 way and she will start after about 5 attempts. We figured it might be the 1.5+yr old gas thats in the tank, or dirty injectors so we threw in injector cleaner and filled the tank up with 93oct. Shes still being a bitch to start so we think its the SMT6(although i havent run a full tank of gas through yet). It was sitting off for 1.5yrs without a connection to the battery. It had to have lost the tune after that long so im going to remove it tomorrow and see how she starts up. So far, she's got 10 miles on her.

 

would you recommend that stage 2 clutch for a daily where you might see rush hour traffic? you mentioned it was pretty stiff so I'm assuming theres not alot of slip you can give it?

 

I would say its just a tad stiffer then the stock SS/SC clutch. You can slip it a bit but not a whole lot. It would suck in massive traffic though. Ill update you on it after about 500mi when its broken in. It should get a little better.


Forgot to mention last night we also did a compression check, and checked the plugs. Plugs were black the test came up 150 for cyl 1, and 140's for cyl 2-4.