I am gonna be heading to the dyno with my new 60#ers and the tuner isnt all that familiar with the LE5 or 4 cylinders in general so I was hoping for some hp tuners tips to allow less time on the dyno when I go.

I have the hahn racecraft turbo system which comes with a return fuel system and a fuel pressure regulator if that helps. What should all the settings be to make these 60#er's work well for all seasons?

 

bump, no tips?

 

hit up the hpt forums

 

yeah i just thought alot of people here tuned for 60's in the ss/sc.

 

we do.

 

well is there any special formula that seems to work well in the ecotec when tuning for such big injectors? immainly worried about the idle quality with this size.

 

I think that the main problem you are getting with getting help, is that this is the kinda question where I think, "where the hell do i start?". It would take me an hour to explain everything that took me hundreds of hours to learn just to get you in the neighborhood of thinking you know what to do. A more specific question, I could help with. I will do a how to at some point though...

 

well an experienced tuner is doing the tune but i just wanted to see if there was a for sure trick to getting it to work well with the ecotec.

 

Many. In short, the IFRs are flatlined as are the offsets. The offsets still change with voltage, but not by kPa vac anyomre. What numbers to put in there depends on a number of factors, such as injector flow rates, base psi, etc. Unless you are going to have IDC problems, I would set the base pressure low enough to keep your injector PW at idle at about 1.2ms or so, to help avoid all the issues that most have with the 60s and low PWs.

There is a START. lol

 

cool thanks. I guess im too new to all this tuning stuff that there is too much gray area for help without being there to tune it. I hope my guy knows what he is doing on the 24th.

 

Make sure he gets with me too...your tuner is a cool guy, I enjoy working with him.

 

i was wondering...would the 60's overwork a 2.4 without a return style fuel system?

 

It wouldn't really benefit you, unless you are seeing problems with high duty cycles. If you are FI and running out of fuel up top, they would benefit you. Otherwise there is no need, and they will be way more trouble than they will be worth. The only good news is that with a 2.4, your PWs won't be quite as low as our 2.0s, but the difference won't be that huge.

 

Definately man. Hopefully we find out why im not getting 13psi once the new downpipe goes on then setting up the 60's will be fun.

 

There may be enough latitude in tuning to enable the 60's without the return style system, but one of the advantages of our 2.4 TurboSystem is the adjustable return fuel system. The ability to reduce the idle fuel pressure really makes it a snap to move to 60's. It's the same setup we've used on our very stout Solstice 2.4 that's put down 380 WHP on a stock 2.4!

 

thats not exactly true tho, right? ...correct me if im wrong...
head work, thick headgasket, 9.1:1 compression, values, springs, etc. != stock

 

maybe he ment stock bottom end

 

Indeed I did, sorry for the confusion. In this case, the only exception would be the valvesprings and headstuds. No head work, stock head gasket, stock valves/cams, stock pistons/rods/crank. Head's been off, but engine's never been out of the car.

The car is STILL being thrashed regularly, now in cross-country trips and autocross! What an amazing engine.

 

my bad. I took away from this post that soul food was using the "high boost system".
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...84/#post603385

sorry, bill.. not picking a fight here, but more than a few people on this forum use the "hahn does it" excuse for thinking they can boost 20psi with a completely factory stock LE5 engine with an ebay kit and bubble gum.

 

That's funny right there, I don't care who you are.

BTW, my how to is now updated for return fuel system. Click link in sig.

 

Oh, it's all good...I enjoy clarifications. Reality rules!

From what you are saying, it appears we've created a subclass of cheerbois for the LE5. I did not know that! I'll keep it as real as possible from now on to avoid misleading the masses

But on the plus side...these LE5's are truly exceptional internally, and that's what separates them mightily from their lowly L61 predecessors. For those new to the convo, LE5 (2.4 Ecotec) boasts forged con rods, coated pistons, floating wrist pins, oil-coooling piston sprayers...it's amazingly robust, and that's why they can take such a lickin'!

No offense, L61'ers...you just didn't get the gifts enjoyed by LE5 and LSJ! The powdered-metal L61 con rods and garden-variety pistons are good up to about 250 WHP maximum before they get hinky, whereas LE5 and LSJ bottom ends can go 400 WHP safely.